Chromed Barung

Spunjer · 7th September 2008, 12:55 PM

got an old barung that, of all things, someone decide to chrome. at first i thought it was just taken cared of and maintained all these years. well, it was chromed

i would like to remove the chrome; the question is, how? i thought about elctrolysis process but with that, i have to use muriatic acid, which i'm afraid it will ruin the blade.
anyone has any suggestion?

ward · 7th September 2008, 04:04 PM

use muratic just have a pot of water nearby and do not leave it to long in the muratic . wear a mask when working with the acid

Spunjer · 7th September 2008, 11:58 PM

thanks ward.
any suggestion on the muriatic/water ratio? and how long should i leave it in?

Battara · 8th September 2008, 01:52 AM

Shame about the chrome, I know they used to do this in the early and mid 20c as a way of preservation. They even did this to US Civil War blades.

Robert · 8th September 2008, 02:26 AM

If you are really lucky when they chromed the blade it was done in triple chrome: copper, nickel and then chrome. The copper will help protect the blade from the acid when you remove the chrome plating.

ward · 8th September 2008, 03:04 AM

if you are buying muratic that is used to clean pools use it undiluted. Leave it in to the count of a slow 10 dip it in water bring some x-fine steel wool across it rinse and shake excess water off and dip it again. keep repeating untill it is done. If you find it is not removeing change to the count of 20. watch muratic it is dangerous to work with and if you get the fumes in your lungs you can end up in hospital. Basically it is just dulitued sulperic and does not store well it weakens quickly especially with temperature changes use the left over to clean concrete do not dump it down drain

kino · 8th September 2008, 04:25 PM

[QUOTE=Spunjer]got an old barung that, of all things, someone decide to chrome. at first i thought it was just taken cared of and maintained all these years. well, it was chromed

QUOTE]

LOL! I too have been fooled by the same. Here I was thinking about a previous owner, being so overzealous polishing a barung blade to a mirror like finish. Then I saw pittings, with resemblance to my mother's VW bug bumper.
I too would like the chrome removed, but in fear of ruining the blade.

Ho brah, If you decide to do it, show the results.

Check out the shine on this one.

Maurice · 8th September 2008, 08:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kino

Check out the shine on this one.

I almost see you with your camera shining in the blade

Lew · 8th September 2008, 09:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maurice

I almost see you with your camera shining in the blade

That is really an evil spirit that is trapped in the blade by the chrome finish

Lew

Battara · 8th September 2008, 11:23 PM

Kino, that is a really nice puppy.

kino · 12th September 2008, 05:37 AM

Batarra, The hilt is a simple carve, nothing really fancy. The wood is gorgeous, combine the 2, and I find a hidden beauty.

Quote:

Originally Posted by LOUIEBLADES

That is really an evil spirit that is trapped in the blade by the chrome finish

Lew

Lew, There is no such thing as an "Evil Spirit", residing in swords. ....wait...
what the.... why is that barung moving...NO..NO..SOMEONE CALL.. 9-1-

Battara · 12th September 2008, 06:06 AM

I CALL FIRST DIBS ON KINO'S COLLECTION!

Jeff Pringle · 12th September 2008, 06:31 PM

Muriatic is a 33% dilution of hydrochloric acid, the main drawback/risk of using it is its propensity to form an acid fog that will coat every bit of steel (even stainless) in the room/building with a layer of very active rust, do not play with it in the same building your collection is housed in!!
I once got to check out 12 brand-new stainless elevators that needed to be replaced when the flooring contractor washed the newly-laid granite floor with muriatic to remove grout residue... expensive!

Spunjer · 12th September 2008, 06:41 PM

thanks for the warning, jeff.

i've decided that i will be doing this outdoors, hopefully this weekend, weather permitting...

ward · 12th September 2008, 08:09 PM

I do not disagree it is nasty to work with that is why I suggested a respirator it will eat thru the standard surgical gloves also and make you cough like a 90 year old

Lee · 13th September 2008, 01:20 AM

Unfortunately the surface prep for plating is kind of harsh if done to insure a lasting finish and the surface then takes another hit upon removal. You might be better off selling this one to someone who wants a shiny wall-hanger and putting the proceeds to an example with a less traumatic past.

I have one large bolo which is chrome plated from the early 1970s. I bought it in a shop in Manila and presume that was the maker's intended finish in that case. It does well up on the wall.

Robert · 4th December 2010, 03:33 AM

Unfortunately I now have one to add to the "What Were They Thinking" list of blades that have been chromed. As I really don't have much tied up in it I think that as soon as it warms up that I will try to remove the chrome just to see if it can be done without harming the blade. I will let everyone know if it works out or not.

