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#1 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Germany, Dortmund
Posts: 8,726
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Hello members,
yesterday I bought by a online auction ![]() http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...=STRK:MEWNX:IT Unfortunately I am able to copy the pictures but my pc don't have a program to open this files so I don't know if I can attach pictures. When I look inside Cato at page 72 blades like this described as 18th Century kris. I want to ask the more knowledge members if I am correct by this. And I am wonder how the missing sheath tip will look like. My guess is that it have been like the one from Maurice: http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showth...highlight=moro The blade byself show nearly features of indonesian blades, is it's origin maybe the north of Kalimantan? I think that the handle pommel have been a small kakatua, what do you think? All comments are very welcome, Detlef |
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#2 |
Keris forum moderator
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 7,097
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Here you go Detlef. I resized these and brightened them up a bit.
I believe this does fit into the category we have come to know as archaic kris. Shame about the kakatau, but it looks like you got a good deal on this one. |
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#3 | |
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Germany, Dortmund
Posts: 8,726
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![]() ![]() Yes the broken kakatua is bad and will be the big problem by the restore. ![]() |
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#4 | |
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,818
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A nice buy and a great price. Do not dispair, time and patience will work wonders. I look forward to seeing the blade cleaned ![]() Gavin |
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#5 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 1,324
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Hi Detlef,
I really like these archaic blades. Great that you have one in your collection now. Congrats with your great find! Maurice |
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#6 |
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Germany, Dortmund
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Thank you Gavin and Maurice. I am surprised how clean the blade, still without corrosion. Any clue how the missing tip of the scabbard have to look?
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#7 |
EAAF Staff
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 7,189
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Nice catch. Yes this is a Sulu mid-18c kris. I think the hilt was added later, but still nice and a lot of work. Yes there was a buntut probably carved like the one I made when I made the scabbard for my 18c twistcore Sulu kris (or like Maurice's). If you need I can take a close up picture of the buntut of mine.
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#8 | |
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#9 |
EAAF Staff
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 7,189
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Ok Sajen, here is a close up of the toe as promised.
What type of wood did I use? Long ago I used stained walnut for the scabbard, but stained burled walnut for the wrangka. I also did the silver work. The buntut was made separately and joined to the scabbard. (Actually I used wood scraps I had lying around and I decided to make a scabbard for this kris out of them. ![]() |
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#10 | |
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#11 |
EAAF Staff
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 7,189
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Oh you are welcome. Please post your results!
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#12 |
Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA Georgia
Posts: 1,599
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Some old Moro kris - twist core
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#13 |
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 338
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older/18th century Sulu pieces like this are my absolute favourite! Thank you for sharing!
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#14 | |
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Of course I will post pictures of the results! ![]() |
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#15 | |
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#16 |
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA Georgia
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Sajen,
You have a really good old blade. Be proud of it! ![]() |
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#17 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Germany, Dortmund
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Today I received the kris and I am pleased with it. (and proud too
![]() ![]() The blade is very small in comparison with my other two kris. The pommel is broken at both sides. I have two questions and it would be nice to get some advices from you. The first: the blade have a nice old patination with nearly no rust. Do you would let the blade like this or you would polish it and stain it? The second: since the pommel is so badly broken I think about to cut it and let carve a new one, this would open also the possibility to attach a new silver band in up without open the binding. I have contact a dealer in the Philippines who see the possibility to let carve a new pommel. And what material you would choice for the pommel? Regards, Detlef |
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#18 |
EAAF Staff
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 7,189
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By all means, etch the piece - probably no need for polish, and get the pommel remade. Just make sure you get it back and that the carver does it according to old tribal standards.
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#19 | |
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Germany, Dortmund
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thank you for advice. What do you think, is it better to remove the handle (next problem: I don't know how) or cut it and hide the cut by a new silver band? I have nearly no experience with Moro kris restoration so all my stupid questions! ![]() |
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#20 |
EAAF Staff
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Louisville, KY
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Good question. You could cut the top and have the new pommel placed on top, with a new silver band.
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#21 |
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Join Date: Apr 2005
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Hello Detlef,
For a traditional repair job you will have to remove the binding; this example exhibits a fairly simple pattern but still I'd prefer to keep it despite some loose threads near the pommel. Quite a few pommels are socketed with a seperate piece of wood (of lesser quality hidden by the grip bindings/decorations). Usually these are secured by a wooden/bamboo pin - this will be tough to remove though (without some moving of the bindings). Can you peek under the loose thread to verify wether grip and pommel are seperate? If not, you could still saw off the pommel and craft a good fit when the new pommel arrives (the socket should be rectangular so that the pommel can't turn). It's not easy to get a good fit but certainly worth to spend some time on. BTW, I'd definitely go for a diminutive pommel; good quality bunti would be great. Regards, Kai |
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#22 |
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Hello Jose and Kai,
so far I can see is the grip made from one piece of wood and I think that it would be the best (like you both instigate) to cut the pommel and fix a new one and to coat this with a new silver band. I would like to keep the old binding. Of course have to look the new pommel daintily in old style. Thank you both for your help, Detlef |
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#23 |
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Louisville, KY
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I now have more time to answer: I agree with Kai 100%. I would add that the cord wrap would need to have another recoating of black lacquer.
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#24 |
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Join Date: Apr 2005
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Hello Detlef,
BTW, don't saw off the pommel until you receive the replacement hilt! I'd suggest to ask the carver to prepare the pommel with a rectangular socket and its final depth would determine where to saw off the damaged pommel. It's much easier to file the extending stump into a "nut" exactly fitting a given socket than having to carve the socket... Maybe it would be good to provide the carver with a cast so that the fit is going to be as close as possible? Regards, Kai |
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#25 | |
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Germany, Dortmund
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![]() BTW, I have tried a first etch, not very successful, the comlete blade get darkened. Any advise? Best, Detlef |
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#26 |
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The first step of restoration is done. The sheath has get a new buntut, a new tip at the back side of the crosspiece and the missing piece of wood down under the crosspiece is now filled up again. Ok, the old patina is gone but since I want to have a complete sheath again there was no other way.
What do you think? |
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#27 |
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Join Date: Jun 2008
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First class work!! Well done, it looks great.
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#28 | |
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#29 |
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Witness Protection Program
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good job on the scabbard, detlef! how's the kris coming along?
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#30 | |
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