Boxer Rebellion Sword - request for advice

Martin Lubojacky · 8th September 2009, 08:51 PM

May be common sword, nevertheless not my specialization and I would appreciate your help - answers to the folloving questions:

Why they used to be completely (incl. handle, metal fittings) black coloured ? Is it original colour or it was colured additionaly (see detail - also scratch was coloured). Shouldn´t this black "enamel" be removed during restoring ? If yes - completely or from certain parts only ?

The blade is very, very heavy and thick (not ballanced) and my opinion is the "fencing" with one hand would be rather cumbersome. Is this sword for two/"one and half" hands (the handle is relatively long) ?

Regards,

Martin

Tim Simmons · 8th September 2009, 09:02 PM

Martin I cannot see any enamel on this, perhaps because of the light. I would be surprised to see real molten glass enamel on a sword like this. It looks genuine to me, file marks on the handle but originally it would be covered in ray or shark skin.

fearn · 8th September 2009, 09:17 PM

Hi Martin,

As Tim noted, the handle should be covered with something like cloth or leather.

As for the weight and balance, it's not designed for European-style fencing, but for circular slashes, and I'm pretty sure it's a single-handed blade. That said, it could also simply be badly balanced. That did happen, especially during war-time.

Best,

F

Atlantia · 8th September 2009, 10:21 PM

Hi Martin,
I have a very similar one if you would like to compare? Also very heavy and still retaining some black 'paint' although sadly no scabbard.
Let me know how the size/weight compares.
Regards
Gene

http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showth...hlight=chinese

kronckew · 8th September 2009, 11:27 PM

here's a good series of photos on how to re-wrap the grip.

it's in chinese, but the photos say it all....

Linky

Martin Lubojacky · 10th September 2009, 12:48 PM

Thank you all for answers and good references/links.
Gene, dimensions are:
total length (in sheath): 95 cm
without sheath: 92 cm
weight without sheath: 1. 3 kgs
blade:
lenght: 75 cm
width: 4. 3 cm
thickness: 0. 6 cm (up tp 20 cm from the tip)
smooth surface, buth with signs of fighting

Atlantia · 10th September 2009, 10:00 PM

Thats interesting, thanks for posting the stats on your mate

I always find these comparisons very interesting.
Heres how mine measures up!

total length (sword): 91 cm
weight (sword): 1. 475 kgs
blade length: 75 cm
width: 4.3 cm
Spine thickness: 0. 6 cm (gradually thinning from half-way point)

P.S
Whats your guard like? Mines loose as hell

Atlantia · 10th September 2009, 10:17 PM

Its an interesting contrast.

I really should take the ghastly string off the handle and start the restoration

Atlantia · 10th September 2009, 10:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kronckew

here's a good series of photos on how to re-wrap the grip.

it's in chinese, but the photos say it all....

Linky

Cheers Kronck

Martin Lubojacky · 11th September 2009, 10:06 AM

The guard wabbles a little

Atlantia · 11th September 2009, 11:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Martin Lubojacky

The guard wabbles a little

I notice the hole in the handle of your sword is right where I thought the tang would be thinning down to enter the pommel.
So I guess the tang is wide right up to near the end?
Are you going to repolish the blade?

Martin Lubojacky · 27th September 2009, 08:31 PM

Sorry for late reply, Gene.

"I notice the hole in the handle of your sword is right where I thought the tang would be thinning down to enter the pommel.
So I guess the tang is wide right up to near the end?"
-- I am of the same idea, we will see when I overhaul it.

"Are you going to repolish the blade?"
--I would like to do it and also to etch the blade (for the case...). And to re-wrap the handle. (But everything later, not now).

Regards,

Martin

8th September 2009, 08:51 PM	#1
Martin Lubojacky Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: Czech Republic Posts: 841	Boxer Rebellion Sword - request for advice May be common sword, nevertheless not my specialization and I would appreciate your help - answers to the folloving questions: Why they used to be completely (incl. handle, metal fittings) black coloured ? Is it original colour or it was colured additionaly (see detail - also scratch was coloured). Shouldn´t this black "enamel" be removed during restoring ? If yes - completely or from certain parts only ? The blade is very, very heavy and thick (not ballanced) and my opinion is the "fencing" with one hand would be rather cumbersome. Is this sword for two/"one and half" hands (the handle is relatively long) ? Regards, Martin Attached Images

10th September 2009, 10:00 PM	#7
Atlantia Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: The Sharp end Posts: 2,928	Thats interesting, thanks for posting the stats on your mate I always find these comparisons very interesting. Heres how mine measures up! total length (sword): 91 cm weight (sword): 1. 475 kgs blade length: 75 cm width: 4.3 cm Spine thickness: 0. 6 cm (gradually thinning from half-way point) P.S Whats your guard like? Mines loose as hell Last edited by Atlantia; 10th September 2009 at 10:46 PM.

8th September 2009, 09:02 PM	#2
Tim Simmons Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: What is still UK Posts: 5,780	Martin I cannot see any enamel on this, perhaps because of the light. I would be surprised to see real molten glass enamel on a sword like this. It looks genuine to me, file marks on the handle but originally it would be covered in ray or shark skin.

8th September 2009, 09:17 PM	#3
fearn Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 1,247	Hi Martin, As Tim noted, the handle should be covered with something like cloth or leather. As for the weight and balance, it's not designed for European-style fencing, but for circular slashes, and I'm pretty sure it's a single-handed blade. That said, it could also simply be badly balanced. That did happen, especially during war-time. Best, F

8th September 2009, 10:21 PM	#4
Atlantia Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: The Sharp end Posts: 2,928	Hi Martin, I have a very similar one if you would like to compare? Also very heavy and still retaining some black 'paint' although sadly no scabbard. Let me know how the size/weight compares. Regards Gene http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showth...hlight=chinese

8th September 2009, 11:27 PM	#5
kronckew Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Room 101, Glos. UK Posts: 4,167	here's a good series of photos on how to re-wrap the grip. it's in chinese, but the photos say it all.... Linky

10th September 2009, 12:48 PM	#6
Martin Lubojacky Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: Czech Republic Posts: 841	Thank you all for answers and good references/links. Gene, dimensions are: total length (in sheath): 95 cm without sheath: 92 cm weight without sheath: 1. 3 kgs blade: lenght: 75 cm width: 4. 3 cm thickness: 0. 6 cm (up tp 20 cm from the tip) smooth surface, buth with signs of fighting

10th September 2009, 10:17 PM	#8
Atlantia Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: The Sharp end Posts: 2,928	Its an interesting contrast. I really should take the ghastly string off the handle and start the restoration

11th September 2009, 10:06 AM	#10
Martin Lubojacky Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: Czech Republic Posts: 841	The guard wabbles a little

27th September 2009, 08:31 PM	#12
Martin Lubojacky Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: Czech Republic Posts: 841	Sorry for late reply, Gene. "I notice the hole in the handle of your sword is right where I thought the tang would be thinning down to enter the pommel. So I guess the tang is wide right up to near the end?" -- I am of the same idea, we will see when I overhaul it. "Are you going to repolish the blade?" --I would like to do it and also to etch the blade (for the case...). And to re-wrap the handle. (But everything later, not now). Regards, Martin