How to get new leather/hide old ?

Shakethetrees · 5th October 2014, 03:25 PM

Impossible.

I have been a professional restorer for over thirty years and have never been satisfied with any "trick" that claims to age leather.

So, the thing to do is to get some old leather and use it.

Get to know an antique furniture restorer/upholsterer. Leather covered chairs, sofas, etc. come in and the old covering is stripped away and disposed of.

Different projects have different requirements: grips on swords and knives call for very thin material. Scabbards, thicker.

Don't shy away from pieces that have cracking or shows that the surface has been distressed. It's hard to get a good piece of the right size no matter the condition. The distressing and cracking can work in your favor.

The only kinds to stay away from is that afflicted by what is called "red rot" where the leather turns to powder and crumbles with even minor handling, and the kind that has become so stiff and brittle that it can't be bent even gently. Don't waste your time with either.

The material used has to be able to withstand being manipulated. No neat's foot oils, lexol, Pecards leather cream or other "cure" will turn back the clock even a little. They even speed up its decline! Stay from them like the plague. If you must use them, use em on products that are still in current use, like shoes, belts, ladies' handbags, etc. but never on antique leather. Period.

If my diatribe has not caused any of you to hit the back button and your curiosity has been awakened, I will be glad to give some advanced advice and more tips on the subject.

Rick · 5th October 2014, 03:41 PM

Leather Therapy restorer and conditioner .
I don't really wish to contradict others' wisdom; but this is one hell of a good product .

Shakethetrees · 5th October 2014, 06:12 PM

It could be a great product for leather still in use, but all conditioners contain fatty acids or petroleum products that turn aggressive and hasten the decay. I have seen old stitching (cotton thread) break after application of some miracle product that makes claims of being scientifically formulated, etc., etc., etc.

In the last thirty plus years I have tried just about everything one time or another. All rubbish.

If the leather in question is still in use, that's another thing entirely.

Care for long term preservation is another matter entirely. And, with preservation, nothing is done to the object that can't be undone. You can't un-smear something that soaks into the body of the leather. Neutral waxes, like Renaissance Wax are the exception. They do not "feed" the leather, but lay on the surface.

Do the research. I have.

Sajen · 5th October 2014, 07:09 PM

Hello Shakethetrees,

I've used boot polish on some of my leather sheaths. The have get a nice look again. Was it a mistake? I think what is good for my shoes can't be wrong for the scabbards.

Regards,
Detlef

Shakethetrees · 5th October 2014, 08:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sajen

Hello Shakethetrees,

I've used boot polish on some of my leather sheaths. The have get a nice look again. Was it a mistake? I think what is good for my shoes can't be wrong for the scabbards.

Regards,
Detlef

No, boot polish and shoe polish are generally OK. They do not "feed" the leather, but sit in a layer on top. It's also a good protective coating to help the old leather resist deterioration from handling, etc.

Sajen · 5th October 2014, 08:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shakethetrees

No, boot polish and shoe polish are generally OK. They do not "feed" the leather, but sit in a layer on top. It's also a good protective coating to help the old leather resist deterioration from handling, etc.

Thank you, good news!

Ken Maddock · 6th October 2014, 08:18 AM

To age leather I do the following
Depending if scabbard or handle
Either way New hide is full of dye generally, I soak it in water to take as much of the dye out as possible, one or two days with lots of rinsing
Then I form the leather onto whatever former I am using for scabbard and stitch up
Then I use sand paper 200 grit or so to rough up the edges and then polish out the rough with 800 grit
Bend and crease scabbard lots, then use old engine oil and dirt off workshop floor and rub into scabbard,
Rip out some of stitches and it should have the old look

For handles more or less same except no creasing possible
I have had reasonable results with running a flame over the grips to get it nearly crispy but it can go shiny if chrome was used in the tanning

I work in a well stocked lab and have I tried lots of chemicals but none really improved on above

A crucial rule would be to make whatever you are doing perfectly as distressing is not an excuse for bad workmanship, this can be weird making a grip very carefully and getting it so smooth and then hammering it to bits
Have fun
Ken

blue lander · 6th October 2014, 06:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shakethetrees

No, boot polish and shoe polish are generally OK. They do not "feed" the leather, but sit in a layer on top. It's also a good protective coating to help the old leather resist deterioration from handling, etc.

What about something like Lexol? Only good for leather still in use? Would Lanolin be good for leather not still in use?

Shakethetrees · 7th October 2014, 12:51 AM

I was tiptoeing around the Lexol issue.

This was the exact stuff I used that first made me aware of the "feeding" problem!

A WWI Sam brown belt that needed a little TLC came my way. It was almost wearable, but I lexolled it following directions. Beginning with one end and working my way along, it seemed to be going OK.

