SURPRISE! Wootz Steel in a Most Unexpected Place!...An Aceh Podang/Peudueng
 

I was fortunate enough to purchase this sword from a forum member a couple of months ago. The blade was a little spotty with some areas of deep pitting, so I sent it out to Philip Tom to see if he could improve the appearance of the blade.

When he began to polish and etch, he was astounded and contacted me immediately...."this thing's got a wootz blade...and a good wootz blade." I could not believe it as I have never seen a peudueng with a wootz blade. All the other features of the blade are quite the norm including its fullering and fexibility, though it is by no means flimsy. It also has the typical false edge of approximately 10in.

The wootz steel blade brought up and lot of questions between Phil and I, most notably "how did this sword come together"? My immediate theory was that one of the talented craftsmen from all over Asia they could be found in the Indonesian archipelago likely had made it.

But Phil brought up an excellent point...if that is case then why haven't we seen more similar blades of wootz from that area? Could it have been from a wootz ingot traded from India or Persian and then forged in Sumatra???...likely not keeping in mind the delicacy involved in forging a blade from a wootz ingot and not ruining the pattern in the process.

So now I tend to agree with Phil, with this likely being a "made to specifications order" blade requested from either Persia or India, and making it's way back to Sumatra. This is yet another sword that falls into my interest of the trade done in weapons in "dar al Islam". It's another example of a piece that I really wish "could talk" to us!

If this is the case, can you imagine the patience and care given to exact specifications, not to mention the "waiting time" for the buyer...likely at least two years!!!

Please share your thoughts on anything about the sword...its origins, construction, or otherwise.

This peudeung is nicely mounted with a better than usual hilt that has decorative motifs to he guard, a silver wire wrapped grip, and a magnificent pommel with brass mounts holding small(likely low grade) diamonds, and decorated in type Aceh enamel motifs. The hilt pad is quite nice as well, and is in great condition.

The sword came with its original leather scabbard, but there was so much grit and sand in the scabbard, it would have ruined the finished etch over time, so I asked Phil to make a wooden core scabbard for me.

I would be most interested in seeing examples of other original peudeung scabbards to give me some ideas to go by in completing this wooden one. Thanks for any pics here.

Thanks again for any input!

Dimensions:

Overall length: 42in.
Blade length: 36.5in
Widest point of the blade: 1.5in.

I'm afraid my comment is going to be reduced to just saying, what a beautiful sword! A pleasure to view it. :)

Nice sword Charles !! :cool:
Don't you think that most of the blades for this form of peudueng were sourced from India ?

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Don't you think that most of the blades for this form of peudueng were sourced from India ?[/QUOTE]


Phil and I both assumed that was the most logical place of origin.

Dear Charles,

A very nice example.

I believe you already give a lot of details about the origin and construction.
I agree with the theory that this blade was bought from outside Atjeh.
There are also examples with english factory made trade blades.
So why not trade a wootz blade from India ?

The spike like protrusion is quite bend. Maybe that can be restored / straitened ?

As for the scabbards.
There are a few examples on www.Atchin.nl
http://www.atchin.nl/Atchin/Atjeh/Pa...Peudeueng.html

Ps, the original scabbard that came with your example, is it not wood covered with leather ? I would try to get the inside of the original scabbard cleaned in order to maintain the original scabbard.

Best regards,
Willem

I'll just put this here as somewhat related . :)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aceh_Wa..._Sultanate.png

The hilt!
 

I'm mesmerized by the hilt. Fantastic and meticulous decoration. Yes, I love the steel too, but the hilt is a work of art.

Excellent Indian blade lovely hilt as well!

Could the pommel mount be gold, rather than brass? Not that it matters much, with such fine workmanship.

The pommel mounts are gold...not really sure why I said brass. I knew better. You have a good eye!

Another real neat sword Charles, congrats.

It seems both you and Rick have had some nice SEA swords with Wootz blades.

Here is an Amanremu from the Kelling Hall collection with what appears to be a Wootz inserted edge;

http://www.swordsantiqueweapons.com/s195_full.html

Gavin

First time I have seen anything like that Gavin. VERY interesting. I wonder if the smith had only a small wootz ingot and decided to use it in that manner???

collection Wereldmuseum Rotterdam inv.nr. 34300

Mysteries Of The Forge
 

Gav, lovely sword . :)
I wonder if all the cold shuts on your example occurred because the smith knew he would lose the wootz pattern if he heated the blade too much, thereby resulting in the aforementioned cold shuts . :confused: :shrug:

The use of a leather scabbard here(with the peudueng) really surprises me. I have always understood that leather does not hold up well in tropical conditions.

Perhaps someone else knows more about this???

Love it. Thanks for sharing, Charles. :cool:

Hi Charles,

Your sword came from a very high end collection and I suspect the inventory number 209 was left in place on the scabbard?
I would leave it, it is healthy even if shrunken a little.

