British pipeback parabolic blade saber c. 1801

kronckew · 10th December 2020, 08:18 AM

The wide bladed Prosser (and Wilkes) versions allow for a decent cutting geometry - a finer, sharper edge angle. The narrower the blade, the steeper the angle you need to sharpen it to keep the spine from getting in the way of the stone. You can have a 'razor' sharp edge but if the edge angle is too great, it will not cut well.

The Prosser style blade width allows a deeper slice before the added friction of the spine lessens the cut effectiveness.

The Wilkes version further improves the cut by removing the 'pipe' in the most effective cutting are near the point. Many swords are only sharpened in the first third to half of the blade from the tip, which is where you would normally cut - the rest unsharpened to improve notching resistance during a parry - and the Wilkes tip would allow that part to make a deeper cut after the further section initiated it during a draw cut, or a deeper push cut with the tip initiating.

Bryce, those two swords, Mameluke/1796lc style pipes, are gorgeous. I shall put purchasing similar ones on my bucket list.

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search
Display Modes
Switch to Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Threaded Mode

10th December 2020, 08:18 AM	#19
kronckew Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Room 101, Glos. UK Posts: 4,215	The wide bladed Prosser (and Wilkes) versions allow for a decent cutting geometry - a finer, sharper edge angle. The narrower the blade, the steeper the angle you need to sharpen it to keep the spine from getting in the way of the stone. You can have a 'razor' sharp edge but if the edge angle is too great, it will not cut well. The Prosser style blade width allows a deeper slice before the added friction of the spine lessens the cut effectiveness. The Wilkes version further improves the cut by removing the 'pipe' in the most effective cutting are near the point. Many swords are only sharpened in the first third to half of the blade from the tip, which is where you would normally cut - the rest unsharpened to improve notching resistance during a parry - and the Wilkes tip would allow that part to make a deeper cut after the further section initiated it during a draw cut, or a deeper push cut with the tip initiating. Bryce, those two swords, Mameluke/1796lc style pipes, are gorgeous. I shall put purchasing similar ones on my bucket list.