Axe for Restoration.

[Ibrahiim al Balooshi]

Salaams,

This is a second millenium Bronze age Baluch Axe measuring 5 and a half inches long and about 4 inches wide at the blade; possibly from Mekran Baluchistan. As seen it is hugely corroded in the surface. Bronze age weapons contain a high content of copper and some say the age should have been called the Copper Age.
How should the project be planned out. I am tempted to drop the item into a fairly strong acid ( car battery acid with 2:1 water added and 3 to 5 minute "observed" exposures then neuralised with vinegar and work down the scale to lighter techniques rather than beginning with say coke cola and working up to stronger applications. I would probably finish off with fairly liberal preservation wax.

Any ideas welcome.

Ibrahiim Al Balooshi.

[Gavin Nugent]

A good idea would to be leave it and appreciate it as is and for the centuries of preservation patina amassed with the beautiful patina.

Gav

[Atlantia]

Originally Posted by Ibrahiim al Balooshi

Salaams,

This is a second millenium Bronze age Baluch Axe measuring 5 and a half inches long and about 4 inches wide at the blade; possibly from Mekran Baluchistan. As seen it is hugely corroded in the surface. Bronze age weapons contain a high content of copper and some say the age should have been called the Copper Age.
How should the project be planned out. I am tempted to drop the item into a fairly strong acid ( car battery acid with 2:1 water added and 3 to 5 minute "observed" exposures then neuralised with vinegar and work down the scale to lighter techniques rather than beginning with say coke cola and working up to stronger applications. I would probably finish off with fairly liberal preservation wax.

Any ideas welcome.

Ibrahiim Al Balooshi.

(just one 'eek' wasn't enough)
OMG!!!! DEFINATELY NOT!!!

LOL, I hope you were joking there Ibrahiim?

Your axe isn't a type I'm familiar with but if you are right in your identification, then as with all bronze age antiquities the patina (oxidisation) is of VITAL importance.

The only questions are:

Is the patina stable or is it bronze-rot (AKA bronze disease)?
Does the patina need to be stablilised for display?

If you use any chemical process to strip the axe then it would lose all of its history, most of its value and be unrecognisable from it's original form because the stripping would also be removing the original surface of the metal.

You should speak to someone who is familiar with archeological finds of this type from the same area and ask advice.

My advice would be to display the axe WITH as much of the patina as can be saved.
I would clean it with a small stiff (non metal) brush (either nylon or natural bristles) VERY CAREFULLY.
The display it on a custom stand.
Watch it carefully over time to see if the patina changes at all. If you believe the patina is unstable due to disease then have a look at this article:
Bronze disease article.

Always remember that the aim is to preserve the patina and only to remove the dirt and loose flakes/dust.

You could always have one of your craftsmen reproduce this piece so that you can display a replica with it?

Lovely item BTW

Best
Gene

[Indianajones]

Hi all,
as I have a bit experience in restoring, it does like like the oxidation on this piece is active, hence the lightgreen color. Leaving it like this would result in almost weekly wiping away the fallen oxidation from the shelf its on.

Though if anyone cares to know my opinion, I would just subtle wash and scrub the piece with a scrubsponge (those with a green scrublayer) but leaving a green layer on and after it dried try to fixate the left green surface with a resinspray which is used for fixating charcoaldrawings (lucid fluid available in art n paintshops). This fluid will be sucked into the green oxidation and does not leave a coating on top, but it does change the color of the green into a darker shade.

If the object is found in a salty type of soil it may have to be left soaking in a bath of water first to (try to) remove/dissolve all the salt.

Using acid til the bare metal is visible -as you might suggested- is irreversable and may degrade the object to a lump of metal/'just a metal axe'.

Good luck!

[Atlantia]

Originally Posted by Indianajones

Hi all,
as I have a bit experience in restoring, it does like like the oxidation on this piece is active, hence the lightgreen color. Leaving it like this would result in almost weekly wiping away the fallen oxidation from the shelf its on.

Though if anyone cares to know my opinion, I would just subtle wash and scrub the piece with a scrubsponge (those with a green scrublayer) but leaving a green layer on and after it dried try to fixate the left green surface with a resinspray which is used for fixating charcoaldrawings (lucid fluid available in art n paintshops). This fluid will be sucked into the green oxidation and does not leave a coating on top, but it does change the color of the green into a darker shade.

If the object is found in a salty type of soil it may have to be left soaking in a bath of water first to (try to) remove/dissolve all the salt.

Using acid til the bare metal is visible -as you might suggested- is irreversable and may degrade the object to a lump of metal/'just a metal axe'.

Good luck!

If the oxidisation is bronze disease then it will need to be treated and neutralised or it will continue.
On an item with this depth of oxidisation any permanent coating may seal in more problems that it cures.

[A.alnakkas]

Hello,

I think you ought to perserve this item rather then restore it. :-)

[Ibrahiim al Balooshi]

Originally Posted by Atlantia

(just one 'eek' wasn't enough)
OMG!!!! DEFINATELY NOT!!!

LOL, I hope you were joking there Ibrahiim?

Your axe isn't a type I'm familiar with but if you are right in your identification, then as with all bronze age antiquities the patina (oxidisation) is of VITAL importance.

The only questions are:

Is the patina stable or is it bronze-rot (AKA bronze disease)?
Does the patina need to be stablilised for display?

If you use any chemical process to strip the axe then it would lose all of its history, most of its value and be unrecognisable from it's original form because the stripping would also be removing the original surface of the metal.

You should speak to someone who is familiar with archeological finds of this type from the same area and ask advice.

