Blunderbuss for comments

Norman McCormick · 29th July 2015, 07:28 PM

Hi Fernando,
You could try these people http://www.blackleyandson.com If they don't have a part to fit they will make it for you. Really nice gun you have there

My Regards,
Norman.

fernando · 29th July 2015, 08:01 PM

Thank you Marcus.
What you suggest is also under consideration.
But as i said, i have to check the frizzen toe (cam) although is the spring that looks like being in a too low position, if i compare it with others.

Thank you Norman,
Very good link indeed ... and close from here; went straigh to my favorites index, for whenever i need it

.

Marcus den toom · 29th July 2015, 08:41 PM

Hi Nando,

The spring does look fine considering the overall time period of this piece. After the first half of the 18th century the frizzen spring became less wide as far as i know.

attached is a tower lock plate with the frizzen spring and firm action on the frizzen.

Fernando K · 29th July 2015, 11:28 PM

Hello

Just let me know if this letter crowned above the royal crown is a V or W. Also, I wonder if this placed the "broad arrow"

Affectionately. Fernando K

fernando · 4th August 2015, 07:52 PM

Pondering the odds, we thought it was better (safer) to increase the frizzen toe than meddling with the spring.The result is not brilliant, but works. It was necessary to apply some heat to the screw, by the inside, to undo it. It's visible the toe is now a bit long, evidence that the spring is also a bit 'closed'.
The graft of the forend splinter is rather satisfactory, i would say.

.

Ken Maddock · 4th August 2015, 09:02 PM

Hi
The wood graft is very good and a fantastic match
Was this all just staining wood to match or have you any secrets you would like to share

The toe in my opinion is a bit sharp and could be filed down a bit
Then I would take the obvious blue/black colour away with fine wire wool and then rust the metal back down
I do accelerated rusting by dipping the metal when hot into a nitric acid copper sulphate solution
I will be doing this process in a few weeks time and I will share a set of images
I find the problem in doing this work is always difficult as your eye is drawn to where the work was done and you can' t be objective
Best regards
Ken

Shakethetrees · 5th August 2015, 05:42 AM

For rusting iron, on old gunsmith convinced me to use common household bleach. Much easier to obtain than nitric and other chemicals.

Remove the frizzen and dab it on once a day or so and leave it in a damp area if possible. Don't be in a hurry! In a few days you will see results. But, don't stop now, continue dabbing bleach on. Try to get it in an irregular pattern, as if the rust is too even it will look unnatural.

If you stop treatment too soon the nascent rust will slough off, leaving clean metal. It has to stick!

Once you are convinced it is holding well, put the part in baking soda for a few days to begin neutralizing the rust.

Next, boil some water and drop the part in for fifteen or twenty minutes. This won't hurt any temper or other heat treating.

Remove it and dry it well, oil it, and remount. The active red rust will be converted to black iron oxide. And, any old patina will not be harmed by this.

I've done this and the results are foolproof, if you follow these directions closely.

fernando · 5th August 2015, 06:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ken Maddock

Hi
The wood graft is very good and a fantastic match
Was this all just staining wood to match or have you any secrets you would like to share ...The toe in my opinion is a bit sharp and could be filed down a bit...

No secrets at all; i don't have such capacity.
I picked it from the stock maker with a recomendation to apply some wax. I have done that but, the result was null. Then i used some walnut tint/wax i was once given by a fellow collector that does some restore works. The result was the colour it gained when i took the above pictures, before polishing. I waited for a couple hours and noticed that the tint texture was too dense and not inviting the brush procedure. And so it happened; instead of achieving some shine, it lost some of the tint, the tone becoming a little lighter. I then applied again some home wax, brushed it and gave it a little mineral oil.
As i said, the toe has to be that long in order to catch the spring tension; if i file it, it looses all the needed effect.

29th July 2015, 08:41 PM	#3
Marcus den toom Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Netherlands Posts: 541	Hi Nando, The spring does look fine considering the overall time period of this piece. After the first half of the 18th century the frizzen spring became less wide as far as i know. attached is a tower lock plate with the frizzen spring and firm action on the frizzen. Attached Images

4th August 2015, 07:52 PM	#5
fernando (deceased) Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Portugal Posts: 9,694	Pondering the odds, we thought it was better (safer) to increase the frizzen toe than meddling with the spring.The result is not brilliant, but works. It was necessary to apply some heat to the screw, by the inside, to undo it. It's visible the toe is now a bit long, evidence that the spring is also a bit 'closed'. The graft of the forend splinter is rather satisfactory, i would say. . Attached Images

29th July 2015, 07:28 PM	#1
Norman McCormick Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 1,646	Hi Fernando, You could try these people http://www.blackleyandson.com If they don't have a part to fit they will make it for you. Really nice gun you have there My Regards, Norman.

29th July 2015, 08:01 PM	#2
fernando (deceased) Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Portugal Posts: 9,694	Thank you Marcus. What you suggest is also under consideration. But as i said, i have to check the frizzen toe (cam) although is the spring that looks like being in a too low position, if i compare it with others. Thank you Norman, Very good link indeed ... and close from here; went straigh to my favorites index, for whenever i need it .

29th July 2015, 11:28 PM	#4
Fernando K Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Posts: 672	Hello Just let me know if this letter crowned above the royal crown is a V or W. Also, I wonder if this placed the "broad arrow" Affectionately. Fernando K

4th August 2015, 09:02 PM	#6
Ken Maddock Member Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Ireland Posts: 104	Hi The wood graft is very good and a fantastic match Was this all just staining wood to match or have you any secrets you would like to share The toe in my opinion is a bit sharp and could be filed down a bit Then I would take the obvious blue/black colour away with fine wire wool and then rust the metal back down I do accelerated rusting by dipping the metal when hot into a nitric acid copper sulphate solution I will be doing this process in a few weeks time and I will share a set of images I find the problem in doing this work is always difficult as your eye is drawn to where the work was done and you can' t be objective Best regards Ken

5th August 2015, 05:42 AM	#7
Shakethetrees Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Louisiana Posts: 363	For rusting iron, on old gunsmith convinced me to use common household bleach. Much easier to obtain than nitric and other chemicals. Remove the frizzen and dab it on once a day or so and leave it in a damp area if possible. Don't be in a hurry! In a few days you will see results. But, don't stop now, continue dabbing bleach on. Try to get it in an irregular pattern, as if the rust is too even it will look unnatural. If you stop treatment too soon the nascent rust will slough off, leaving clean metal. It has to stick! Once you are convinced it is holding well, put the part in baking soda for a few days to begin neutralizing the rust. Next, boil some water and drop the part in for fifteen or twenty minutes. This won't hurt any temper or other heat treating. Remove it and dry it well, oil it, and remount. The active red rust will be converted to black iron oxide. And, any old patina will not be harmed by this. I've done this and the results are foolproof, if you follow these directions closely.