Robert

Battara · 4th December 2010, 06:17 PM

What a stinking shame. It always bugs the crap out of me.

Robert · 4th December 2010, 11:34 PM

I know what you mean.

That's why when I saw this I felt an obligation to try to put it back as close as possible to its original state. I'm just hoping that it turns out right.

Robert

David · 5th December 2010, 12:17 AM

I dunno if i would automatically sell off such a blade as a wall hanging. Frankly, while i would certainly prefer a chrome-less blade, Kino's example is still quite beautiful, one worth holding on to....
BTW....does anyone know if the evil spirit of the blade actually dispatched Kino, and if so just where i can go to pick up his collection...?

Robert · 5th December 2010, 01:30 AM

"BTW....does anyone know if the evil spirit of the blade actually dispatched Kino, and if so just where i can go to pick up his collection...?"

It's a secret

Kino was alive and well as of October but I don't think that I've seen him post anything since. That doesn't mean he hasn't been lurking around though.

I wouldn't say the one I posted would be considered a wall hanger by any means but it would be nice to see it the way that it was meant to look instead of the way it looks now.

Robert

Battara · 5th December 2010, 02:01 AM

Since I didn't have the acids to do this, I had to take off chrome on a piece I am restoring right now the old fashioned way - sanding and polishing by hand.

Robert · 5th December 2010, 02:13 AM

I have a friend that can remove the chrome by reverse plating but I will have to sand off the nickel myself. Then a light etch to see if there is any pattern present. The only real downside to this is that I have to take the sword completely apart.

Robert

Battara · 5th December 2010, 04:00 AM

Actually I misspoke - I had to sand off nickel plating, not chrome. Chrome is easier to take off.

Good luck Robert.

Robert · 5th December 2010, 04:11 AM

Jose, How did you remove the chrome on the one you are restoring?

Robert

Battara · 5th December 2010, 05:22 AM

Well, it was actually nickel plating, and I had to use several different grades of sand paper by hand. Then I polished it. There are still places where the plating exists and I am debating whether to take those off or not.

This was not as bad as a US Civil War foot officer's sword I restored for someone years ago that was double nickel plated.

That one took a very long time.

7th September 2008, 12:55 PM	#1
Spunjer Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Witness Protection Program Posts: 1,730	Chromed Barung got an old barung that, of all things, someone decide to chrome. at first i thought it was just taken cared of and maintained all these years. well, it was chromed i would like to remove the chrome; the question is, how? i thought about elctrolysis process but with that, i have to use muriatic acid, which i'm afraid it will ruin the blade. anyone has any suggestion?

8th September 2008, 04:25 PM	#7
kino Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 1,001	[QUOTE=Spunjer]got an old barung that, of all things, someone decide to chrome. at first i thought it was just taken cared of and maintained all these years. well, it was chromed QUOTE] LOL! I too have been fooled by the same. Here I was thinking about a previous owner, being so overzealous polishing a barung blade to a mirror like finish. Then I saw pittings, with resemblance to my mother's VW bug bumper. I too would like the chrome removed, but in fear of ruining the blade. Ho brah, If you decide to do it, show the results. Check out the shine on this one. Attached Images

4th December 2010, 03:33 AM	#17
Robert EAAF Staff Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Centerville, Kansas Posts: 2,196	Unfortunately I now have one to add to the "What Were They Thinking" list of blades that have been chromed. As I really don't have much tied up in it I think that as soon as it warms up that I will try to remove the chrome just to see if it can be done without harming the blade. I will let everyone know if it works out or not. Robert Attached Images

7th September 2008, 04:04 PM	#2
ward Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 637	use muratic just have a pot of water nearby and do not leave it to long in the muratic . wear a mask when working with the acid

7th September 2008, 11:58 PM	#3
Spunjer Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Witness Protection Program Posts: 1,730	thanks ward. any suggestion on the muriatic/water ratio? and how long should i leave it in?

8th September 2008, 01:52 AM	#4
Battara EAAF Staff Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Louisville, KY Posts: 7,217	Shame about the chrome, I know they used to do this in the early and mid 20c as a way of preservation. They even did this to US Civil War blades.

8th September 2008, 02:26 AM	#5
Robert EAAF Staff Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Centerville, Kansas Posts: 2,196	If you are really lucky when they chromed the blade it was done in triple chrome: copper, nickel and then chrome. The copper will help protect the blade from the acid when you remove the chrome plating.

