Ethnographic Arms & Armour
 

Go Back   Ethnographic Arms & Armour > Discussion Forums > Ethnographic Weapons
FAQ Calendar Today's Posts Search

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 21st March 2006, 06:46 PM   #1
katana
Member
 
katana's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Kent
Posts: 2,653
Default Mongo shield? how can I preserve it?

Hi everyone,
another addition, this shield which I believe to be Mongo (thanks to Luc's website), please correct me if I'm wrong.
The shield is 55 1/2 inches long and 11'' wide. The problem is the weaved material has areas where it is very brittle, is there anything I can apply which would help to prevent this?, thanking you in advance
Attached Images
  
katana is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21st March 2006, 06:53 PM   #2
Tim Simmons
Member
 
Tim Simmons's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: What is still UK
Posts: 5,807
Default

Well done. I have seen some very good restoration work done by basket weavers. Unfortunately not all crafts people are creative so you might have to look around. I would not play with any glues unless you are experienced.
Tim Simmons is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22nd March 2006, 12:58 PM   #3
katana
Member
 
katana's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Kent
Posts: 2,653
Default

Tim,
the shield seems to offer very little protect from steel blades/spears.
Was this type of shield used in combat? Or is it more ritualistic? Or even some sort of fashion statement! I believe the shield (in battle) was better than nothing, but effectively holding an elongated 'basket' against attack from a stabbing spear........
katana is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22nd March 2006, 09:50 PM   #4
Luc LEFEBVRE
Member
 
Luc LEFEBVRE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: France
Posts: 472
Thumbs up MONGO NGATA

This is a MONGO shield attribute to the NGATA.
Semi-large type called gube.
Yours seems to have a clear part in the middle part : some shields are covered in the center with another plaited part to reinforce the front.
See the pictures at the bottom...
I don't think you need to repair it, just clean it.
Yes, this kind of shield was used for war.
"The most often used material for wickerwork comes from the central vein (rachis) of the leaves of different palm trees (elaïs, borassus, piassava,raphia...)" GUBA Ivan Baur Africa shields Vol I

Well done they are strong enough to protect from arrows, some spears, throwing knife and they are especially light for close-combat.

Yours is a nice one, they are not easy to find in good state, and cost a lot, even in Belgium where we can find some.
The rarest are the ZANDE shields, shorter, nicest one, and very expensive.
I have the "big" model of Mongo:
http://lulef.free.fr/html/mongo.html

Luc
Attached Images
    
Luc LEFEBVRE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22nd March 2006, 09:57 PM   #5
Luc LEFEBVRE
Member
 
Luc LEFEBVRE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: France
Posts: 472
Smile GUBA

If you like Central-African shields, buy these books:
http://cgi.befr.ebay.be/GUBA-1-2-Bou...QQcmdZViewItem

or here
http://www.congoarts.com/page2.htm

Luc
Luc LEFEBVRE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22nd March 2006, 09:57 PM   #6
Tim Simmons
Member
 
Tim Simmons's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: What is still UK
Posts: 5,807
Default

Yes!
Tim Simmons is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22nd March 2006, 11:09 PM   #7
katana
Member
 
katana's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Kent
Posts: 2,653
Default

Thankyou both,
Luc you have roused my curiosity, you said that this shield would be expensive, would you mind giving me an approximate amount in Euro's. It's nice to know the value of some of the pieces that I'm collecting. I have never seen or heard of a 'price guide' for African weapons, is there such a thing?
katana is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23rd March 2006, 12:20 AM   #8
Luc LEFEBVRE
Member
 
Luc LEFEBVRE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: France
Posts: 472
Wink

No guide for the price of African weapons.Search on the web, contact the gallery and collectors to have an idea, take a look at the Sotheby's catalogues...
For exemple a simple Mongo, not beautiful :500€
http://www.hamillgallery.com/SHIELDS...duShields.html

and try to ask the price here:
http://www.joelcooner.com/African/Af...f-shields.html

I try to get this one, but it ends at night...and Kevin Conru get it
http://cgi.befr.ebay.be/ws/eBayISAPI...tem=7383014514

Kevin Conru:
http://www.tribalmania.com/INTERVIEWCONRU.htm

Luc
Luc LEFEBVRE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23rd March 2006, 10:23 AM   #9
katana
Member
 
katana's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Kent
Posts: 2,653
Default

Thanks Luc,
very interesting
katana is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 24th March 2006, 05:44 AM   #10
sabertasche
Member
 
sabertasche's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 149
Default

Just a thought re wicker for shields. I'm reading a book called "Gates of Fire" by Steven Pressfield (ISBN 0-385-49251-0). It is a novel of the battle of Thermoylae, Greeks against the Persians under Xerxes - 480 BC. In describing the battle tactics of the Spartans, the author points out that wicker was used to entrap blades and points. Perhaps this is one reason these shields were made of wicker (plus there was lots of reeds around).

The book is an excellant read. IMHO it would make a fantastic movie.

Greg
sabertasche is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 24th March 2006, 06:25 AM   #11
VANDOO
(deceased)
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: OKLAHOMA, USA
Posts: 3,138
Default

I AM NOT A EXPERT ON HOW TO CARE FOR BASKETS BUT I THINK IT WOULD BE THE WAY TO CARE FOR AND PRESERVE THIS KIND OF SHIELD. I HAVE A OLD HANDMADE HAT FROM HAWAII THAT I LIGHTLY COAT WITH MINERAL OIL ON A RAG FROM TIME TO TIME. IT KEEPS THE WOVEN MATERIAL FROM DRYING OUT AND BECOMING BRITTLE AND RESTORES THE COLOR OF THE MATERIALS USED. A HAT CAN BE WORN FOR A LIFETIME BARRING ACCIDENTS IF PROPERLY MAINTAINED. IF YOU DO THIS IT WILL DARKEN THE COLOR AND REMOVE DIRT SO IF YOU LIKE THE WAY IT LOOKS NOW YOU MAY NOT WANT TO USE THE MINERAL OIL. IT IS BEST TO USE THE OIL SPAREINGLY AND NOT TO SOAK THE OBJECT, IN HARD TO GET SPOTS IT IS SOMETIMES NECESSARY TO USE A BRUSH AND THEN TO BLOT THE EXCESS OFF WITH A CLOTH. DOING THIS SEVERAL TIMES LEAVING ONLY A LIGHT COAT IS THE BEST WAY, THE OIL WILL PENETRATE BEST IF IT IS IN A WARM OR HOT AREA BUT IT IS BEST NOT TO PUT IT IN DIRECT SUNLIGHT AS THAT WILL BLEACH IT OUT. NICE LOOKING SHIELD GOOD LUCK
VANDOO is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 12:27 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Posts are regarded as being copyrighted by their authors and the act of posting material is deemed to be a granting of an irrevocable nonexclusive license for display here.