When I went back to do a wipedown with a dry rag, all the stitching broke and I effectively now had a Sam Brown parts kit!

Attempt number two brought ruination to a chinstrap from a WWI American tin hat. No stitching, the leather just flaked away from the surface.

Attempt three (I'm a slow learner!) effectively took care of some old boots- the stitching self destructed, leaving a pile of leather fit for a shoemakers bench, and nothing more.

So, Lexol?

I wouldn't have it in my possession. The stuff should be made illegal.

5th October 2014, 03:25 PM	#1
Shakethetrees Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Louisiana Posts: 363	Impossible. I have been a professional restorer for over thirty years and have never been satisfied with any "trick" that claims to age leather. So, the thing to do is to get some old leather and use it. Get to know an antique furniture restorer/upholsterer. Leather covered chairs, sofas, etc. come in and the old covering is stripped away and disposed of. Different projects have different requirements: grips on swords and knives call for very thin material. Scabbards, thicker. Don't shy away from pieces that have cracking or shows that the surface has been distressed. It's hard to get a good piece of the right size no matter the condition. The distressing and cracking can work in your favor. The only kinds to stay away from is that afflicted by what is called "red rot" where the leather turns to powder and crumbles with even minor handling, and the kind that has become so stiff and brittle that it can't be bent even gently. Don't waste your time with either. The material used has to be able to withstand being manipulated. No neat's foot oils, lexol, Pecards leather cream or other "cure" will turn back the clock even a little. They even speed up its decline! Stay from them like the plague. If you must use them, use em on products that are still in current use, like shoes, belts, ladies' handbags, etc. but never on antique leather. Period. If my diatribe has not caused any of you to hit the back button and your curiosity has been awakened, I will be glad to give some advanced advice and more tips on the subject.

5th October 2014, 03:41 PM	#2
Rick Vikingsword Staff Join Date: Nov 2004 Posts: 6,347	Leather Therapy restorer and conditioner . I don't really wish to contradict others' wisdom; but this is one hell of a good product .

5th October 2014, 06:12 PM	#3
Shakethetrees Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Louisiana Posts: 363	It could be a great product for leather still in use, but all conditioners contain fatty acids or petroleum products that turn aggressive and hasten the decay. I have seen old stitching (cotton thread) break after application of some miracle product that makes claims of being scientifically formulated, etc., etc., etc. In the last thirty plus years I have tried just about everything one time or another. All rubbish. If the leather in question is still in use, that's another thing entirely. Care for long term preservation is another matter entirely. And, with preservation, nothing is done to the object that can't be undone. You can't un-smear something that soaks into the body of the leather. Neutral waxes, like Renaissance Wax are the exception. They do not "feed" the leather, but lay on the surface. Do the research. I have.

5th October 2014, 07:09 PM	#4
Sajen Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Germany, Dortmund Posts: 9,272	Hello Shakethetrees, I've used boot polish on some of my leather sheaths. The have get a nice look again. Was it a mistake? I think what is good for my shoes can't be wrong for the scabbards. Regards, Detlef

6th October 2014, 08:18 AM	#7
Ken Maddock Member Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Ireland Posts: 104	To age leather I do the following Depending if scabbard or handle Either way New hide is full of dye generally, I soak it in water to take as much of the dye out as possible, one or two days with lots of rinsing Then I form the leather onto whatever former I am using for scabbard and stitch up Then I use sand paper 200 grit or so to rough up the edges and then polish out the rough with 800 grit Bend and crease scabbard lots, then use old engine oil and dirt off workshop floor and rub into scabbard, Rip out some of stitches and it should have the old look For handles more or less same except no creasing possible I have had reasonable results with running a flame over the grips to get it nearly crispy but it can go shiny if chrome was used in the tanning I work in a well stocked lab and have I tried lots of chemicals but none really improved on above A crucial rule would be to make whatever you are doing perfectly as distressing is not an excuse for bad workmanship, this can be weird making a grip very carefully and getting it so smooth and then hammering it to bits Have fun Ken

7th October 2014, 12:51 AM	#9
Shakethetrees Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Louisiana Posts: 363	I was tiptoeing around the Lexol issue. This was the exact stuff I used that first made me aware of the "feeding" problem! A WWI Sam brown belt that needed a little TLC came my way. It was almost wearable, but I lexolled it following directions. Beginning with one end and working my way along, it seemed to be going OK. When I went back to do a wipedown with a dry rag, all the stitching broke and I effectively now had a Sam Brown parts kit! Attempt number two brought ruination to a chinstrap from a WWI American tin hat. No stitching, the leather just flaked away from the surface. Attempt three (I'm a slow learner!) effectively took care of some old boots- the stitching self destructed, leaving a pile of leather fit for a shoemakers bench, and nothing more. So, Lexol? I wouldn't have it in my possession. The stuff should be made illegal.