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#1 |
Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Poole England
Posts: 441
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I have had this one for a while now without doing anything to it.
I would be greatful for suggestions on origin and for cleaning. Length is 62 inches. blade is 52 inches. Pommel apprears to be bone. Stirrups appear silver. The brown discolouration appears to be dried oil. As usual, all suggestions and comments are welcome. Thanks Roy |
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#2 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: The Sharp end
Posts: 2,928
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Very nice Roy,
Pommel looks like Ivory from the grain. |
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#3 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Greenville, NC
Posts: 1,855
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Super piece....and an OLD one!
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#4 |
EAAF Staff
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 7,200
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VERY NICE Sulu kris, though the scabbard throws me a little.
My biggest concern would be the active red rust - take that off first. |
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#5 |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,252
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Congrats, Roy, that certainly is a nice one! Did you get it out of the US?
The scabbard is a late replacement. I'm sure Jose can make a suitable one for this beauty. I agree that the rust needs to be removed. However, in this case this needs special efforts not to loose the remaining inlay (seems to be silver). I'd suggest to remove as much rust as possible by very careful picking in the engraved lines with already missing inlay (start with wooden picks and use fine iron pins if needed - avoid scratches from steel needles though); also use very fine steel wool for cleaning rust off the blade surface (take care around the katik/gangya area to evenly clean everything including - as much as possible - hidden crevices since you won't be able to disassemble the asang-asang). Once the blade looks almost clean, I'd give it a fine polish and continue with quickly staining the blade with hot vinegar (applied and rubbed in with a tough brush) which will also remove rust in tiny crevices, especially around the inlay. Even if you're really careful, there's still a good chance that some of the inlay may come off. However, this can be reapplied (take before and after pics to help solving the puzzle). You could also apply lacquer to protect the inlay (can be removed again later) but this would also protect any remaining rust and IMHO more risky in the long run. You may want to use this for protecting the surface of the asang-asang, the ferule, and the silver covering the katik though. BTW, the hole in the right-hand side of the ivory pommel probably once had an ivory peg securing it to the wooden core of the grip (this is usually a bit more hidden under the wrapping - just my best guess). Try to find a suitable piece of old ivory to replace it if possible. Regards, Kai |
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#6 |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,252
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Hello Roy,
I agree with the others that this obviously an above average datu piece displaying great Sulu craftmanship. I'm not sure it's older than, say, turn of the century though: Does it have a seperate katik? (Is it the line ending at the upper asang-asang? An odd position - if tough to tell, the laminations will reveal more after staining.) Regards, Kai |
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#7 | |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 608
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Hi Roy, Beautiful kris! I'm guessing the above measurements should read 62 cm and 52 cm, respectively... ![]() Open question to Jose, Kai, et al... what is the significance of the arrow motif (engraved on either side of the fullering running beyond the stirrups onto the gangya)? Or are those even arrows, i.e, are they simply stemmed zig-zags? ![]() |
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#8 | |
EAAF Staff
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 7,200
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#9 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Germany, Dortmund
Posts: 8,731
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Hello Roy,
beautiful kris, congrats. What is dried oil and what is rust? Would be much better when the engravings only have this oil inside and no rust. Much more easy to clean. Regards, Detlef |
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#10 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 180
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Always amazed at the depth of knowledge in regards to best approach to clean and restore these items (kai's step by step process). Much appreciated especially by a member such as myself who doesn't have access to experts in the field.
Awesome piece by the way. |
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#11 |
Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Poole England
Posts: 441
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Thanks everyone for you comments, especially to you Kai.
I have started cleaning and it is coming along nicely. More photos will follow as I go. A couple more questions and comments. What's the best product to polish the blade ? What's the best product for cleaning ivory ? The Keris was bought in the UK back in 92 ( I did say I had had it a while !! ) Regards Roy |
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#12 |
Vikingsword Staff
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,287
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I'm pretty sure that this sword is no more than a hundred yrs old .
A really nice high grade example of its time . |
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#13 | |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,252
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Hello Rick,
Quote:
Regards, Kai |
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#14 | ||
Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,252
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Hello Roy,
Quote:
Quote:
Regards, Kai |
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#15 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Greenville, NC
Posts: 1,855
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I wouldn't clean the ivory, and I wouldn't put lacquer ANYwhere. Lacquer may have a short term reward, but in the long term it will not do anything but diminish the value and likely the beauty.
