Planning to make a wrongko

Johan van Zyl · 28th April 2017, 04:49 PM

I have thankfully made progress with the new gandar and part of the buntut. Please see the pic. The measurements at the point of the white Parker pen are: width: 47 mm (1,85 inch); thickness: 25 mm (1,0 inch). Measurements at the point of the blue Parker: width 42 mm (1,65 inch); thickness 20 mm (0,79 inch). I give these measurements because I am requesting your kind comments, as I do not have a complete Bugis scabbard to copy from. If you think I must take off some more wood to make this gandar typical, please offer advice. The buntut will lose a few millimetres in length when I prepare it for the little flange thingy, which will stick out a bit like a rim.

When I attached the buntut to the gandar, I used a two part epoxy glue. After that hardened, I carefully drilled four holes into the buntut from the end and glued four slender wooden dowels into place. This is to hold the job as securely as I know how. Incidentaly, the original antique piece of gandar has four little pinholes too.

Now the bad news: Having come far with the gambar (you saw the previous pic), I found myself coming up against a brick wall. I knew I could not carry on with the gambar in laminated form! I should have known the four-piece lamination was a lamentably bad idea! Why it sucked so abyssmally is that when I started carving what David called the "nuances", the outer laminations caused haphazard patterns to emerge - too awful for words. So, in disgust I scrapped the gambar. Now I am searching for a nice piece of dark wood to start the gambar afresh.

I will once again make the gambar by lamination, but ONLY in two pieces glued in the centre. I'll have to find wood thick enough for this purpose. Following Alan's advice, I'll use epoxy glue for this.

Rick · 28th April 2017, 07:44 PM

I think 1.75 inch thick stock should be about right.

A. G. Maisey · 28th April 2017, 10:42 PM

Why make the gambar in two halves Johan?

I do not understand why you would do this.

Johan van Zyl · 29th April 2017, 10:52 AM

Rick, I'll first reply to Alan, then come to your suggestion.

Alan, I might have a few reasons. Firstly, I have some arthritis in my thumbs, with the result I cannot grip tools as tightly as I used to. I saw with my first failed attempt to fashion a gambar that it was my use of hand-held tools that gave me the most difficulty. Using the angle grinder to open the space for the blade in a two-piece gambar was a cinch - I found I could manage the process well enough. The fit was near perfect. (It was the extra outer laminations that caused the gambar's downfall.) I can duplicate my success in the new gambar if I could use the same technique. I recall what you wrote about the special tools the keris makers used, but in my crude workshop there's no such apparatus. I have been making do with limited means for a long time now. But perhaps that's not the only reason. Maybe it's more important for me to craft a beautiful wrongko by any means available to me, even by unconventional methods, as long as that item gives me satisfaction upon completion. I find the two-piece gambar OK in my book. I hate to perhaps sadden you by saying I don't mind shying away somewhat from the traditional way of making a gambar, but I've got to do what works for me. Now the correct dimensions: that's of utmost importance to me! I need my project to look right.

Rick, you suggest 1,75 inch stock. Thanks, but could I ask that someone who has a Bugis scabbard kindly provide a pic or two showing the gambar edge-on? That's so I can see how to shape the "ship's" "prow" and "stern". I think the prow is rounded, while the stern seems to be rather flat. (Jean posted a nice pic, and thanks, but that was in conventional view and does not show what I need to see.)

A. G. Maisey · 29th April 2017, 12:57 PM

Thank you Johan for taking the time to explain your reasons for working as you do.

I understand, and sympathise with you for the difficulties you must endure in completing this project.

Jean · 29th April 2017, 02:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Johan van Zyl

Thanks, but could I ask that someone who has a Bugis scabbard kindly provide a pic or two showing the gambar edge-on? That's so I can see how to shape the "ship's" "prow" and "stern". I think the prow is rounded, while the stern seems to be rather flat. (Jean posted a nice pic, and thanks, but that was in conventional view and does not show what I need to see.)

