ALGERIAN FLINTLOCK LONG GUN

rickystl · 13th February 2016, 08:42 PM

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rickystl · 13th February 2016, 08:44 PM

AND MORE PICS:

rickystl · 13th February 2016, 08:47 PM

STILL MORE:

rickystl · 13th February 2016, 08:48 PM

TWO MORE:

rickystl · 13th February 2016, 09:16 PM

Well, I was able to get the lock back together and in working order. The mainspring is still good. Two problems: 1. The threads on the hammer screw are partially stripped. And possibly the threads in the hole of the tumbler. The hammer screw not only holds the hammer on, but also holds the tumbler firm against the inside of the lockplate. So the tumbler may have to be drilled out and new re-threaded with a new hammer screw. 2. The upper half of the hammer is bent. So it won't hit the frizzen correctly. So the hammer will have to be heated and bent to correct this. You can see this in the photos. The flint shown in the photo has an uneven flat bottom, so it makes the bent hammer look exagerated in the photo. But you see the problem.

A pic of an old, broken Algerian stock from my parts bin. I can use the brass butt plate off this one to restore the other.

This gun will take a bit more work then I expected. DARN.

We'll see how it turns out. And I'll re-post.
Rick

archaeologist · 13th February 2016, 09:31 PM

Rikystyl,
Fun project and I may ask for some advice on my own, but first I wanted to raise a question for all. I haven't yet read enough of the forum to know how much it is discussed.

When you do an extensive restoration like this, how do you document it for the next owner? (None of us lasts as long as the guns can.) So it doesn't become a misleading piece of evidence for studying these things.

Cheers,
John

rickystl · 14th February 2016, 05:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by archaeologist

Rikystyl,
Fun project and I may ask for some advice on my own, but first I wanted to raise a question for all. I haven't yet read enough of the forum to know how much it is discussed.

When you do an extensive restoration like this, how do you document it for the next owner? (None of us lasts as long as the guns can.) So it doesn't become a misleading piece of evidence for studying these things.

Cheers,
John

Hi John.

What a great question. In my case, each of my guns has a number and a corresponding page number I keep in a ring binder. This makes it easier to update when changes occur or new information is found. I list the general I.D. of the gun, area and approximate period of manufacture, and any restoration, alterations, etc. that have been done. And a realistic "street" value. I do the same with accessories such as powder horns/flasks, etc.
That way, should something happen to me, or otherwise have to sell the collection, there is accurate documentation on each piece, with an approximate value.
I believe this is especially important to do with Ethno firearms. I have found that most of the Dealers and Collectors of antique guns - especially in the USA - while having a vast knowledge of American and European guns, have little if any knowledge of these Ethno guns. There is simply not the volumn of collectors for these guns. Hope this helps.
Rick.

stenoyab · 13th February 2016, 10:14 PM

Hi Rick,
In the morning I will photograph one I have thats almost its twin, except it has a native made Flintlock lock (complete with a safety catch).

It has almost identical wire barrel bands like yours, so I would not rush to replace them with brass as the wire may well be the correct bands.

Also the butt doesn't have a brass end cap, instead it has a wood cap made in a different type of wood to the rest of the stock. Looking at yours I would suggest yours would also have had this extra wood end cap rather than brass (it appears someone had tried to glue and use dowels to re-affix it and it has then been lost on yours).

Jeff

estcrh · 14th February 2016, 02:19 AM

Rick, really great photos as usual, thanks.

rickystl · 14th February 2016, 05:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stenoyab

Hi Rick,
In the morning I will photograph one I have thats almost its twin, except it has a native made Flintlock lock (complete with a safety catch).

It has almost identical wire barrel bands like yours, so I would not rush to replace them with brass as the wire may well be the correct bands.

Also the butt doesn't have a brass end cap, instead it has a wood cap made in a different type of wood to the rest of the stock. Looking at yours I would suggest yours would also have had this extra wood end cap rather than brass (it appears someone had tried to glue and use dowels to re-affix it and it has then been lost on yours).

Jeff

Hi Jeff.
Thanks for your comments. You are so right about the extension on the butt stock made with different wood. That is basically what I plan on doing, then adding the brass plate. And maybe a thin piece of camel bone between the two wood pieces LOL

Here is a pic of the butt stock on my shooter showing the different wood. I've also seen bone used for this.
Rick.

13th February 2016, 08:42 PM	#1
rickystl Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: St. Louis, MO area. Posts: 1,633	MORE PICS: Attached Images

13th February 2016, 08:44 PM	#2
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13th February 2016, 08:47 PM	#3
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13th February 2016, 08:48 PM	#4
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13th February 2016, 09:16 PM	#5
rickystl Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: St. Louis, MO area. Posts: 1,633	Well, I was able to get the lock back together and in working order. The mainspring is still good. Two problems: 1. The threads on the hammer screw are partially stripped. And possibly the threads in the hole of the tumbler. The hammer screw not only holds the hammer on, but also holds the tumbler firm against the inside of the lockplate. So the tumbler may have to be drilled out and new re-threaded with a new hammer screw. 2. The upper half of the hammer is bent. So it won't hit the frizzen correctly. So the hammer will have to be heated and bent to correct this. You can see this in the photos. The flint shown in the photo has an uneven flat bottom, so it makes the bent hammer look exagerated in the photo. But you see the problem. A pic of an old, broken Algerian stock from my parts bin. I can use the brass butt plate off this one to restore the other. This gun will take a bit more work then I expected. DARN. We'll see how it turns out. And I'll re-post. Rick Attached Images

13th February 2016, 09:31 PM	#6
archaeologist Member Join Date: Aug 2013 Posts: 3	restoration documentation Rikystyl, Fun project and I may ask for some advice on my own, but first I wanted to raise a question for all. I haven't yet read enough of the forum to know how much it is discussed. When you do an extensive restoration like this, how do you document it for the next owner? (None of us lasts as long as the guns can.) So it doesn't become a misleading piece of evidence for studying these things. Cheers, John

13th February 2016, 10:14 PM	#8
stenoyab Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 43	Hi Rick, In the morning I will photograph one I have thats almost its twin, except it has a native made Flintlock lock (complete with a safety catch). It has almost identical wire barrel bands like yours, so I would not rush to replace them with brass as the wire may well be the correct bands. Also the butt doesn't have a brass end cap, instead it has a wood cap made in a different type of wood to the rest of the stock. Looking at yours I would suggest yours would also have had this extra wood end cap rather than brass (it appears someone had tried to glue and use dowels to re-affix it and it has then been lost on yours). Jeff

14th February 2016, 02:19 AM	#9
estcrh Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: USA Posts: 1,492	Rick, really great photos as usual, thanks.