Ethnographic Arms & Armour
 

Go Back   Ethnographic Arms & Armour > Discussion Forums > European Armoury
FAQ Calendar Today's Posts Search

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 22nd October 2011, 02:35 AM   #1
Matchlock
(deceased)
 
Matchlock's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Bavaria, Germany - the center of 15th and 16th century gunmaking
Posts: 4,310
Default

Hi Chris,

As applying an oil layer on iron before starting any cleaning process has always been the basis of my philosophy, your suggestion sounds fair enough.
I prefer olive oil as it has been a) the historic oil care since at least the invention of firearms some 700 years ago, and b) in my experience provides the thickest and most consistent lubric layer.
Anyway, I would be eager to learn how you define 'patina' compared to 'rust'?
In other words: on what criteria is your method based?

And: why remove patina at all?!

Best,
Michael

Last edited by Matchlock; 22nd October 2011 at 02:45 AM.
Matchlock is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22nd October 2011, 03:27 AM   #2
laEspadaAncha
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 608
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matchlock
Hi Chris,

As applying an oil layer on iron before starting any cleaning process has always been the basis of my philosophy, your suggestion sounds fair enough.
I prefer olive oil as it has been a) the historic oil care since at least the invention of firearms some 700 years ago, and b) in my experience provides the thickest and most consistent lubric layer.
Anyway, I would be eager to learn how you define 'patina' compared to 'rust'?
In other words: on what criteria is your method based?

And: why remove patina at all?!

Best,
Michael

Hi Michael,

Given the form of patina varies from medium to medium, in the context of steel, I would consider 'patina' to be the stabilized, i.e., non-active rust (black/brown vs. the red/brown of active rust).

However, I never remove patina... at least not intentionally! The "try really, really hard" comment was meant tongue-in-cheek, as it would take a lot of pressure and elbow grease to remove stable patina with #0000 (which is why I consider it safe ).

I like olive oil as well, BTW. I think I revert to the 3-in-1 as much out of habit as for anything else, as I prefer like the "feel" of a thinner, lower viscosity liquid. Personal preference I guess...

Best Regards,

Chris
laEspadaAncha is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22nd October 2011, 03:56 PM   #3
Fernando K
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 671
Default

Estimado Matchlock:
Los tres métodos son inocuos para la superficie que no se ha oxidado, cualquiea sea su grado de pulimento: a espejo brillante, mas o menos mate. Actuan solamente donde hay óxido.
Donde se ha formado óxido, se ha sacado hierro para combinarlo con el oxígeno. Si después se elimina el óxido por medios mecanicos, aparece una superficie mas o menos oscura, donde se detectan las cavernas "picaduras", y las rayas que deja cualquier medio mecánico, que significa también alteracion de la superficie original, como ha sido, por otra parte, alterada por la formación de oxido.
No nos olvidamos que el oxido de hierro es un cuerpo duro, usado para pulir acero templado y su remoción mecánica implica una tarea invasiva y nunca se puede eliminar totalmente, salvo alteracion de la superficie.
Yo no tengo dudasrefiero uns superficie libre de oxido, aunque se pierda algo de su aspecto original, a una superficie con picaduras y rayas, que también significan pérdida visual.

Sinceramente, Fernando KDear Matchlock:
The three methods are safe for the surface has not rusted, cualquiea their degree of polish: mirror shine, more or less mate. Act only where there is rust.
Where has formed oxide, iron has been taken to combine with oxygen. If the oxide is then removed by mechanical means, there is a more or less dark area where the caves are found "tracks", and stripes that any mechanical stops, which also means alteration of the original surface, as has been, Moreover, altered by the formation of rust.
Let us not forget that the iron oxide is a hard body, used for grinding hardened steel and mechanical removal task involves invasive and can never be totally eliminated, but alteration of the surface.
I have no doubts: I prefer uns oxide-free surface, although they lose some of its original appearance to a surface with bites and scratches, which also means loss of vision.

Sincerely, Fernando K
Fernando K is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23rd October 2011, 07:57 AM   #4
A. G. Maisey
Member
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 7,043
Default

I have a great love of olive oil.

As a child I was washed with olive until I was 5 years old, because I suffered from severe eczema.

As an adult one of my favourite meals is olive oil and bread, accompanied by olives, cheese and a good shiraz.

My wife only uses new olive oil for cooking, and most of our food is pan fried or stir fried.

I am very fond of olive oil.

But not for my guns and knives.

Olive oil is mildly acidic, as is the case with all vegetable oils.

A quality gun oil is a far better choice for guns that are used, and microcrystalline wax such as Renaissance or Antiquax deserve serious consideration for guns and knives which are not used.
A. G. Maisey is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 03:46 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Posts are regarded as being copyrighted by their authors and the act of posting material is deemed to be a granting of an irrevocable nonexclusive license for display here.