Olive oil as a conservant.

Matchlock · 5th April 2012, 08:50 PM

Hi Dmitry,

Our latest posts seem to have overlapped by seconds.

You are absolutely right about the effect of mellowing overcleaned surfaces.

Best,
Michael

Dmitry · 5th April 2012, 09:04 PM

Hi, Michael.
Yes, I just read your post.
Trouble is that I could only find refined extra virgin olive oil here. It's lighter in color than the unrefined one. I'll have to go into a different supermarket and see if they have the real stuff.

cannonmn · 6th April 2012, 12:37 PM

Many collectors in the USA and a number of the "experts" now voice a strong preference for applying wax to both edged weapons and firearms. Microcrystalline wax is preferred, one trade name is Renaissance Wax. Problem with oils that remain liquid is that they attract dust which then forms pinprick spots of corrosion as moisture is attracted. I have no knowledge of the use of olive oil, I don't think it is much used on arms here in USA.

I have a friend with an extensive "circa WWI" arms collection. He uses "bowling alley wax" on everything, wood, metal, etc. This is not microcrystalline wax but he prefers it, and it is readily-available (he says) and relatively cheap.

Dmitry · 6th April 2012, 02:13 PM

I am a strong opponent of applying wax.
Somehow these swords and guns made it to the 21st century after hundreds of years of not being waxed.

Ibrahiim al Balooshi · 6th April 2012, 05:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dmitry

I am a strong opponent of applying wax.
Somehow these swords and guns made it to the 21st century after hundreds of years of not being waxed.

Salaams Dmitry, Loads of museums use renaissance wax so it is a recommended method ... I use plum oil which is in fact sewing machine oil... great for weapons with moving parts and blades etc..and once a month part of the cleaning routine on my stuff.
Olive oil works. There are some exotic indian hair oils that also get a good result as well ! Obviously in a damp environment it is more difficult and I always think keeping weapons out of scabbards is better .... Hope you find some decent olive oil ya

Regards,
Ibrahiim al Balooshi.

Dmitry · 6th April 2012, 05:26 PM

I was somewhat partial to the wax, until I found out that it can be damaging to the object it's on. The moisture-repelling properties of a microcristalline wax, i.e. the Renaissance Wax have been overblown, it appears.
Here's an article from the Journal of the American Institute of Conservation, which casts serious doubts on the waxing.
http://cool.conservation-us.org/jaic...35-01-001.html
Imho, the conservation product ideally must be easily removable. The wax appears to be incredibly difficult to remove, if the need arises.

Matchlock · 6th April 2012, 05:28 PM

Hi Dmitry and Ibrahiim,

It is true that microcrystalline way has established in museum conservation since at least 30 years. I too used it very often when working for museums.

Regarding those pieces I treated with microcrystalline wax some 30 years ago I cannot see any negative outcome, they are still rust free today.

I for my part, as I have often stated here, keep it with Dmitry sticking to the traditional conservation method by olive oil which has proved to preserve arms in arsenals for may hundreds of years.

Best,
Michael

Ibrahiim al Balooshi · 6th April 2012, 05:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matchlock

Hi Dmitry and Ibrahiim,

It is true that microcrystalline way has established in museum conservation since at least 30 years. I too used it very often when working for museums.

Regarding those pieces I treated with microcrystalline wax some 30 years ago I cannot see any negative outcome, they are still rust free today.

I for my part, as I have often stated here, keep it with Dmitry sticking to the traditional conservation method by olive oil which has proved to preserve arms in arsenals for may hundreds of years.

Best,
Michael

Salaams Matchlock~I agree however (and I use olive oil here because it seems to work well enough on my 150 or so weapons and its cheap and quick) renaissance wax wasn't available decades ago...so I wonder what they used then> Goosegrease?... they certainly used that on their arrows to reduce drag and pierce armour..

Regards,
Ibrahiim al Balooshi.

Dmitry · 6th April 2012, 05:40 PM

Again, our posts have crossed, Michael.
I once tried to remove the Ren.Wax from a blade. And I couldn't do it. I tried Acetone, a couple of commercial solvents, and still the white patches of wax wouldn't come off. Apparently it's possible to remove with special solvents, under lab conditions.

One might ask - why on Earth did you try to remove the wax?
Answer - I had put a very thin layer of it on a perfectly shiny nicely etched blade, and the sheen became dull, as the wax creeped into the miniscule pores in the metal, which were not evident to the naked eye.

Just my $.02..

5th April 2012, 08:50 PM	#1
Matchlock (deceased) Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Bavaria, Germany - the center of 15th and 16th century gunmaking Posts: 4,310	Hi Dmitry, Our latest posts seem to have overlapped by seconds. You are absolutely right about the effect of mellowing overcleaned surfaces. Best, Michael

5th April 2012, 09:04 PM	#2
Dmitry Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Posts: 607	Hi, Michael. Yes, I just read your post. Trouble is that I could only find refined extra virgin olive oil here. It's lighter in color than the unrefined one. I'll have to go into a different supermarket and see if they have the real stuff.

6th April 2012, 12:37 PM	#3
cannonmn Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 161	Many collectors in the USA and a number of the "experts" now voice a strong preference for applying wax to both edged weapons and firearms. Microcrystalline wax is preferred, one trade name is Renaissance Wax. Problem with oils that remain liquid is that they attract dust which then forms pinprick spots of corrosion as moisture is attracted. I have no knowledge of the use of olive oil, I don't think it is much used on arms here in USA. I have a friend with an extensive "circa WWI" arms collection. He uses "bowling alley wax" on everything, wood, metal, etc. This is not microcrystalline wax but he prefers it, and it is readily-available (he says) and relatively cheap.

6th April 2012, 02:13 PM	#4
Dmitry Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Posts: 607	I am a strong opponent of applying wax. Somehow these swords and guns made it to the 21st century after hundreds of years of not being waxed.

6th April 2012, 05:26 PM	#6
Dmitry Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Posts: 607	I was somewhat partial to the wax, until I found out that it can be damaging to the object it's on. The moisture-repelling properties of a microcristalline wax, i.e. the Renaissance Wax have been overblown, it appears. Here's an article from the Journal of the American Institute of Conservation, which casts serious doubts on the waxing. http://cool.conservation-us.org/jaic...35-01-001.html Imho, the conservation product ideally must be easily removable. The wax appears to be incredibly difficult to remove, if the need arises.

6th April 2012, 05:28 PM	#7
Matchlock (deceased) Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Bavaria, Germany - the center of 15th and 16th century gunmaking Posts: 4,310	Hi Dmitry and Ibrahiim, It is true that microcrystalline way has established in museum conservation since at least 30 years. I too used it very often when working for museums. Regarding those pieces I treated with microcrystalline wax some 30 years ago I cannot see any negative outcome, they are still rust free today. I for my part, as I have often stated here, keep it with Dmitry sticking to the traditional conservation method by olive oil which has proved to preserve arms in arsenals for may hundreds of years. Best, Michael

6th April 2012, 05:40 PM	#9
Dmitry Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Posts: 607	Again, our posts have crossed, Michael. I once tried to remove the Ren.Wax from a blade. And I couldn't do it. I tried Acetone, a couple of commercial solvents, and still the white patches of wax wouldn't come off. Apparently it's possible to remove with special solvents, under lab conditions. One might ask - why on Earth did you try to remove the wax? Answer - I had put a very thin layer of it on a perfectly shiny nicely etched blade, and the sheen became dull, as the wax creeped into the miniscule pores in the metal, which were not evident to the naked eye. Just my $.02..