Barong again!

Robert · 10th October 2014, 08:58 AM

As the scabbard on your example seems to have a raised central ridge I would say that making a new toe piece similar to the lower one shown in Vandoo's photo above would be a fair representation of how the original on yours would have looked. The mother of pearl carving would just be an extension of the simple line and floral pattern shown on the throat pieces you already have. The ferrules and what they were made of would have depended on how much the owner had to spend on dressing up the hilt. As your example has modest quality carving on the mother of pearl I doubt that the ferrules would have been very elaborate either so possibly three would suit this piece. Again, the wrap could have been made of a few different materials, but in this case I would guess that simple braided cotton fishing line might have been originally used and therefore would also serve as a proper replacement. Now, as far as your showing some of the work that you have done it would depend on what it is. We do have a section of the forum called "Ethnographic Miscellania" and depending on what it is you would like to post it might fit in there. Just read the ground rules posted at the top of the page and decide for yourself. The suggestions I posted on your barong are my own opinions and others here might not totally agree and give you other advice on how to proceed with your project.

Best,
Robert

Shakethetrees · 10th October 2014, 06:18 PM

A progress report: the grip has been removed and the scabbard throat repaired and the original MOP plaque remounted.

I used hide glue after a quick soak in hot water to elasticize the split. The clamp remained in place for about 24 hours. During the clamping, I blasted the A/C down to 65 degrees which lowered the humidity. This pulled any latent moisture from the wood and glue allowing it to dry thoroughly.

The plaque was trial fitted after a cleanup of the joint, glue applied and pressed in carefully.

Next I pulled the grip by carefully with a straight acetylene torch held a distance from the blade. As soon as the resin started to bubble, it was no problem loosening the blade and drawing it out.

An examination of the grip revealed that the string wrapping appears to be made of plant fiber, two strands wound together to the left. Two of these strands were then wound together to the right. This gives a loose, interwoven feel to the finished string. I figure I need about 200 inches of it to do a good wrap. I guess I'll have to make it myself, as I don't think anything like it is available commercially.

The ferrule is of thin nickel or Monel, with two hand filed grooves about a sixteenth of a inch from the edges. I looking for some of this material, as today's nickel silver that is commercially available is a different alloy from that used pre WWII. I'll have to go to my junk pile and cannibalize something!

More later.

Shakethetrees · 13th November 2014, 09:20 PM

Progress report:

A couple of new images.

I found some line that closely resembled the remaining foot of original fiber used. I figured I needed about 100 inches of twisted, two strand line to complete the wrap. I next waxed each length to make it more manageable and twisted them together by hand a few inches at a time. This gives a slightly inconsistent rate of twist for a closer match to the original.

Next I made a ferrule of some old white brass that I rolled to the correct thickness. The lines were filed in by eye and quickly giving them a certain randomness that the old one has.

While wrapping the grip the wax helped maintain a tightness and evenness. There is less of a tendency to unravel than un-waxed line would have.

Once the line was in place I put a dab of hide glue inside the ferrule to lock in the loose end. A good push against the edge of the table to seat everything into place, put it down, walk away for a day or so.

Next the blade tang was heated to a high red heat for about the first inch. It was plunged into the original resin full depth and propped up to cool off in correct alignment. I also made it a point to leave a bit of the line loose beneath the ferrule that I trapped in the liquid resin for added security.

Next, the scabbard break was cleaned of any dirt or gunk and hide glue applied. It was clamped and secured. A jig needed to be made due to the curving asymmetrical shape of the scabbard. Left overnight to dry, with the AC turned down to 65 degrees to pull out any ambient humidity.

Once dry I scraped a slight inconsistency from the backside and did a little artificial aging, using cigar ash and several different waxes.

Thanks to several images posted by members, I now know where I plan to go with the scabbard tip. Everything is glued in place, still needing a bit of carving.

Once I finish I will post some final images.

Any comments are welcome and encouraged!

Sajen · 14th November 2014, 05:50 PM

Hello Shakethetrees,

very good work until now! We both have a barong restauration project! Do you plan to colour the binding black? I think that it was originally black. And do you plan also to attach a MOP plate at the foot of scabbard? I ask because I think that there was one before it break away. Personally I would clean the wood of the scabbard carefully with very fine steel wool to get out the grain of the wood. I am curious to see the finished work.

Regards,
Detlef

Shakethetrees · 14th November 2014, 10:25 PM

Detlef,

Thank you for your comments!

The original color of the grip wrapping is very close to the replacement. It was some type of fiber that was just peeled away from a vine or long stem of some kind. I have about a foot of it left. I examined it under a microscope to make the replacement as close to it in size, color, technique as possible.

Once I cut out and carve the scabbard tip I will play around with the finish. Matching new wood and old can be quite tricky, but I might have a few tricks up my sleeve!

The last thing I plan on doing will be to make a M.O.P. tip overlay. Before I consider this I need to get the form right and determine the decorative engraving.

As luck would have it, the existing engraving is not very masterful, so I might be right in my league with that!

