![]() |
|
![]() |
#1 |
(deceased)
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Bavaria, Germany - the center of 15th and 16th century gunmaking
Posts: 4,310
|
![]()
Hi Dmitry and Ibrahiim,
It is true that microcrystalline way has established in museum conservation since at least 30 years. I too used it very often when working for museums. Regarding those pieces I treated with microcrystalline wax some 30 years ago I cannot see any negative outcome, they are still rust free today. I for my part, as I have often stated here, keep it with Dmitry sticking to the traditional conservation method by olive oil which has proved to preserve arms in arsenals for may hundreds of years. Best, Michael |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 | |
Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Buraimi Oman, on the border with the UAE
Posts: 4,408
|
![]() Quote:
Regards, Ibrahiim al Balooshi. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 607
|
![]()
Again, our posts have crossed, Michael.
I once tried to remove the Ren.Wax from a blade. And I couldn't do it. I tried Acetone, a couple of commercial solvents, and still the white patches of wax wouldn't come off. Apparently it's possible to remove with special solvents, under lab conditions. One might ask - why on Earth did you try to remove the wax? Answer - I had put a very thin layer of it on a perfectly shiny nicely etched blade, and the sheen became dull, as the wax creeped into the miniscule pores in the metal, which were not evident to the naked eye. Just my $.02.. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
(deceased)
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Bavaria, Germany - the center of 15th and 16th century gunmaking
Posts: 4,310
|
![]()
Hi Dmitry,
This of course is the one question almost never asked: how can that wax be removed? With the wax I used (it was mixed for me by a concervation company) I always succeeded rubbing it off with acetone. Sometimes I remember rubbing hard and trying several times, somtimes using a piece of wood soaked in acetone. To hear it does not work probably depends on the solvent originally used in your wax. Anyway, warming the metal should get to wax our of those pittings as well. If it does not, I suggest just ignoring it is there and applying a thick layer of olive oil above it. It should work. Sadly I am not experienced in chemistry myself. Best, Michael |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 | |
Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,060
|
![]() Quote:
best, |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 | |
(deceased)
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Bavaria, Germany - the center of 15th and 16th century gunmaking
Posts: 4,310
|
![]() Quote:
Right, Jasper, Provided that that was the solvent originally used I think ... That's exactly what I was trying to refer to anyway. Best, Michael |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Romania
Posts: 204
|
![]()
It may well preserved with silicone oil for weapons.
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#8 | |
Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 334
|
![]() Quote:
|
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#9 | |
(deceased)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Portugal
Posts: 9,694
|
![]() Quote:
![]() |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|