Hello Johan,
Can this pic of an old and traditional sampir from Sulawesi help you?
Regards

Johan van Zyl · 30th April 2017, 11:49 AM

This is excellent! Thank you, Rick & Jean! What I'm seeing is a gambar that is not so exquisitely shaped than what I had imagined. The single engraved groove (both sides) running up to the top is no more than a straight line: easy to carve. I note the sides running up to the "prow" are quite flat, as are the sides running to the "stern". If this is a acceptable example of a Bugis gambar, I see no reason for me to try and sculpt something more elaborate. Actually, I'm feeling relieved to see these pics - I can go ahead with my tools and limited expertise and expect my gambar to look at least as good.

One more request, if you please: What is the maximum width of the gambar? If I may use ship terms: How wide is the boat in the centre from gunwale to gunwale? This is important for me to know.

Scouring my woodpile for material for a new gambar, I was unfortunate in that I found nothing thick enough I could use. This week I'm going to have to seek out some bits of wood from commercial sources: perhaps Burmese teak, stinkwood or walnut.

For your interest: In 1985 I fashioned buttplates for a .357 Magnum Dakota revolver from Cape buffalo horn. This sixgun is an engraved clone of the Colt Peacemaker of 1873, with a 5 3/4 inch barrel. An article about the making of these buttplates appeared in our gun magazine "Magnum" in that year. Some time afterwards I made buttplates of stinkwood for a Frontier model in .357, and also buttplates of wild olive for a 7 1/2 inch barrelled Uberti single-action. These woods, as well as the buffalo horn, are a pleasure to work with. I will say no more - this was off topic (sorry David) - and please don't think I am blowing my trumpet, I just thought recalling these past projects, in the light of my wrongko project, would be of interest to you all.

Rick · 30th April 2017, 03:06 PM

the width at that point is just shy of 1 inch, Johan. If you need any other pictures let me know.
Glad to be of assistance with your project.

28th April 2017, 04:49 PM	#1
Johan van Zyl Member Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: I live in Gordon's Bay, a village in the Western Cape Province in South Africa. Posts: 126	I have thankfully made progress with the new gandar and part of the buntut. Please see the pic. The measurements at the point of the white Parker pen are: width: 47 mm (1,85 inch); thickness: 25 mm (1,0 inch). Measurements at the point of the blue Parker: width 42 mm (1,65 inch); thickness 20 mm (0,79 inch). I give these measurements because I am requesting your kind comments, as I do not have a complete Bugis scabbard to copy from. If you think I must take off some more wood to make this gandar typical, please offer advice. The buntut will lose a few millimetres in length when I prepare it for the little flange thingy, which will stick out a bit like a rim. When I attached the buntut to the gandar, I used a two part epoxy glue. After that hardened, I carefully drilled four holes into the buntut from the end and glued four slender wooden dowels into place. This is to hold the job as securely as I know how. Incidentaly, the original antique piece of gandar has four little pinholes too. Now the bad news: Having come far with the gambar (you saw the previous pic), I found myself coming up against a brick wall. I knew I could not carry on with the gambar in laminated form! I should have known the four-piece lamination was a lamentably bad idea! Why it sucked so abyssmally is that when I started carving what David called the "nuances", the outer laminations caused haphazard patterns to emerge - too awful for words. So, in disgust I scrapped the gambar. Now I am searching for a nice piece of dark wood to start the gambar afresh. I will once again make the gambar by lamination, but ONLY in two pieces glued in the centre. I'll have to find wood thick enough for this purpose. Following Alan's advice, I'll use epoxy glue for this. Attached Images

28th April 2017, 07:44 PM	#2
Rick Vikingsword Staff Join Date: Nov 2004 Posts: 6,291	I think 1.75 inch thick stock should be about right.

28th April 2017, 10:42 PM	#3
A. G. Maisey Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 6,888	Why make the gambar in two halves Johan? I do not understand why you would do this.

