Removing Epoxy

Martin Lubojacky · 16th February 2013, 10:23 PM

Hi Spunjer,
to remove epoxy adhesive you should use special dissolvents which vere made for this purpose. You will "google" whot is for disposal in your country, for sure. We have here "Epoclean Ceresit 51" or epoxy stripper "AX53" - allegedly suitable for wood surface. But I think you could only remove thin layers chemically...
Regards,
Martin

Spunjer · 17th February 2013, 07:25 AM

Thank you, Martin.
Went to our local hardware and found a spray can called Jasco's. Seems to strip the epoxy albeit very slowly.

Lee · 17th February 2013, 06:52 PM

I used MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) on my protobudiak. I would soak for 4 to 8 hours and then pick at the epoxy with a dissecting needle, freeing a few millimeters, then back to soaking. Very slow, but the silver and the iron tang and the wood appeared undamaged by the treatment.

TimW · 17th February 2013, 06:56 PM

WD40 also has the annoying tendency to creep under epoxy... Or if you have the possibility (depending on the object): heat entirely in the oven...

Spunjer · 18th February 2013, 04:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lee

I used MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) on my protobudiak. I would soak for 4 to 8 hours and then pick at the epoxy with a dissecting needle, freeing a few millimeters, then back to soaking. Very slow, but the silver and the iron tang and the wood appeared undamaged by the treatment.

thanks for that link, Lee. seems like i'm heading in the same direction; in that this is going to take days to come off. where did you get the dissecting needle? the nut picker is a tad too big...

tim, i might try the wd40 as well. as far as placing the whole sword in the oven, that's pretty much out of the picture; i do use the heat gun (rated to 700 deg), i can concentrate the heat on a particular area.

kahnjar1 · 18th February 2013, 05:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spunjer

thanks for that link, Lee. seems like i'm heading in the same direction; in that this is going to take days to come off. where did you get the dissecting needle? the nut picker is a tad too big...

tim, i might try the wd40 as well. as far as placing the whole sword in the oven, that's pretty much out of the picture; i do use the heat gun (rated to 700 deg), i can concentrate the heat on a particular area.

Hi Spunjer,
Not a dissolving agent, but you mention tools for picking. If you have a local dentist, try him/her for worn/broken tools. I did this with great results....all sorts of shapes and sizes....
Stu

A. G. Maisey · 18th February 2013, 11:08 AM

It would perhaps assist a recommendation if we had a pic of the object, however I have never failed to remove a blade from a hilt by playing heat directly on the blade. I've never used a heat gun, I've never used any sort of chemicals to attempt dissolving the bond. You don't need to get the metal that is in contact with the adhesive all that hot, certainly not hot enough to affect the heat treat, and it is a simple matter to restore the blade once you've got it free of the gunk. I mostly use a gas torch, but I've been doing this sort of stuff for a very long time, its probably safer to use a candle, which is what I use when I'm away from home.

The simplest solution is often the best in any situation, and there's nothing more simple than a bit of heat direct to the blade. Javanese and other Indonesian weapons mostly have their blades fixed to the hilts with adhesive, and that adhesive gives way at about the same temperature as epoxy resin. M'ranggis have been mounting and demounting blades in the way I describe for hundreds of years.

With the torch I clamp the blade about mid point in a vice, wrapped in newspaper of course so the vice doesn't mark the blade, then I play the torch over both sides of the blade and at the same time work the hilt back and forth with my other hand. You can make sure the blade doesn't get too hot by continually testing the heat in the blade a few inches from where you're playing the torch.

With a candle, I wrap cloth around the blade and grip it with one hand, grip the hilt with the other hand and hold the blade over the candle flame, alternating sides.

I've probably demounted a few hundred old blades in this way since I started in this game.

Spunjer · 19th February 2013, 04:07 AM

thanks for the head's up, Stu!

this particular blade is frustrating the crap out of me, Alan. when i etch most of my blades, i usually take it off the handle, that way it would be uniform throughout and i won't have to worry about the acid (vinegar) seeping where the blade and the handle meets.
i've been removing the blade the same way you've instructed, but for some reason, this one just won't budge. i will take some pictures of my progress so far, if that's what it's called, lol.

18th February 2013, 11:08 AM	#7
A. G. Maisey Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 6,989	It would perhaps assist a recommendation if we had a pic of the object, however I have never failed to remove a blade from a hilt by playing heat directly on the blade. I've never used a heat gun, I've never used any sort of chemicals to attempt dissolving the bond. You don't need to get the metal that is in contact with the adhesive all that hot, certainly not hot enough to affect the heat treat, and it is a simple matter to restore the blade once you've got it free of the gunk. I mostly use a gas torch, but I've been doing this sort of stuff for a very long time, its probably safer to use a candle, which is what I use when I'm away from home. The simplest solution is often the best in any situation, and there's nothing more simple than a bit of heat direct to the blade. Javanese and other Indonesian weapons mostly have their blades fixed to the hilts with adhesive, and that adhesive gives way at about the same temperature as epoxy resin. M'ranggis have been mounting and demounting blades in the way I describe for hundreds of years. With the torch I clamp the blade about mid point in a vice, wrapped in newspaper of course so the vice doesn't mark the blade, then I play the torch over both sides of the blade and at the same time work the hilt back and forth with my other hand. You can make sure the blade doesn't get too hot by continually testing the heat in the blade a few inches from where you're playing the torch. With a candle, I wrap cloth around the blade and grip it with one hand, grip the hilt with the other hand and hold the blade over the candle flame, alternating sides. I've probably demounted a few hundred old blades in this way since I started in this game. Last edited by A. G. Maisey; 18th February 2013 at 11:18 AM.

16th February 2013, 10:23 PM	#1
Martin Lubojacky Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: Czech Republic Posts: 843	Hi Spunjer, to remove epoxy adhesive you should use special dissolvents which vere made for this purpose. You will "google" whot is for disposal in your country, for sure. We have here "Epoclean Ceresit 51" or epoxy stripper "AX53" - allegedly suitable for wood surface. But I think you could only remove thin layers chemically... Regards, Martin

17th February 2013, 07:25 AM	#2
Spunjer Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Witness Protection Program Posts: 1,730	Thank you, Martin. Went to our local hardware and found a spray can called Jasco's. Seems to strip the epoxy albeit very slowly.

17th February 2013, 06:52 PM	#3
Lee EAAF Staff Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Upstate New York, USA Posts: 932	I used MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) on my protobudiak. I would soak for 4 to 8 hours and then pick at the epoxy with a dissecting needle, freeing a few millimeters, then back to soaking. Very slow, but the silver and the iron tang and the wood appeared undamaged by the treatment.

17th February 2013, 06:56 PM	#4
TimW Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Posts: 54	WD40 also has the annoying tendency to creep under epoxy... Or if you have the possibility (depending on the object): heat entirely in the oven...

19th February 2013, 04:07 AM	#8
Spunjer Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Witness Protection Program Posts: 1,730	thanks for the head's up, Stu! this particular blade is frustrating the crap out of me, Alan. when i etch most of my blades, i usually take it off the handle, that way it would be uniform throughout and i won't have to worry about the acid (vinegar) seeping where the blade and the handle meets. i've been removing the blade the same way you've instructed, but for some reason, this one just won't budge. i will take some pictures of my progress so far, if that's what it's called, lol.