Kaskara Stuck In Scabbard

Mefidk · 30th April 2013, 03:09 PM

Ed - I sympathise with you. I have recently had a couple or three of kaskara arrive in this state.

Might I suggest that oil is your last resort (although I had to go there). The reason is that it will totally transform the colour of the scabbard. If it is rust then gentle tapping and working of the scabbard may loosen this. You have to be patient because any movement will start very small. Depending how old your scabbard is then the inside may be anything from wood to cardboard and this will affect how easy the process is, the softer the inner lining the more difficult it will be to brake it loose. Be careful of tugging down on the top part of the scabbard because if it moves and the sword is stuck in the bottom half does the scabbard will buckle in the middle.

If it does not work dry, then oiling with a syringe as Iain suggested is the next step, but the process then is the same.

If it's not rust then possibly someone has decided to protect the sword by coating it with grease before putting it in the scabbard - in this case the grease dries into the scabbard and forms a very effective glue as the scabbard dries. I have had two of these and both times I needed to soak the scabbard in oil to release the grease. Not all oil is good for this, use acid-free oil. I'm not sure about WD40 and leather. Its acid free but I don't trust it on leather.

Best of luck!

Edster · 30th April 2013, 09:51 PM

Thanks for the additional suggestions. Has anyone used the German military development, Ballistol, for the "oil" part? I've used it on leather as a conditioner and preservative as well as doing yeoman service as a metal lubricant. It just may be the answer to the proverbial maiden's prayer.

http://www.ballistol.com/

Mefidk · 1st May 2013, 04:38 AM

Sounds like it might be exactly what we are looking for - all purpose lubricant and protection for the antique gun and sword collector - never used it though. Thanks for the tip

Iain · 22nd May 2013, 01:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Edster

Thanks for the additional suggestions. Has anyone used the German military development, Ballistol, for the "oil" part? I've used it on leather as a conditioner and preservative as well as doing yeoman service as a metal lubricant. It just may be the answer to the proverbial maiden's prayer.

http://www.ballistol.com/

I decided to follow up on this and have ordered some. It's supposedly a good rust remover as well. I'll report back on how it works.

Edster · 25th May 2013, 12:54 AM

Tapping on the scabbard with a mallet released the "frozen" blade. It was pretty rusty but now working on it with oil. Will coat blade with Renaissance Wax before its reinserted.

Thanks again for all the advice.

Ed

Iain · 25th May 2013, 08:01 AM

Glad to hear you had success. Personally I store all my blades outside the scabbards for just this reason.

Just got my order of Ballistol in yesterday and will try it out on a few things today.

30th April 2013, 03:09 PM	#1
Mefidk Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Denmark Posts: 157	Ed - I sympathise with you. I have recently had a couple or three of kaskara arrive in this state. Might I suggest that oil is your last resort (although I had to go there). The reason is that it will totally transform the colour of the scabbard. If it is rust then gentle tapping and working of the scabbard may loosen this. You have to be patient because any movement will start very small. Depending how old your scabbard is then the inside may be anything from wood to cardboard and this will affect how easy the process is, the softer the inner lining the more difficult it will be to brake it loose. Be careful of tugging down on the top part of the scabbard because if it moves and the sword is stuck in the bottom half does the scabbard will buckle in the middle. If it does not work dry, then oiling with a syringe as Iain suggested is the next step, but the process then is the same. If it's not rust then possibly someone has decided to protect the sword by coating it with grease before putting it in the scabbard - in this case the grease dries into the scabbard and forms a very effective glue as the scabbard dries. I have had two of these and both times I needed to soak the scabbard in oil to release the grease. Not all oil is good for this, use acid-free oil. I'm not sure about WD40 and leather. Its acid free but I don't trust it on leather. Best of luck!

30th April 2013, 09:51 PM	#2
Edster Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Posts: 411	Thanks for the additional suggestions. Has anyone used the German military development, Ballistol, for the "oil" part? I've used it on leather as a conditioner and preservative as well as doing yeoman service as a metal lubricant. It just may be the answer to the proverbial maiden's prayer. http://www.ballistol.com/

1st May 2013, 04:38 AM	#3
Mefidk Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Denmark Posts: 157	Sounds like it might be exactly what we are looking for - all purpose lubricant and protection for the antique gun and sword collector - never used it though. Thanks for the tip

25th May 2013, 12:54 AM	#5
Edster Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Posts: 411	Tapping on the scabbard with a mallet released the "frozen" blade. It was pretty rusty but now working on it with oil. Will coat blade with Renaissance Wax before its reinserted. Thanks again for all the advice. Ed

25th May 2013, 08:01 AM	#6
Iain Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Olomouc Posts: 1,708	Glad to hear you had success. Personally I store all my blades outside the scabbards for just this reason. Just got my order of Ballistol in yesterday and will try it out on a few things today.