Agarwood oil for keris?

[David]

Originally Posted by A. G. Maisey

Actually, I sort of half agree with Ariel.

My usual treatment for a keris blade is a thorough drench with WD40, I allow that to dry off overnight, it leaves a very light deposit on the blade, then I paint the blade with sandalwood @ 45% + kenongo @ 5% + medicinal paraffin @ 50%, all these percentages are approximate. Then I wrap the blade in a plastic sleeve. Blades treated in this way will remain protected for years without further attention.

However, if I were to ignore tradition and were to be charged with providing the best protection possible, I would use a high quality modern gun oil + controlled humidity and temperature + storage on glass or perhaps perspex.

The thing about WD40 is that it penetrates:- it gets into the grain of the metal, into places that the heavier oils just don't reach, but sit in little gobs on top of the pore, I've seen this under a microscope, and often it seems that our heavier bodied oils provide their protection by sealing a pore by coagulation over its opening, but not by coating the actual surface of the indentation of the pore.

Absolutely Alan. I also use WD40 as an initial coat before applying scented oils after a restraining or any major cleaning of a blade.

[A. G. Maisey]

STT, what you say about wax and hot wax application is a given.

This technique and material is widely known and accepted in the areas of weaponry, or cutlery, collection where smooth or polished surfaces are involved, mostly the people who use a wax opt for something like Antiquax, there's another wax of similar quality, the name of which escapes me at the moment, that is very popular amongst American collectors.

Unquestionably what you describe is the very best protective coating for smooth and polished surfaces, but always combined with a professional environment.

However, we're talking about keris, where application of wax interferes with too much with what can be seen, and wax is incredibly difficult to satisfactorily remove from the typical surface of a keris and other tosan aji.

In a situation where an oil coating attracts dust, a brush down with mineral turps will remove both the dust and the oil very easily and quickly. But if you wrap the oil coated object with plastic, then store sensibly, dust never becomes a problem.

[ariel]

Originally Posted by David

Absolutely Alan. I also use WD40 as an initial coat before applying scented oils after a restraining or any major cleaning of a blade.

David,
I am so glad to see you lightening up.
Thank you, Alan, for allowing David to free his inner child:-)

[David]

Originally Posted by ariel

David,
I am so glad to see you lightening up.
Thank you, Alan, for allowing David to free his inner child:-)

Ariel, i am no more or less "lightened" after Alan's post than before. My original statement stands just as is i'm afraid and i have no idea what my "inner child" has to do with it. Yes, WD40 is very effective for practical purposes as i already conceded to you, however, you have walked into a conversation on the use of scented oils which are obviously intended to serve a more spiritual purpose in keris maintenance. You are, of course, welcome not to make any attempt at all to grasp concepts of the keris in context to the culture from which it originates. That is your choice. However, the fact still remains that your belief or understanding of these matters is still not necessary to validate these traditions for those that choose to follow them. Thanks for your helpful input though.

[ariel]

Originally Posted by David

Thanks for your helpful input though.

You are welcome!
Enjoy the original:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TPT3RFTpSUw

[kulbuntet]

Excellent oil, but really expensive in pure form. There are 3 basic types of Minyak Gaharu, the Indonesian, Indian and Cambodian. Last one is best IMO

[spiral]

WD40 is excellent for penetrating, cleaning & water displacement, it does not offer long term protection on its own.

Its mostly solvent...not oil....

Spiral