10th October 2014, 08:58 AM	#1
Robert EAAF Staff Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Centerville, Kansas Posts: 2,196	As the scabbard on your example seems to have a raised central ridge I would say that making a new toe piece similar to the lower one shown in Vandoo's photo above would be a fair representation of how the original on yours would have looked. The mother of pearl carving would just be an extension of the simple line and floral pattern shown on the throat pieces you already have. The ferrules and what they were made of would have depended on how much the owner had to spend on dressing up the hilt. As your example has modest quality carving on the mother of pearl I doubt that the ferrules would have been very elaborate either so possibly three would suit this piece. Again, the wrap could have been made of a few different materials, but in this case I would guess that simple braided cotton fishing line might have been originally used and therefore would also serve as a proper replacement. Now, as far as your showing some of the work that you have done it would depend on what it is. We do have a section of the forum called "Ethnographic Miscellania" and depending on what it is you would like to post it might fit in there. Just read the ground rules posted at the top of the page and decide for yourself. The suggestions I posted on your barong are my own opinions and others here might not totally agree and give you other advice on how to proceed with your project. Best, Robert Last edited by Robert; 10th October 2014 at 09:27 AM.

10th October 2014, 06:18 PM	#2
Shakethetrees Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Louisiana Posts: 363	A progress report: the grip has been removed and the scabbard throat repaired and the original MOP plaque remounted. I used hide glue after a quick soak in hot water to elasticize the split. The clamp remained in place for about 24 hours. During the clamping, I blasted the A/C down to 65 degrees which lowered the humidity. This pulled any latent moisture from the wood and glue allowing it to dry thoroughly. The plaque was trial fitted after a cleanup of the joint, glue applied and pressed in carefully. Next I pulled the grip by carefully with a straight acetylene torch held a distance from the blade. As soon as the resin started to bubble, it was no problem loosening the blade and drawing it out. An examination of the grip revealed that the string wrapping appears to be made of plant fiber, two strands wound together to the left. Two of these strands were then wound together to the right. This gives a loose, interwoven feel to the finished string. I figure I need about 200 inches of it to do a good wrap. I guess I'll have to make it myself, as I don't think anything like it is available commercially. The ferrule is of thin nickel or Monel, with two hand filed grooves about a sixteenth of a inch from the edges. I looking for some of this material, as today's nickel silver that is commercially available is a different alloy from that used pre WWII. I'll have to go to my junk pile and cannibalize something! More later. Attached Images

13th November 2014, 09:20 PM	#3
Shakethetrees Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Louisiana Posts: 363	Progress report: A couple of new images. I found some line that closely resembled the remaining foot of original fiber used. I figured I needed about 100 inches of twisted, two strand line to complete the wrap. I next waxed each length to make it more manageable and twisted them together by hand a few inches at a time. This gives a slightly inconsistent rate of twist for a closer match to the original. Next I made a ferrule of some old white brass that I rolled to the correct thickness. The lines were filed in by eye and quickly giving them a certain randomness that the old one has. While wrapping the grip the wax helped maintain a tightness and evenness. There is less of a tendency to unravel than un-waxed line would have. Once the line was in place I put a dab of hide glue inside the ferrule to lock in the loose end. A good push against the edge of the table to seat everything into place, put it down, walk away for a day or so. Next the blade tang was heated to a high red heat for about the first inch. It was plunged into the original resin full depth and propped up to cool off in correct alignment. I also made it a point to leave a bit of the line loose beneath the ferrule that I trapped in the liquid resin for added security. Next, the scabbard break was cleaned of any dirt or gunk and hide glue applied. It was clamped and secured. A jig needed to be made due to the curving asymmetrical shape of the scabbard. Left overnight to dry, with the AC turned down to 65 degrees to pull out any ambient humidity. Once dry I scraped a slight inconsistency from the backside and did a little artificial aging, using cigar ash and several different waxes. Thanks to several images posted by members, I now know where I plan to go with the scabbard tip. Everything is glued in place, still needing a bit of carving. Once I finish I will post some final images. Any comments are welcome and encouraged! Attached Images

14th November 2014, 05:50 PM	#4
Sajen Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Germany, Dortmund Posts: 9,164	Hello Shakethetrees, very good work until now! We both have a barong restauration project! Do you plan to colour the binding black? I think that it was originally black. And do you plan also to attach a MOP plate at the foot of scabbard? I ask because I think that there was one before it break away. Personally I would clean the wood of the scabbard carefully with very fine steel wool to get out the grain of the wood. I am curious to see the finished work. Regards, Detlef

14th November 2014, 10:25 PM	#5
Shakethetrees Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Louisiana Posts: 363	Detlef, Thank you for your comments! The original color of the grip wrapping is very close to the replacement. It was some type of fiber that was just peeled away from a vine or long stem of some kind. I have about a foot of it left. I examined it under a microscope to make the replacement as close to it in size, color, technique as possible. Once I cut out and carve the scabbard tip I will play around with the finish. Matching new wood and old can be quite tricky, but I might have a few tricks up my sleeve! The last thing I plan on doing will be to make a M.O.P. tip overlay. Before I consider this I need to get the form right and determine the decorative engraving. As luck would have it, the existing engraving is not very masterful, so I might be right in my league with that!