18th Century Moro kris?

kai · 6th October 2010, 10:28 PM

Hello Detlef,

For a traditional repair job you will have to remove the binding; this example exhibits a fairly simple pattern but still I'd prefer to keep it despite some loose threads near the pommel.

Quite a few pommels are socketed with a seperate piece of wood (of lesser quality hidden by the grip bindings/decorations). Usually these are secured by a wooden/bamboo pin - this will be tough to remove though (without some moving of the bindings). Can you peek under the loose thread to verify wether grip and pommel are seperate?

If not, you could still saw off the pommel and craft a good fit when the new pommel arrives (the socket should be rectangular so that the pommel can't turn). It's not easy to get a good fit but certainly worth to spend some time on.

BTW, I'd definitely go for a diminutive pommel; good quality bunti would be great.

Regards,
Kai

Sajen · 6th October 2010, 10:48 PM

Hello Jose and Kai,

so far I can see is the grip made from one piece of wood and I think that it would be the best (like you both instigate) to cut the pommel and fix a new one and to coat this with a new silver band. I would like to keep the old binding. Of course have to look the new pommel daintily in old style.

Thank you both for your help,

Detlef

Battara · 7th October 2010, 12:32 AM

I now have more time to answer: I agree with Kai 100%. I would add that the cord wrap would need to have another recoating of black lacquer.

kai · 8th October 2010, 08:18 AM

Hello Detlef,

BTW, don't saw off the pommel until you receive the replacement hilt!

I'd suggest to ask the carver to prepare the pommel with a rectangular socket and its final depth would determine where to saw off the damaged pommel. It's much easier to file the extending stump into a "nut" exactly fitting a given socket than having to carve the socket...

Maybe it would be good to provide the carver with a cast so that the fit is going to be as close as possible?

Regards,
Kai

Sajen · 8th October 2010, 04:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kai

Hello Detlef,

BTW, don't saw off the pommel until you receive the replacement hilt!

I'd suggest to ask the carver to prepare the pommel with a rectangular socket and its final depth would determine where to saw off the damaged pommel. It's much easier to file the extending stump into a "nut" exactly fitting a given socket than having to carve the socket...

Maybe it would be good to provide the carver with a cast so that the fit is going to be as close as possible?

Regards,
Kai

Very good hint to let carve the pommel socket more big, thank you!

BTW, I have tried a first etch, not very successful, the comlete blade get darkened. Any advise?

Best,

Detlef

Sajen · 23rd April 2011, 12:11 PM

The first step of restoration is done. The sheath has get a new buntut, a new tip at the back side of the crosspiece and the missing piece of wood down under the crosspiece is now filled up again. Ok, the old patina is gone but since I want to have a complete sheath again there was no other way.
What do you think?

Atlantia · 23rd April 2011, 12:15 PM

First class work!! Well done, it looks great.

23rd April 2011, 12:11 PM	#6
Sajen Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Germany, Dortmund Posts: 9,422	The first step of restoration is done. The sheath has get a new buntut, a new tip at the back side of the crosspiece and the missing piece of wood down under the crosspiece is now filled up again. Ok, the old patina is gone but since I want to have a complete sheath again there was no other way. What do you think? Attached Images

6th October 2010, 10:28 PM	#1
kai Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Posts: 3,255	Hello Detlef, For a traditional repair job you will have to remove the binding; this example exhibits a fairly simple pattern but still I'd prefer to keep it despite some loose threads near the pommel. Quite a few pommels are socketed with a seperate piece of wood (of lesser quality hidden by the grip bindings/decorations). Usually these are secured by a wooden/bamboo pin - this will be tough to remove though (without some moving of the bindings). Can you peek under the loose thread to verify wether grip and pommel are seperate? If not, you could still saw off the pommel and craft a good fit when the new pommel arrives (the socket should be rectangular so that the pommel can't turn). It's not easy to get a good fit but certainly worth to spend some time on. BTW, I'd definitely go for a diminutive pommel; good quality bunti would be great. Regards, Kai

6th October 2010, 10:48 PM	#2
Sajen Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Germany, Dortmund Posts: 9,422	Hello Jose and Kai, so far I can see is the grip made from one piece of wood and I think that it would be the best (like you both instigate) to cut the pommel and fix a new one and to coat this with a new silver band. I would like to keep the old binding. Of course have to look the new pommel daintily in old style. Thank you both for your help, Detlef

7th October 2010, 12:32 AM	#3
Battara EAAF Staff Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Louisville, KY Posts: 7,346	I now have more time to answer: I agree with Kai 100%. I would add that the cord wrap would need to have another recoating of black lacquer.

8th October 2010, 08:18 AM	#4
kai Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Posts: 3,255	Hello Detlef, BTW, don't saw off the pommel until you receive the replacement hilt! I'd suggest to ask the carver to prepare the pommel with a rectangular socket and its final depth would determine where to saw off the damaged pommel. It's much easier to file the extending stump into a "nut" exactly fitting a given socket than having to carve the socket... Maybe it would be good to provide the carver with a cast so that the fit is going to be as close as possible? Regards, Kai

23rd April 2011, 12:15 PM	#7
Atlantia Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: The Sharp end Posts: 2,928	First class work!! Well done, it looks great.