They called to say that my check cleared and......

[Bill M]

Just realized I had been too busy drooling over this thread to post!!!!

Great score Albert, and a really deserving guy to get these fine pieces.



I have head that an epoxy called “JB Weld” has been successfully used in repairing metal.

I have not used this, but have friends in ancient weapon collecting who have been very pleased by the results. Of course it won’t stand up to battle standards, but it might be good enough for display and normal handling.

If it does not work, you could then try a blacksmith. I try to disturb old metal as little as possible.

http://jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php

Has anyone here used it?

[kino]

Thanks Bill, I will keep this in mind. I don't want to rush things. The Kris is going nowhere fast. I'm not going to be doing some test cutting with the sword either.

[David]

Originally Posted by Bill Marsh

I have head that an epoxy called “JB Weld” has been successfully used in repairing metal.

I have not used this, but have friends in ancient weapon collecting who have been very pleased by the results. Of course it won’t stand up to battle standards, but it might be good enough for display and normal handling.

If it does not work, you could then try a blacksmith. I try to disturb old metal as little as possible.

http://jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php

Has anyone here used it?

Bill, i have used JB Weld to repair a broken gonjo and it worked just fine...but i don't think i would use it in a situation like this unless i planned never to draw the blade from the sheath again. I am not convince it would hold all that weight that well.

[Battara]

Albert, I bow in your presence!

[VANDOO]

SOMEHOW I MISSED THIS POST THE FIRST TIME AROUND , SO BELATED CONGRADULATIONS!!

IT ALWAYS WARMS THE COCKELS OF MY HEART TO SEE A COLLECTOR GET ANOTHER COLLECTORS COLLECTION INTACT. A COLLECTION OF THIS TYPE REPRESENTS A LOT OF TIME, STUDY,WORK, MONEY AND LUCK TO PUT TOGETHER SO IT IS SORT OF LIKE A LIFES WORK. SO IT IS ESPECIALLY GOOD IF ANOTHER COLLECTOR CAN PICK IT UP AND CONTINUE TO ADD TO IT AND REFINE IT AS HIS LIFES WORK BEFORE PASSING ON THE COLLECTION FOR THE NEXT LAP OF THE RELAY.

OFTEN SUCH COLLECTIONS ARE BROKEN UP AND SOLD PIECEMEAL AND ALL THE INFORMATION AND WORK THAT WENT INTO MAKING IT IS LOST. IN THIS CASE THE COLLECTION OR AT LEAST A PART OF IT HAS REMAINED INTACT, UNFORTUNATELY ANY RECORDS ON WHERE AND WHEN THESE ITEMS WERE AQUIRED AND ANY OF THE HISTORY OF THE COLLECTOR WHO PUT IT TOGETHER IS USUALLY LOST. IF SUCH RECORDS EXHIST THEY USUALLY DON'T STAY WITH THE COLLECTION AND PROBABLY END UP IN THE DUST BIN.

THE BIGGEST PROBLEM I SEE WITH REPARING THE BROKEN KRIS TANG WILL BE REMOVING THE BROKEN PIECE FROM THE HANDLE WITHOUT DAMMAGING IT. IF YOU CAN SOMEHOW HEAT IT UP AND GET AHOLD OF IT AND PULL IT OUT WITHOUT DAMMAGE AND THEN HAVE IT ATTACHED BY A PRO THAT WOULD BE THE BEST WAY. IF IT IS IMPOSSIBLE TO REMOVE ANOTHER WAY TO FIX IT WOULD BE TO DRILL 3 SMALL HOLES IN THE BROKEN ENDS (MAKE SURE THEY LINE UP SO THE BLADE WILL FIT TOGETHER SNUG AND IN LINE. THEN PUT IN 3 PINS WITH EPOXY (CLEAN ANY EXCESS) AND LET THEM SET THEN CHECK TO MAKE SURE THE BLADE LINES UP RIGHT AND IF NOT MAKE ADJUSTMENTS BY CUTTING DOWN THE PINS OR DRILLING A BIT MORE. WHEN ALL LINES UP EPOXY THE BLADE TOGETHER AND PUT A CLAMP IF POSSIBLE TO HOLD UNTIL IT DRYS. THIS WOULD ATTACH THE TWO PIECES TOGETHER BUT WOULD BE A FRAGILE REPAIR AS THE PINS WILL BE VERY SMALL SO CARE WOULD HAVE TO BE TAKEN WHEN HANDELING THE ITEM IN FUTURE. I WOULD NOT USE J/B WELD AS IT IS THE COLOR OF SILVER PAINT AND CAN MAKE A MESS THAT IS DIFFICULT TO CLEAN UP OR REMOVE. THE SAFEST WAY WOULD BE TO JUST LAY IT IN A NICE PADDED CASE AND IT WOULD LOOK TO BE IN ONE PIECE SO ITS BEAUTY COULD STILL BE ENJOYED.
I ALSO BOW IN YOUR DIRECTION, YOU THE MAN

[Spunjer]

yo kino, have you fixed the krises yet???

[kino]

Got it repaired in April, the broken tang was not worth saving so it was replaced.
A brief summary of how it was repaired:
The way I restored it, I believe it's probably.stronger than the original tang was, I used a tungsten-carbide drill to drill two holes into the base area along the center line of the broken tang, to about 1/2 inch deep, then used two high strength, same size "Drill Rod" pins to run down into those two holes, and let them extend out of the broken area and into two matching holes that I drilled up into the new tang about one inch deep, then slid them together and glued all the parts in place with J.B.Weld. The J.B. Weld is good up to about 600 degrees, but each time it gets near there, it looses some of it's strength. I can use a low melt temp. epoxy to set the handle in place, if that's OK with you, and by doing that, heaven forbid, we will be able to remove the hilt if you ever need to sometime down the line.

I was very pleased with the outcome. Here are some photos.
Thanks for asking.

[Rick]

Nicely done !

[migueldiaz]

Originally Posted by kino

A brief summary of how it was repaired: ... I used a tungsten-carbide drill to drill two holes into the base area along the center line of the broken tang, to about 1/2 inch deep, then used two high strength, same size "Drill Rod" pins to run down into those two holes, and let them extend out of the broken area and into two matching holes that I drilled up into the new tang about one inch deep ...

The procedure reminded me of what my dentist did to my tooth once

Thanks for the update Kino! Nice job