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#1 |
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I’m sharing photos of a twist-core Moro kris/kalis that I recently repatriated to the Philippines. It had been part of the collection of a European gentleman who once lived in the islands and went back to his homeland, Austria in the 1980s.
Robert Cato in his book Moro Swords (1996) claimed that such design represented typical 18th century examples, and thus the moniker "archaic" Moro kris. There are also claims that the angle at the end of the dividing line that separate the blade and gangya is indicative of the age of the blade. However, both are unsubstantiated claims. I do not dismiss their possibility and I hope that definitive evidence to prove the claims will eventually be discovered. At the moment however, all that is certain is that this is a rare example of the Moro kalis/kris. Your comments and insights are most welcome. Last edited by F. de Luzon; 19th May 2017 at 11:03 AM. |
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#2 | |||
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Hello Fernando,
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The extant examples seem to support the notion that the so-called archaic kalis were indeed among the very early types reaching (or being developed in) the Bangsamoro region. The exact time frame is still not established with a tendency to push it back in time, possibly the 17th century. However, it would be really great to establish some supporting evidence. Quote:
I have a hunch that your specimen is not one of the really early examples though and may originate from the 19th century: The angled separation line is longer than in the oldest pieces and also the decorative motifs at the base of the blade make me believe so; there seems to have been a revival of the archaic style (if it ever went of of fashion) during that period. BTW, what are the dimensions of this piece? Regards, Kai |
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#3 | |
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Sorry, overlooked the specs you mentioned in the other thread:
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#4 | |||
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It took longer than expected but I'm just happy that it was not lost in transit. Definitely worth the wait! The previous owner purchased it in the Philippines and brought it to Austria in the 1980s but that's all the information I received regarding its provenance. Quote:
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It seems that this particular style was presumed to be an older design because of it's strong resemblance to the keris. Some keris and kris enthusiasts have treated it as a missing link to show the evolution of the Moro kris from the keris. However, such evolution is also an unsubstantiated claim. Again, I do not dismiss the possibility but I'm trying to find concrete evidence. For now, I am not ready to conclude anything except that this style, while typical for a Moro kris, is rare. As always, thank you for your comments and insights! Kind regards, Fernando Last edited by F. de Luzon; 19th May 2017 at 04:01 PM. |
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#5 |
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very nice twistcore, Fernando! it appears that your collection is growing quite bit!
i love these type of twistcore: very subtle as oppose to the topographic type. i always wonder if this is indicative of the age. or perhaps it's just a particular style a panday preferred at that time. it's hard to say. i have an archaic kris that was discussed before. it's not twistcore, but i believe it's an indicative of an older kris: http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showthread.php?t=15955 |
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#6 |
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I agree with Spunger. I usually see this type of "feathered" twist core indicative of earlier kris. The technique seems to have been lost by the time of the early 20th century.
Also I would be cautious about the angle of the end of the ganga - I have seen older forms with that type of ganga before. In any case, I too love this type of twist core and it will probably pop out after a good etch. Please post after etching pictures. |
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#7 |
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Hello Fernando,
very nice piece! ![]() Regards, Detlef Last edited by Sajen; 21st May 2017 at 08:46 AM. Reason: Misspelling |
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#8 |
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Hello Spunjer, Battara and Detlef!
Thank you for your remarks! I will post pictures as soon as possible. Kind regards, Fernando |
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#9 |
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Great kris and great photos!Makes me want use it as wallpaper.
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#10 |
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Wouldn't that wall paper be bumpy?
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#11 | |
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#12 |
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Presenting the blade after etching.
Last edited by F. de Luzon; 10th June 2017 at 10:39 AM. |
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#13 |
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What great and well done twist core!
This kind is usually the best type and masterfully done. Also it is usually found on older blades (like this one for example). Congratulations on a great piece! |
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#14 | |
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Kind regards, Fernando |
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#15 |
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My goodness that's an attractive kris.
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#16 | |
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Hello Fernando,
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This really is a sweet kris! I am amazed how weak the contrast seems to be though - haven't seen such an example before. The twistcore is certainly done with iron alloys of different composition and it's kinda weird that the etch doesn't pick it up. Did you do some gentle repolishing before the etch? Considering the somewhat blotchy appearance of the steel core (slorok in Jawa parlor), I believe there is a chance that the etch did not work properly, possibly due to incomplete degreasing and perhaps polishing up with a power tool at the hands of an earlier owner? A perfect etch often needs several attempts. I agree that one wants to be very gentle with this beauty though! ![]() Regards, Kai |
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#17 |
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Agree with Kai in all points! Very nice kris and a shame that the twisted area don't show more contrast after etching.
Regards, Detlef |
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#18 |
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I have tried etching my blades using the same method vinegar and lemon and I got the same result as yours. Try using a stronger solution like PCB, it works just fine for me specially on those stubborn Barong patterns that are hard to etch, it might work on your beautiful 18th C Kris. I am attaching two of mine that was PCB etched. I the first one had a very grayish dull pattern with vinegar and lemon, when I switched to PCB it gave me the pattern that I was looking for. Good luck.
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#19 |
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I have one of these with the same pattern; some of you are using it as an avatar.
What chemical solution did you use to etch it? I had a bit more success with ferric chloride (circuit board etchant) diluted with distilled water. I used to get it at Radio Shack here in the states, but they are going, or have gone out of business. ![]() I've always wondered if Stop Bath (used in B&W photography) would work; it's about the strongest solution of acetic acid that I know of. |
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#20 | |
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![]() BTW Fernando, i don't know if i have mentioned this before, but your photography skills are quite good. Are you a professional or just an advanced amateur? |
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#21 |
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When I etched my 'archaic' kris I used cotton swabs to keep the etchant within the bounds of the engraving. This allowed me to concentrate my efforts on the center without darkening the edges too much.
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#22 | |
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Hello Rick,
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I believe I did try acetic acid concentrations well into the range of photographic stopping solutions for etching but did not observe any major effect of concentration on the final staining. Only the etching time gets shorter and shorter with increasing concentration and so does the risk of unnecessary corrosion: Thus, not preferable in my book... Ferric chloride certainly is a stronger stain. However, it is essential to completely neutralize it after etching and also to rinse the blade extensively since any remaining chloride ions (i. e. salt after successful neutralisation) will result in new rust developing. With a porous blade like old twistcore both, effective neutralisation and rinsing, poses quite a challenge! Regards, Kai |
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#23 |
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I don't think I've ever seen one of these old cores that really has a stark contrast that 'pops'.
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#24 | |
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![]() Quote:
but it should look like the from you or CCUAL shown examples, by all three blades the twist core is good to to seen. ![]() Regards, Detlef |
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#25 |
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I'm with Rick, with same results on my early twist cores.
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#26 |
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Thank you for your comments and suggestions, gentlemen!
Fernando |
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#27 | |
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