sword maintenence

chevalier · 12th July 2008, 07:40 PM

does everyone use preservatives for their blades? ive been thinking about getting some linseed oil to coat mine with, as ive heard its enviromentally freindly.

what was/is "naval jelly"?

just curious as to what everyone uses for their own weapons upkeep.

Rick · 12th July 2008, 07:52 PM

Rennaisance Wax .

Rick

Rich · 12th July 2008, 08:05 PM

Ren wax for my non-Japanese items; choji oil for the Nihonto.
Simple 3 in 1 oil for some misc stuff.

DON"T USE NAVAL JELLY!! It is a gelatinized phosphoric acid -
it will eat you blades - literallly.

Rich S

Lew · 12th July 2008, 08:09 PM

Yes wax is the way to go even a good car wax will do.

Lew

Atlantia · 12th July 2008, 09:27 PM

A steady dry enviroment is an obvious important factor. I find that a good rub with a light oiled cloth (not leaving the blade oily as it'll attract dust and airborne particles, just removing any hand grease) and my swords are generally fine. The big enemy is the inquisitive fingers of visiting friends. Someone with acidic sweat can leave a permernant corroded fingerprint in good steel overnight.

Rub the steel with newspaper to remove any grease or dirt, then a lightly oiled cloth, then a clean cloth.

ward · 13th July 2008, 12:22 AM

I have seen more sword blades and chain mail trashed with navel jelly than anything else.Rennaisance Wax is very good but expensive. A cheaper alternative is butcher's bowling alley wax. linseed oil never dries and collects dust.

Chris Evans · 13th July 2008, 09:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chevalier

does everyone use preservatives for their blades? ive been thinking about getting some linseed oil to coat mine with, as ive heard its enviromentally freindly.

what was/is "naval jelly"?

just curious as to what everyone uses for their own weapons upkeep.

I have been using lanolin grease with good results. Not too expensive.

Cheers
Chris

kronckew · 13th July 2008, 10:14 PM

mineral oil is good for just about everything, discolors leather tho. is food safe if used on every day knives, camellia oil is also good i hear, but i can't find any in bulk here in gloucestershire. i generally wipe everything down once a month. i generally wipe wood down with a few coats of virgin olive oil, i does dry after a while. lanolin is good for horn grips. ballistol is good for steel, wood, leather but discolors brass. it's also edible. i've used paste waxes before but gravitate back to mineral oil.

naval jelly as above is nasty stuff, keep it at least a mile from any weapon. fine for eating the rust off 12" armour plate on a battleship, but has no place for anyone who posts here. do not flush down the drains either unless you want a big plumbing bill....

Lew · 13th July 2008, 10:27 PM

Ok

On pamored keris I use mineral oil mixed with jasmine on wootz I also use mineral oil if you use waxes on wootz there is a danger that the wax could strip the finish. For all others with cleaned light patina blades I use Bri-wax.

Jambiya=Briwax or Renaissance wax.

Keris=mineral oil

Axe with patina=Mineral oil

Wood=Briwax or Kiwi neutral paste shoe poliish sometimes brown to touch up badly weathered wood.

Horn=Renaissance wax or mineral oil very light coat wipe off after about 15-30 minutes.

Ivory=mineral oil. In the winter apply once every 6-8 weeks.

12th July 2008, 07:40 PM	#1
chevalier Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 119	sword maintenence does everyone use preservatives for their blades? ive been thinking about getting some linseed oil to coat mine with, as ive heard its enviromentally freindly. what was/is "naval jelly"? just curious as to what everyone uses for their own weapons upkeep.

12th July 2008, 07:52 PM	#2
Rick Vikingsword Staff Join Date: Nov 2004 Posts: 6,293	Oils Gather Dust Rennaisance Wax . Rick

13th July 2008, 10:27 PM	#9
Lew (deceased) Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: East Coast USA Posts: 3,191	Ok On pamored keris I use mineral oil mixed with jasmine on wootz I also use mineral oil if you use waxes on wootz there is a danger that the wax could strip the finish. For all others with cleaned light patina blades I use Bri-wax. Jambiya=Briwax or Renaissance wax. Keris=mineral oil Axe with patina=Mineral oil Wood=Briwax or Kiwi neutral paste shoe poliish sometimes brown to touch up badly weathered wood. Horn=Renaissance wax or mineral oil very light coat wipe off after about 15-30 minutes. Ivory=mineral oil. In the winter apply once every 6-8 weeks. Attached Images Last edited by LOUIEBLADES; 13th July 2008 at 10:41 PM.

12th July 2008, 08:05 PM	#3
Rich Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: comfortably at home, USA Posts: 432	Ren wax for my non-Japanese items; choji oil for the Nihonto. Simple 3 in 1 oil for some misc stuff. DON"T USE NAVAL JELLY!! It is a gelatinized phosphoric acid - it will eat you blades - literallly. Rich S

12th July 2008, 08:09 PM	#4
Lew (deceased) Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: East Coast USA Posts: 3,191	Yes wax is the way to go even a good car wax will do. Lew

12th July 2008, 09:27 PM	#5
Atlantia Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: The Sharp end Posts: 2,928	A steady dry enviroment is an obvious important factor. I find that a good rub with a light oiled cloth (not leaving the blade oily as it'll attract dust and airborne particles, just removing any hand grease) and my swords are generally fine. The big enemy is the inquisitive fingers of visiting friends. Someone with acidic sweat can leave a permernant corroded fingerprint in good steel overnight. Rub the steel with newspaper to remove any grease or dirt, then a lightly oiled cloth, then a clean cloth.

13th July 2008, 12:22 AM	#6
ward Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 637	I have seen more sword blades and chain mail trashed with navel jelly than anything else.Rennaisance Wax is very good but expensive. A cheaper alternative is butcher's bowling alley wax. linseed oil never dries and collects dust.

13th July 2008, 10:14 PM	#8
kronckew Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Room 101, Glos. UK Posts: 4,184	mineral oil is good for just about everything, discolors leather tho. is food safe if used on every day knives, camellia oil is also good i hear, but i can't find any in bulk here in gloucestershire. i generally wipe everything down once a month. i generally wipe wood down with a few coats of virgin olive oil, i does dry after a while. lanolin is good for horn grips. ballistol is good for steel, wood, leather but discolors brass. it's also edible. i've used paste waxes before but gravitate back to mineral oil. naval jelly as above is nasty stuff, keep it at least a mile from any weapon. fine for eating the rust off 12" armour plate on a battleship, but has no place for anyone who posts here. do not flush down the drains either unless you want a big plumbing bill....