My advice would be to display the axe WITH as much of the patina as can be saved.
I would clean it with a small stiff (non metal) brush (either nylon or natural bristles) VERY CAREFULLY.
The display it on a custom stand.
Watch it carefully over time to see if the patina changes at all. If you believe the patina is unstable due to disease then have a look at this article:
Bronze disease article.

Always remember that the aim is to preserve the patina and only to remove the dirt and loose flakes/dust.

You could always have one of your craftsmen reproduce this piece so that you can display a replica with it?

Lovely item BTW

Best
Gene

Salaams Gene, Great info there on bronze(rust) disease worthy of inclusion into any restorers almanac. I have had the item for decades and I am in no rush to launch the axe into invasive surgery. I agree absolutely about just washing the axe free of dirt and loose flakes. I think it will last a few hundred years as it is. Perhaps a preservation wax could work. Regards Ibrahiim

[Ibrahiim al Balooshi]

Originally Posted by A.alnakkas

Hello,

I think you ought to perserve this item rather then restore it. :-)

Salaams, Yes I agree. Thanks. Ibrahiim

[Ibrahiim al Balooshi]

Originally Posted by Atlantia

If the oxidisation is bronze disease then it will need to be treated and neutralised or it will continue.
On an item with this depth of oxidisation any permanent coating may seal in more problems that it cures.

Salaams, Agreed .. It stays unsealed. Ibrahiim

[Ibrahiim al Balooshi]

Originally Posted by Indianajones

Hi all,
as I have a bit experience in restoring, it does like like the oxidation on this piece is active, hence the lightgreen color. Leaving it like this would result in almost weekly wiping away the fallen oxidation from the shelf its on.

Though if anyone cares to know my opinion, I would just subtle wash and scrub the piece with a scrubsponge (those with a green scrublayer) but leaving a green layer on and after it dried try to fixate the left green surface with a resinspray which is used for fixating charcoaldrawings (lucid fluid available in art n paintshops). This fluid will be sucked into the green oxidation and does not leave a coating on top, but it does change the color of the green into a darker shade.

If the object is found in a salty type of soil it may have to be left soaking in a bath of water first to (try to) remove/dissolve all the salt.

Using acid til the bare metal is visible -as you might suggested- is irreversable and may degrade the object to a lump of metal/'just a metal axe'.

Good luck!

Salaams Indianajones, Some useful ideas there thank you. I will soak in a bath to remove any salt and clean it up carefully to get the dirt off ... otherwise I think I can live with the patina ... 4000 years ! It should last a bit longer. Regards Ibrahiim.

[Atlantia]

Originally Posted by Ibrahiim al Balooshi

Salaams Gene, Great info there on bronze(rust) disease worthy of inclusion into any restorers almanac. I have had the item for decades and I am in no rush to launch the axe into invasive surgery. I agree absolutely about just washing the axe free of dirt and loose flakes. I think it will last a few hundred years as it is. Perhaps a preservation wax could work. Regards Ibrahiim

You're welcome buddy.
I've used waxes and even light oils on stable verdi-gris/patina on bronze to good effect, but never on anything as heavily oxidised as this.

It's your call mate.
Lovely complete item though, congrats.

[Indianajones]

Your welcome Ibrahim, actually I dont know if I would be patient enough myself to leave it soaking for some time, but that would be best. And than again wait for it to get totally dry.
May I notice that wax does leave moist (-y air) through and therefore the oxidationproces will procede. Also it -when applied richly- will leave this shiny layer on the surface which the 'general public does not appreciate' and therefore for future sales make devalues the axe.

Ah all this advice . . . . . I hear you think . . . . but one does learn from all this, dont we?! Perhaps just wait with applieing any wax, coating etc??

[kahnjar1]

Interesting old axe.
I think the feedback here shows that collectors do not like to ruin items by overcleaning, and use of such things as grinding wheels and acid, as some obviously do. As has been said above, it is better to preserve, rather than try to return an item to the way it used to be. Not only does it remove the"age" but also the value, and turns collectors away in droves.

[Ibrahiim al Balooshi]

Originally Posted by kahnjar1

Interesting old axe.
I think the feedback here shows that collectors do not like to ruin items by overcleaning, and use of such things as grinding wheels and acid, as some obviously do. As has been said above, it is better to preserve, rather than try to return an item to the way it used to be. Not only does it remove the"age" but also the value, and turns collectors away in droves.

Salaams,
Yes, thats why I put it up for discussion. There are obviously huge differences between archeological artefacts and antiques and as you can see by the excellent range of replies; "forum" have observed that. That does not mean that all items have to be left un restored but due diligence must be applied to age and condition; In the case of this ancient item it may be possible to prevent further deterioration but other than that it should be left alone. As you can also see by the well informed respones to my thread on Restoration and Preservation; I think common sense is key.
Regards ~ Ibrahiim.

[Ibrahiim al Balooshi]

Originally Posted by Indianajones

Your welcome Ibrahim, actually I dont know if I would be patient enough myself to leave it soaking for some time, but that would be best. And than again wait for it to get totally dry.
May I notice that wax does leave moist (-y air) through and therefore the oxidationproces will procede. Also it -when applied richly- will leave this shiny layer on the surface which the 'general public does not appreciate' and therefore for future sales make devalues the axe.

Ah all this advice . . . . . I hear you think . . . . but one does learn from all this, dont we?! Perhaps just wait with applieing any wax, coating etc??

Salaams, Great advice. I will soak it and let it dry. No wax. Done!
Regards Ibrahiim.