Charles, Rick, I really don't know what the intention was when forging the amanremu, I'd say they maker had an idea and insight in to wootz, perhaps from those who traded the ingots? I just don't know...the end result wasn't pretty but is important in the study of wootz in Sumatra.
Wootz in Sumatra is a study that I think would be worth while as personally I think your wootz blade was formed in Sumatra, not traded.

Gavin

Charles, IIRC I have seen a couple of these scabbards and they were both leather .
I wonder if this style of sword was really meant for combat or simply as a status symbol . :confused:

Hi Charles,

all peudeuangs I have seen and/or owned had leathered scabbards.

The Dutch marechaussees used klewangs in tropical conditions which also had leathered scabbards......

Kind regards,
Maurice

Hi Rick,

I think, that they were meant to use in a fight. In wartime these status pieces need to do their job!
Just like the moro datu pieces. Besides the status (ivory jungayang hilts and gold or silver etc.), they also were used what they were made off when necesarry.

Kind regards,
Maurice

Maurice,

I believe these scabbards are of very light wood with a thin layer of leather.

Best regards,
Willem

Hi Maurice,

I am a a little surprised by leather or leather covered scabbards on native made blades. I had understood that leather does not hold up well in such climates...but I may be totally wrong.

As for this one's original leather scabbard, I still have it and keep it with the sword, but there is so much sand or grit so deep in the scabbard that I dare not use it for fear of ruining the finish to the blade and the exposed wootz.

Hi Willem,

Yes wood covered with leather.

Kind regards,
Maurice

Finally took some pictures with acceptable daylight of a peudeung from my own collection. Scabbard leather over wood.
Blade is laminated, What would you call this blade ?

Best regards,
Willem

Hello Willem,

I would call it a pamor blade. Nice sword! :)

Regards,
Detlef

Really attractive patter welding there Willem...consistent and good contrast. Is this the original etch or a later one?

Hello Charles,

I did not etch it myself.
The blade was pretty much in this condition when I bought it.

Best regards,
Willem

That's even better. VERY nice!

Pattern forged blades
 

Hi,

Quite new to this group, and not exactly a reply, but I would appreciate knowing the best method or process of testing a blade, to establish whether it is patterned or just plain. Thanks in advance.

Gordon

There is only one way: etch it. If there is a pattern, it is "pattern welded" ( or wootz), if not, - it is monosteel.

pattern forged blades
 

Hi Ariel,

Thanks for reply. I basic terms I was aware of the fact that the surface of the blade must be etched to reveal the grain structure however, the main thrust of my question was in relation to how the blade should be prepared for etching, and what chemicals or agents should be used to etch the metal.

Gordon

These are good questions, and a forum search will probably show at least several threads that explain the materials and the process. For someone like me, who has no advanced knowledge of chemistry, the following have worked:
- Clean the blade with soap and water and dry it out, then clean it again with alcohol to remove any residue of dirt, wax, oil or whatever may have been applied to it in the past;
- Dilute wine vinegar in warm water in 1:4 ratio of vinegar to water;
- Use the mild acid to dip the blade into and leave for half an hour, then check for a pattern, or, if the blade is too long and you do not have an appropriate size container, rub in the acid and see if a pattern starts to appear.

There are other acids, which would probably produce better results, but vinegar is easy to obtain and not really dangerous (no toxic fumes and if you get it on yourself, you won't be harmed), which is why I have opted for it.

Sincerely,
Teodor

Difficult question, some people etch with vinegar like Teodor describe, others use only Ferrichlorid but there are various other etching agents. Most of the time collectors swear by their technic as only good one. ;)
I think that different steel react better with one or the other. And it depend on the wished result.
I personally etch as well with vinegar similar as described in up but heat the etchant and blade, the reaction is faster and deeper.

Of course you get better results when the blade is fine polished and free from rust so far possible.

Regards,
Detlef

Hi Gordon,

a cheap and simple way to test a blade is to hold it under hot running water (must be hot enough, to burn your hand). If it is mechanical damascus, one can recognize the structure clearly after a few seconds.

Roland

Hi Teador,

Thanks very much, that's good information, and as you say quite safe. Not possible to use a container, so I'll opt for applying the solution by hand.

I appreciate your assistance.

Gordon

Hi Delef,

Many thanks to you also, and I do understand what you say as regards the temperature of the object and etchant; I'll opt for vinegar and see what appears if anything??

Regards,

Gordon

Hi Roland,

Very interesting and helpful; it seems a combination of heating the blade with hot water and applying the vinegar solution will produce the desired result if there's anything to be seen.

Thanks for this additional information.

Regards,

Gordon

1) Have you tried acetone as a cleaner? Or is there a downside or chemical reaction I haven't anticipated?

2)Why dilute the acid? It is only 5 or 7% to begin with? Is this to increase the working time? IF you are doing the brush on method, would you leave it undiluted?

I was just thinking the same; a professional arms restorer ( to several museums) did advise me the same regarding my collection:
to clean use first acetone and secondly renaissance wax.

My experence: it does work excellently on my yataghans, bichaqs and few Indonesian cold weapons I do have.

I am impressed! This is one of two amazing swords from Aceh that I have seen!

The first sword I saw had the original old English mark under languet .