Metal De-Corroder and its effects

[RDGAC]

Interesting to hear that, Rick; I've found that the stuff dries out far too quickly, when applied with a brush. Ten, maybe fifteen minutes between coats are the maximum I can get. Even at the end of that the solvent has almost entirely evaporated.

Atlantia: Yes, it's acidic. It's not too acidic, which seems to be its chief selling point; it's generally much gentler than your average acid when it comes to getting rid of corrosion, so much so that you can handle it without gloves.

The plan with this barrel is, as it stands, just to try and remove the heavy mottled rust present all over its length. I realise that it may prove to be even more unsightly if it is removed, only to leave behind deep pitting and unevenness upon the barrel surface, which is the main reason I'm proceeding cautiously. The loose stuff has already been removed; it took me nearly two months to get rid of it, in fact, the old-fashioned way. The breech end seemed a reasonably sensible test area since it's heavily rusted and the small areas visible indicate that it's lightly grained; those areas which have been shielded from moisture, further up the barrel, show off a very attractive watered pattern and thus I didn't want to ruin them inadvertently.

I have found that careful, light use of the Renaissance product called "Pre-Lim" can help restore the sheen of the metal, but since it's still abrasive (even if it's a very gentle abrasive) I'm not sure if I'd be happy using it on the watered barrel.Perhaps I'm just underestimating the durability of the pattern itself.

[Tim Simmons]

If the surface is badly rusted and removal has left a heavy etched surface then repolish and get a steel blackening chemical to restore the visual appeal. You could get advice from a "gunsmith" sporting shotgun maker, they must do lots of refurbishing jobs.

[Rick]

Originally Posted by RDGAC

Interesting to hear that, Rick; I've found that the stuff dries out far too quickly, when applied with a brush. Ten, maybe fifteen minutes between coats are the maximum I can get. Even at the end of that the solvent has almost entirely evaporated.

Atlantia: Yes, it's acidic. It's not too acidic, which seems to be its chief selling point; it's generally much gentler than your average acid when it comes to getting rid of corrosion, so much so that you can handle it without gloves.

The plan with this barrel is, as it stands, just to try and remove the heavy mottled rust present all over its length. I realise that it may prove to be even more unsightly if it is removed, only to leave behind deep pitting and unevenness upon the barrel surface, which is the main reason I'm proceeding cautiously. The loose stuff has already been removed; it took me nearly two months to get rid of it, in fact, the old-fashioned way. The breech end seemed a reasonably sensible test area since it's heavily rusted and the small areas visible indicate that it's lightly grained; those areas which have been shielded from moisture, further up the barrel, show off a very attractive watered pattern and thus I didn't want to ruin them inadvertently.

I have found that careful, light use of the Renaissance product called "Pre-Lim" can help restore the sheen of the metal, but since it's still abrasive (even if it's a very gentle abrasive) I'm not sure if I'd be happy using it on the watered barrel.Perhaps I'm just underestimating the durability of the pattern itself.

Yes, I had to refresh the areas about that often; a little picking and scrubbing then reapply .

I'm wondering if your barrel might benefit from a prolonged soak in Pineapple juice .

[Dmitry]

I bought a sample bottle of this stuff, and used it on a worthless blade. It removed the rust, and etched the steel to a dull, lifeless color, like the percussion cock and barrel on the photos above.
I put it away, and haven't used it again.

[Battara]

There is a difference between patina and rust. I would use this stuff sparingly and take off the rust but not the patina.

As far as the copper is concerned, make sure that what is in the solution is not copper or brass - the acid with steel probably creates an electrolysis with copper or brass, making the copper ions to migrate onto the steel, a natural result with many acid solutions.

Finally, I would suggest polishing and then adding a patina to the "lack luster" surfaces.

[Ian Knight]

I have used this product on a few swords but use with caution. I too was shocked the first time that I used it. It leaves a horrible dull grey surface.
Be prepared to do a bit of polishing after treatment. I use very fine carborundum paper, used wet, and then polish with Solvo.
I wouldn't use on a sword with faint etching because the polishing will wear it further. Neither would I use it on any sword with blueing or gilding. On a plain blade it is fine but go carefully with the treatment. I apply the liquid with a brush, leave for half an hour and then wash in water using a brass brush on the rusted areas. Repeat if required.
I don't like seeing rust on any sword because it is damaging the metal underneath. Black patches also harbour red rust underneath so it isn't safe to leave that on the metal either.

I contacted the makers of De-corroder a year ago regarding the effect their product had on metal. Surprisingly the were quite taken aback and told me to stop using it.

Ian

[RSWORD]

An important step in all of this process to definitely not forget is to add plenty of oil after any form of etching, polishing or anything of the sort. I recommend WD-40 as the first coat after a good polish or etch as it does a great job of expelling water molecules from the steel and really sinks into the pores of the metal. After a day or two of a good WD-40 soak, wipe away, clean area with acetone and then apply a light coat of gun oil to the area to conserve for longer periods of time.

[Ian Knight]

I would personally recommend applying Renaissance Wax which is used by many museums to protect valuable objects.

Ian

[Ibrahiim al Balooshi]

Originally Posted by RSWORD

An important step in all of this process to definitely not forget is to add plenty of oil after any form of etching, polishing or anything of the sort. I recommend WD-40 as the first coat after a good polish or etch as it does a great job of expelling water molecules from the steel and really sinks into the pores of the metal. After a day or two of a good WD-40 soak, wipe away, clean area with acetone and then apply a light coat of gun oil to the area to conserve for longer periods of time.

Salaams, For treating rust spots I use aluminium foil ... same as for using sandpaper ... it works at sub atomic levels apparently and the rust does vanish slowly. Use with just fingers and a few foil pieces folded in half... like a small wad.... and rub away. I get the same grey horrible result using lemon salt but the patina is coming back using olive oil and or gun oil . ( sewing machine oil )