8th September 2008, 03:04 AM	#6
ward Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 637	if you are buying muratic that is used to clean pools use it undiluted. Leave it in to the count of a slow 10 dip it in water bring some x-fine steel wool across it rinse and shake excess water off and dip it again. keep repeating untill it is done. If you find it is not removeing change to the count of 20. watch muratic it is dangerous to work with and if you get the fumes in your lungs you can end up in hospital. Basically it is just dulitued sulperic and does not store well it weakens quickly especially with temperature changes use the left over to clean concrete do not dump it down drain

8th September 2008, 11:23 PM	#10
Battara EAAF Staff Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Louisville, KY Posts: 7,217	Kino, that is a really nice puppy.

12th September 2008, 06:06 AM	#12
Battara EAAF Staff Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Louisville, KY Posts: 7,217	I CALL FIRST DIBS ON KINO'S COLLECTION!

12th September 2008, 06:31 PM	#13
Jeff Pringle Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 189	Muriatic is a 33% dilution of hydrochloric acid, the main drawback/risk of using it is its propensity to form an acid fog that will coat every bit of steel (even stainless) in the room/building with a layer of very active rust, do not play with it in the same building your collection is housed in!! I once got to check out 12 brand-new stainless elevators that needed to be replaced when the flooring contractor washed the newly-laid granite floor with muriatic to remove grout residue... expensive!

12th September 2008, 06:41 PM	#14
Spunjer Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Witness Protection Program Posts: 1,730	thanks for the warning, jeff. i've decided that i will be doing this outdoors, hopefully this weekend, weather permitting...

12th September 2008, 08:09 PM	#15
ward Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 637	I do not disagree it is nasty to work with that is why I suggested a respirator it will eat thru the standard surgical gloves also and make you cough like a 90 year old

13th September 2008, 01:20 AM	#16
Lee EAAF Staff Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Upstate New York, USA Posts: 913	Unfortunately the surface prep for plating is kind of harsh if done to insure a lasting finish and the surface then takes another hit upon removal. You might be better off selling this one to someone who wants a shiny wall-hanger and putting the proceeds to an example with a less traumatic past. I have one large bolo which is chrome plated from the early 1970s. I bought it in a shop in Manila and presume that was the maker's intended finish in that case. It does well up on the wall.

4th December 2010, 06:17 PM	#18
Battara EAAF Staff Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Louisville, KY Posts: 7,217	What a stinking shame. It always bugs the crap out of me.

4th December 2010, 11:34 PM	#19
Robert EAAF Staff Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Centerville, Kansas Posts: 2,196	I know what you mean. That's why when I saw this I felt an obligation to try to put it back as close as possible to its original state. I'm just hoping that it turns out right. Robert

5th December 2010, 12:17 AM	#20
David Keris forum moderator Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Nova Scotia Posts: 7,113	I dunno if i would automatically sell off such a blade as a wall hanging. Frankly, while i would certainly prefer a chrome-less blade, Kino's example is still quite beautiful, one worth holding on to.... BTW....does anyone know if the evil spirit of the blade actually dispatched Kino, and if so just where i can go to pick up his collection...?

5th December 2010, 01:30 AM	#21
Robert EAAF Staff Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Centerville, Kansas Posts: 2,196	"BTW....does anyone know if the evil spirit of the blade actually dispatched Kino, and if so just where i can go to pick up his collection...?" It's a secret Kino was alive and well as of October but I don't think that I've seen him post anything since. That doesn't mean he hasn't been lurking around though. I wouldn't say the one I posted would be considered a wall hanger by any means but it would be nice to see it the way that it was meant to look instead of the way it looks now. Robert

5th December 2010, 02:01 AM	#22
Battara EAAF Staff Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Louisville, KY Posts: 7,217	Since I didn't have the acids to do this, I had to take off chrome on a piece I am restoring right now the old fashioned way - sanding and polishing by hand.

5th December 2010, 02:13 AM	#23
Robert EAAF Staff Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Centerville, Kansas Posts: 2,196	I have a friend that can remove the chrome by reverse plating but I will have to sand off the nickel myself. Then a light etch to see if there is any pattern present. The only real downside to this is that I have to take the sword completely apart. Robert

5th December 2010, 04:00 AM	#24
Battara EAAF Staff Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Louisville, KY Posts: 7,217	Actually I misspoke - I had to sand off nickel plating, not chrome. Chrome is easier to take off. Good luck Robert.

5th December 2010, 04:11 AM	#25
Robert EAAF Staff Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Centerville, Kansas Posts: 2,196	Jose, How did you remove the chrome on the one you are restoring? Robert

5th December 2010, 05:22 AM	#26
Battara EAAF Staff Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Louisville, KY Posts: 7,217	Well, it was actually nickel plating, and I had to use several different grades of sand paper by hand. Then I polished it. There are still places where the plating exists and I am debating whether to take those off or not. This was not as bad as a US Civil War foot officer's sword I restored for someone years ago that was double nickel plated. That one took a very long time.