Removing Epoxy

Robert · 20th February 2013, 05:20 AM

Hello Spunjer, I've been watching this thread with great interest as I too have a piece that has been put together with epoxy and need the same help that you are looking for. As to the kris you are working on, I have one that the strap going to the asang-asang was actually nailed to the hilt. Do you think that this could be the same for yours?

Robert

A. G. Maisey · 20th February 2013, 07:02 AM

I've never worked on one of these Philippine pieces, however, a couple of things do occur to me.

Firstly I'd remove the covering on the hilt if this is possible, in order to ensure there was no pinning of either the tang or the support stirrups.

The second thought is this:- if those stirrups go up into the hilt and there is adhesive holding them too, it is entirely possible that the heat transfer through these much thinner pieces of metal is insufficient to heat the adhesive to the point where it will let go.

If you can get the metal hilt covering off it might be easier simply to cut away the wooden hilt inside the cover and replace it.

The tangs on the things I work on are very often bonded with rust, and then it becomes a matter of repeated heat treatments over days , or even weeks, and working the hilt back and forth under heat, Eventually they let go, but sometimes the rust is so bad it totally penetrates the tang and you need to replace that when you get it free.

kai · 22nd February 2013, 09:05 AM

Hello Ron,

I'm with Alan: Try heating and completely cooling down the blade several times before giving up! I've also stuck a stubborn blade into dry ice (frozen carbon dioxide) for a larger temperature amplitude during the heating/cooling cycles.

Quote:

The tangs on the things I work on are very often bonded with rust, and then it becomes a matter of repeated heat treatments over days , or even weeks, and working the hilt back and forth under heat, Eventually they let go, but sometimes the rust is so bad it totally penetrates the tang and you need to replace that when you get it free.

I also agree that the first thing to do is to remove the sheet metal and textile from the grip (both modern and crappy looking IMNSHO

); I assume that you'll go for a decent grip braiding later on?

I don't think it will be necessary to cut the wooden grip for removing the tang though - just work patiently on it for several weeks if necessary...

Regards,
Kai

Spunjer · 23rd February 2013, 02:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kai

Hello Ron,

I also agree that the first thing to do is to remove the sheet metal and textile from the grip (both modern and crappy looking IMNSHO

); I assume that you'll go for a decent grip braiding later on?

Regards,
Kai

yes, i concur with you regarding the butt ugliness of the grip, but please don't tell my wife that. it was her old dish towel (secured by a gray duct tape) that i use to wrap the handle so i can have a good grip while i worked on it

there are no pins or nails securing the asang2x. Alan did make a good point:

Quote:

The second thought is this:- if those stirrups go up into the hilt and there is adhesive holding them too, it is entirely possible that the heat transfer through these much thinner pieces of metal is insufficient to heat the adhesive to the point where it will let go.

i'm exploring it from this angle at the moment; perhaps a micro butane torch aimed at the stirrups might help loosen the strips attached to it.

A. G. Maisey · 23rd February 2013, 07:04 PM

Spunger, if you feel confident to use a micro torch --- which in my experience can sometimes be more severe than a normal size torch --- why not use a normal torch with a nice bushy flame that will put heat into both the blade and the stirrups at the same time?

Are you able to get at the wood core of this hilt to cut it away?

I reckon that's the way I'd be going if I'd tried the normal route and it has failed, its an easy thing to replace a hilt core, and once the thing is together again you cannot see the core. To my mind this is no different to demounting a blade and remounting with fresh adhesive.

Tim Simmons · 23rd February 2013, 07:30 PM

I cannot really understand whats going on with the pictures you post. Perhaps some fine metal snips even big scissors might let you advance in a can opener way. So you can see whats what?

Spunjer · 24th February 2013, 03:15 PM

Yes!
placing the heat closer to the stirrups helped, i'm guessing, or perhaps it finally weakened after messing with it for more than a week!
it was a challenge removing this handle without altering anything. i actually thought about what you suggested, Tim, regarding snipping the stirrups awhile back, but that was going to be my last resort. anyway, posting pictures of the aftermath, for future reference.
i was able to scrape most of the epoxy inside the handle. i've enclosed pictures of it, and also the tools of the the trade (homemade shanks).
thank you all, esp. to you Alan!

kai · 22nd February 2013, 09:13 AM

Robert's suggestion is a good one:

Quote:

As to the kris you are working on, I have one that the strap going to the asang-asang was actually nailed to the hilt.

Yes, nails, or traditionally pins, wire, or some other binding may fasten the strips to the hilt.

I don't think that rust to the clamp strips is causing the problem but generous use of epoxy

may add to the problem.

Regards,
Kai

24th February 2013, 03:15 PM	#7
Spunjer Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Witness Protection Program Posts: 1,730	Yes! placing the heat closer to the stirrups helped, i'm guessing, or perhaps it finally weakened after messing with it for more than a week! it was a challenge removing this handle without altering anything. i actually thought about what you suggested, Tim, regarding snipping the stirrups awhile back, but that was going to be my last resort. anyway, posting pictures of the aftermath, for future reference. i was able to scrape most of the epoxy inside the handle. i've enclosed pictures of it, and also the tools of the the trade (homemade shanks). thank you all, esp. to you Alan! Attached Images

20th February 2013, 05:20 AM	#1
Robert EAAF Staff Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Centerville, Kansas Posts: 2,196	Hello Spunjer, I've been watching this thread with great interest as I too have a piece that has been put together with epoxy and need the same help that you are looking for. As to the kris you are working on, I have one that the strap going to the asang-asang was actually nailed to the hilt. Do you think that this could be the same for yours? Robert

20th February 2013, 07:02 AM	#2
A. G. Maisey Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 6,990	I've never worked on one of these Philippine pieces, however, a couple of things do occur to me. Firstly I'd remove the covering on the hilt if this is possible, in order to ensure there was no pinning of either the tang or the support stirrups. The second thought is this:- if those stirrups go up into the hilt and there is adhesive holding them too, it is entirely possible that the heat transfer through these much thinner pieces of metal is insufficient to heat the adhesive to the point where it will let go. If you can get the metal hilt covering off it might be easier simply to cut away the wooden hilt inside the cover and replace it. The tangs on the things I work on are very often bonded with rust, and then it becomes a matter of repeated heat treatments over days , or even weeks, and working the hilt back and forth under heat, Eventually they let go, but sometimes the rust is so bad it totally penetrates the tang and you need to replace that when you get it free.

23rd February 2013, 07:04 PM	#5
A. G. Maisey Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 6,990	Spunger, if you feel confident to use a micro torch --- which in my experience can sometimes be more severe than a normal size torch --- why not use a normal torch with a nice bushy flame that will put heat into both the blade and the stirrups at the same time? Are you able to get at the wood core of this hilt to cut it away? I reckon that's the way I'd be going if I'd tried the normal route and it has failed, its an easy thing to replace a hilt core, and once the thing is together again you cannot see the core. To my mind this is no different to demounting a blade and remounting with fresh adhesive.

23rd February 2013, 07:30 PM	#6
Tim Simmons Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: What is still UK Posts: 5,842	I cannot really understand whats going on with the pictures you post. Perhaps some fine metal snips even big scissors might let you advance in a can opener way. So you can see whats what?