De-rusting and etching Damascus gun barrel

RDGAC · 22nd April 2011, 07:20 PM

A quick update. I've just come away from a small experimental session with a fine steel pick, lubricated with a coating of common 3-in-one oil. The result? The rust is, it turns out, much softer than the steel (not surprisingly), meaning it can be picked out - it will take an awfully long time to do the entire barrel, but it can be done. The picture illustrates the difference; the circled area has clearly enjoyed a sort of topographical reversal, with the rust (formerly proud of the barrel's surface) now diminished sufficiently to be at least level with the walls of the pits it has made in the metal.

The second thing that I've determined is that this will take, almost literally, forever. But, if I'm careful, I should be able to avoid damaging sound metal. I think this might be the (extremely slow, painfully laborious) way forward, coupled perhaps with gentle use of 0000 steel wool and yet more lubrication. (Yes, I take the blame for rising fuel prices.)

ward · 23rd April 2011, 02:55 AM

the part you are missing is that etching is a acid and will eat rust just as well as iron. do not soak the piece in any oil yet. It will just screw up the etch. The only reason you completly sand a barrell down is so when you do the etch you get a complete mirror finish on it. the longest I have ever etched a piece was 17 days for a slow etch. A quick etch can be done in a few minutes

RDGAC · 23rd April 2011, 06:27 PM

Ward, I appreciate that acid should chomp through rust just as it will cause the appearance of the watered pattern by removing some of the softer iron. What I still worry about is whether the effect will be what I desire. To give you an idea of why, I discussed in an earlier thread the effect of Renaissance Metal De-Corroder on the watered steel of this barrel and various other objects. The results were varied. Rust went, but so did lustre, and I find myself unsure of whether repeating the process - bearing in mind that this stuff is, as far as I can tell, an aqueaous solution of hydro-oxycarboxylic acid - is a good idea.

Some pics, herewith, of the areas of this barrel I treated with this acidic solution. The pattern remains visible, one way or another, but in the tang area (which was subjected to the longest treatment) the shine has vanished from the steel. A consequence which, along with the low visibility of the pattern, I wish to avoid.

22nd April 2011, 07:20 PM	#1
RDGAC Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: York, UK Posts: 167	A quick update. I've just come away from a small experimental session with a fine steel pick, lubricated with a coating of common 3-in-one oil. The result? The rust is, it turns out, much softer than the steel (not surprisingly), meaning it can be picked out - it will take an awfully long time to do the entire barrel, but it can be done. The picture illustrates the difference; the circled area has clearly enjoyed a sort of topographical reversal, with the rust (formerly proud of the barrel's surface) now diminished sufficiently to be at least level with the walls of the pits it has made in the metal. The second thing that I've determined is that this will take, almost literally, forever. But, if I'm careful, I should be able to avoid damaging sound metal. I think this might be the (extremely slow, painfully laborious) way forward, coupled perhaps with gentle use of 0000 steel wool and yet more lubrication. (Yes, I take the blame for rising fuel prices.) Attached Images

23rd April 2011, 02:55 AM	#2
ward Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 637	etching the part you are missing is that etching is a acid and will eat rust just as well as iron. do not soak the piece in any oil yet. It will just screw up the etch. The only reason you completly sand a barrell down is so when you do the etch you get a complete mirror finish on it. the longest I have ever etched a piece was 17 days for a slow etch. A quick etch can be done in a few minutes

23rd April 2011, 06:27 PM	#3
RDGAC Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: York, UK Posts: 167	Ward, I appreciate that acid should chomp through rust just as it will cause the appearance of the watered pattern by removing some of the softer iron. What I still worry about is whether the effect will be what I desire. To give you an idea of why, I discussed in an earlier thread the effect of Renaissance Metal De-Corroder on the watered steel of this barrel and various other objects. The results were varied. Rust went, but so did lustre, and I find myself unsure of whether repeating the process - bearing in mind that this stuff is, as far as I can tell, an aqueaous solution of hydro-oxycarboxylic acid - is a good idea. Some pics, herewith, of the areas of this barrel I treated with this acidic solution. The pattern remains visible, one way or another, but in the tang area (which was subjected to the longest treatment) the shine has vanished from the steel. A consequence which, along with the low visibility of the pattern, I wish to avoid. Attached Images