29th April 2017, 10:52 AM	#4
Johan van Zyl Member Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: I live in Gordon's Bay, a village in the Western Cape Province in South Africa. Posts: 126	Rick, I'll first reply to Alan, then come to your suggestion. Alan, I might have a few reasons. Firstly, I have some arthritis in my thumbs, with the result I cannot grip tools as tightly as I used to. I saw with my first failed attempt to fashion a gambar that it was my use of hand-held tools that gave me the most difficulty. Using the angle grinder to open the space for the blade in a two-piece gambar was a cinch - I found I could manage the process well enough. The fit was near perfect. (It was the extra outer laminations that caused the gambar's downfall.) I can duplicate my success in the new gambar if I could use the same technique. I recall what you wrote about the special tools the keris makers used, but in my crude workshop there's no such apparatus. I have been making do with limited means for a long time now. But perhaps that's not the only reason. Maybe it's more important for me to craft a beautiful wrongko by any means available to me, even by unconventional methods, as long as that item gives me satisfaction upon completion. I find the two-piece gambar OK in my book. I hate to perhaps sadden you by saying I don't mind shying away somewhat from the traditional way of making a gambar, but I've got to do what works for me. Now the correct dimensions: that's of utmost importance to me! I need my project to look right. Rick, you suggest 1,75 inch stock. Thanks, but could I ask that someone who has a Bugis scabbard kindly provide a pic or two showing the gambar edge-on? That's so I can see how to shape the "ship's" "prow" and "stern". I think the prow is rounded, while the stern seems to be rather flat. (Jean posted a nice pic, and thanks, but that was in conventional view and does not show what I need to see.)

29th April 2017, 12:57 PM	#5
A. G. Maisey Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 6,888	Thank you Johan for taking the time to explain your reasons for working as you do. I understand, and sympathise with you for the difficulties you must endure in completing this project.

30th April 2017, 11:49 AM	#7
Johan van Zyl Member Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: I live in Gordon's Bay, a village in the Western Cape Province in South Africa. Posts: 126	This is excellent! Thank you, Rick & Jean! What I'm seeing is a gambar that is not so exquisitely shaped than what I had imagined. The single engraved groove (both sides) running up to the top is no more than a straight line: easy to carve. I note the sides running up to the "prow" are quite flat, as are the sides running to the "stern". If this is a acceptable example of a Bugis gambar, I see no reason for me to try and sculpt something more elaborate. Actually, I'm feeling relieved to see these pics - I can go ahead with my tools and limited expertise and expect my gambar to look at least as good. One more request, if you please: What is the maximum width of the gambar? If I may use ship terms: How wide is the boat in the centre from gunwale to gunwale? This is important for me to know. Scouring my woodpile for material for a new gambar, I was unfortunate in that I found nothing thick enough I could use. This week I'm going to have to seek out some bits of wood from commercial sources: perhaps Burmese teak, stinkwood or walnut. For your interest: In 1985 I fashioned buttplates for a .357 Magnum Dakota revolver from Cape buffalo horn. This sixgun is an engraved clone of the Colt Peacemaker of 1873, with a 5 3/4 inch barrel. An article about the making of these buttplates appeared in our gun magazine "Magnum" in that year. Some time afterwards I made buttplates of stinkwood for a Frontier model in .357, and also buttplates of wild olive for a 7 1/2 inch barrelled Uberti single-action. These woods, as well as the buffalo horn, are a pleasure to work with. I will say no more - this was off topic (sorry David) - and please don't think I am blowing my trumpet, I just thought recalling these past projects, in the light of my wrongko project, would be of interest to you all.

30th April 2017, 03:06 PM	#8
Rick Vikingsword Staff Join Date: Nov 2004 Posts: 6,291	the width at that point is just shy of 1 inch, Johan. If you need any other pictures let me know. Glad to be of assistance with your project.