![]() |
|
![]() |
#1 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Santa Barbara, California
Posts: 301
|
![]()
The Blade is one quarter of an inch thick at the hilt. Is it worth cleaning up? Would I use fine crocus cloth or some other thing to polish up the blade?
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
EAAF Staff
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Centerville, Kansas
Posts: 2,196
|
![]()
I agree with Spunjer. I would go ahead and clean it up and give it an etch just to see what happens.
Robert |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Santa Barbara, California
Posts: 301
|
![]()
So nice to know that this has a chance of being real, especially since I picked it up at a flea market nearby from some gentlemen who didn't have the faintest idea what it was, and wanted to sell me some brass daggers from Spain that are real tourist pieces at about twice as much as what this cost me. What would you clean it up with? Or can you please direct me to a thread that would tell me how I would go about the process?
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
EAAF Staff
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Centerville, Kansas
Posts: 2,196
|
![]()
This is from a very helpful post made by one of our forum members Steve Ferguson.
Here is the procedure that I use. Steve Please understand that there are as many methods to etch blades as there are people that do it. Do a search on etching and read what others have to say. Polish the blade by sanding with some very fine wet-or-dry sandpaper, starting with at least 400grit, then with 600, then as high as you want to go, up to 2000. Use Windex, or any brand window cleaner with ammonia to lubricate the sandpaper, and keep it from loading up. Try not to cut your fingers off. ![]() 1. Use acetone or denatured alcohol to degrease the blade. Both are flammable, so use good ventilation and follow the safety instructions on the can. 2. Saturate a rag or paper towel with warm vinegar or pineapple juice and rub it onto the blade. Put it on with a fully saturated rag, and wipe it on evenly. Do one side then the other, doing your best to cover the full side of the blade in one pass. Don’t let the solution run down into the grip. I use a plastic trough that is used to wet wallpaper that I bought at the local home improvements store to catch the drips. 3. When satisfied with the pattern, rinse with cold water. 4. Neutralize the acid by rubbing the blade with a thick mixture of baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) and water, or with ammonia, or window cleaner containing ammonia. 5. Rinse the blade in cold water. 6. Dry the blade thoroughly, and oil it well with mineral oil, or whatever you currently use to prevent rust. An alternative is to use ferric chloride. It works quicker and sometimes brings the pattern out better, but is potentially more dangerous to the blade. (this is the procedure that I use as it is much quicker and often provides more contrast) 1. After polishing as above, use acetone or denatured alcohol to degrease the blade. Both are flammable, so use good ventilation and follow the safety instructions on the can. 2. Mix one part Ferric Chloride, available in the US from Radio Shack as Printed circuit board etchant, with 3 or 4 parts distilled water. 3. Using rubber gloves saturate a rag or paper towel with the solution and rub it onto the blade. Put it on with a fully saturated rag, and wipe it on evenly. Do one side then the other, doing your best to cover the full side of the blade in one pass. Don’t let the solution run down into the grip. I use a plastic trough that is used to wet wallpaper that I bought at the local home improvements store to catch the drips. 4. When satisfied with the pattern, rinse with cold water. 5. Rub the blade with a rag or paper towel saturated with vinegar. I’ve read that this helps to stop the ferric chloride reaction. 6. Rinse with cold water. 7 Neutralize the acid by thoroughly rubbing the blade with ammonia, or window cleaner containing ammonia. 8. Rinse with cold water. 9 Dry the blade thoroughly, and oil it well with mineral oil, or whatever you currently use to prevent rust. Robert |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Santa Barbara, California
Posts: 301
|
![]()
Thank you so much; I started cleaning it up now. There are, unfortunately, some pretty deep scratches near the edge where it was probably put on a grinding stone. I'll do my best to take them out.
“Try not to cut your fingers off”; I love that. This Barung is wickedly sharp still. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
EAAF Staff
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Centerville, Kansas
Posts: 2,196
|
![]()
Yes, Steve does have a great sense of humor.
![]() Robert |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Santa Barbara, California
Posts: 301
|
![]()
so I went ahead with 600 grit, followed by 1000 grit for the edge, then edged it with vinegar. Result; nothing.
I then tried again with ferric chloride diluted 4 to 1, and behold! Either a temper line, or an inserted edge, I'm not sure which, but it's very very clear. Opinions, please? |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#8 | |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Inland Empire, Southern California USA
Posts: 160
|
![]() Quote:
![]() ~Stephen* |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|