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#1 |
Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: York, UK
Posts: 167
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Been removing the active rust, and have found that it's been working long enough to leave big, very ugly patches of black inactive rust all over the barrel's upper surfaces. I'd love to remove these but gather that inactive rust is bonded with the steel pretty firmly; noting Ward's recommendation of brass dental picks, would a brass brush do the same sort of job? Also, discovered that the green "copper" corrosion is indeed attributable to brass - consultation with a nearby expert on Oriental (i.e. non-Occidental) arms suggests it's part of the brazing that held its pan in place back when it was a matchlock (!); in the same area, the nipple carrier is seemingly screwed into the touch-hole, and the breech plug looks to have been (very crudely) welded in place. Eesh. Makes one leery of trying to shoot such a thing.
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#2 |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 51
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err on the side of caution when removing rust, last thing you want to do is leave it submerged too long
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#3 |
Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: York, UK
Posts: 167
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And a belated reply, with a minor update: browsing around the forum for further information on these creatures (I'm now thinking of buying one myself - it's everyone here's fault, I tell you!) I came across http://blade.japet.com/B-afghan1.htm - which got me thinking about this lock. I had attributed the cut-away section of the lock to a crude attempt at de-activation; is it instead possible that this was a native-made flintlock, modified to become a caplock? I present my hypothesis - with thanks to LPCA - in the form of this magnificent illustration.
I also attach a couple of better pictures, which might show the watering more clearly than did my previous efforts. |
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