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#16 | |
Keris forum moderator
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 7,100
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#17 | |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,252
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Hello Charles,
Quote:
I agree that the (limited) protection is usually not worth the effort and hassle (if you know what you're doing and can work fast). Regards, Kai |
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#18 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Greenville, NC
Posts: 1,855
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Never heard of mineral oil for ivory, but seems like a plausible idea David. It doesn't leave any stain on the ivory? I know some thinner oils will.
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#19 |
Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,818
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All ivory owners might find this useful...reference cited at the end;
Caring for Antique Ivory Ivory is extremely sensitive to humidity and temperature fluctuations. The most important factor is keeping conditions as constant as possible to prevent shrinking and expanding. Extreme conditions or rapid fluctuations should be avoided (something to consider if shipping your canes from one climate to another). It is suggested that the humidity level be maintained at a level between 45-55%, with a temperature of between 65-72 degrees. Too much moisture, i.e. over 70%, can cause mold and mildew damage, including black spots and etching of the surfaces, warping and swelling. Avoid direct heat or outside walls, cold windows or any source of moisture condensation (basements or attics). Avoid placing ivory pieces in direct sunlight. Direct sunlight raises the temperature and lowers the humidity, contributing to cracks and color change, specifically bleaching. Low light levels offers the best protection. Antique ivory should be handled with care. White gloves are suggested; if not available, wash your hands carefully to remove hand oils and dirt, as ivory darkens as a result of contact with skin oils. Some darkening, or patina, is the result of the natural aging process. Ivory is porous, and susceptible to staining, so keep separate from corroding materials and other colored materials. Methods of ivory hydration Ivory tends to dry out with age. The older the ivory, the more brittle. A very light vegetable oil can be used to hydrate directly (avoid on scrimshaw as inks may run). Also suggested, every 6 months or so, wrap ivory pieces in soft cloth saturated with mineral oil or glycerin. Allow to sit overnight and wipe off the excess in the morning. Cleaning ivory Never attempt to remove the surface coat pigment or patina, as it affords protection for the piece, and is an indication of age. Many liquids, including water and cleaning solutions, are destructive to ivory, and should be avoided. Applying water may cause swelling and cracking. Extremely dirty pieces should be referred to a professional conservator, as well as pieces that are dyed, pigmented or inlayed. When in doubt, consult with an expert. Dry cleaning methods may be attempted: Using a clean, soft paintbrush or toothbrush, carefully brush dirt off the object. Ivory that is in good condition should be cleaned and wiped gently with a soft, clean cloth. If dirt remains, but no cracks, using a solution of 50% ethyl alcohol and 50% distilled water, dip a Q-tip into the solution and blot on a piece of paper towel. Use this to clean a small, inconspicuous area, and dry immediately. If this goes well, clean the entire piece in this manner, working on one small piece at a time, and drying immediately.1 Remember: When in doubt, consult with a professional. 1 The Cane Collector’s Chronicle, Volume 4, Number 1, January, 1993. |
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#20 | |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Witness Protection Program
Posts: 1,730
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nah, bro... i saturate couple pieces of tissue paper with it, then use it to cover the ivory piece. put a ziploc bag on top of it, then secure it with rubber band.. |
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#21 |
Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Poole England
Posts: 441
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First cleaning photos. Blade only.
As suggested, it was performed with toothpicks, thin oil, very fine wire wool and emery. Although there is quite a bit of the silver missing, no more came out while I was cleaning. I am pleased with the results so far and will continue when I get more time. Regards Roy |
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#22 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 264
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Wow, awesome piece! Thanks for sharing. One of the best looking Krises I've seen in here.
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#23 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 1,324
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Great handsome blade Roy!
Maurice |
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#24 |
EAAF Staff
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 7,200
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Glad there wasn't a lot of corrosion on it! Nice work.
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#25 |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 327
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I have used Old English Furniture Oil on my ivory pieces for many years.
It will really bring out the natural colors of the ivory. It also works well on horn and antler. Don't use it on bone though, as it imparts a greasy look to the material........Dave |
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