18th August 2008, 09:13 AM | #1 |
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Sulu kris
G'day
Would this be a middle period or archaic period kris? Pre 1850's? To me, a piece with some prescense regardless. I have stained kris. Kind regards to all, Daniel |
18th August 2008, 12:43 PM | #2 |
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Nice shapes.
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18th August 2008, 01:54 PM | #3 |
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HelloDaniel, could you post a close up of the gangya area, I think that this will help to understand better the age of your kris
Regards FLavio |
18th August 2008, 02:17 PM | #4 |
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Thanks for your interest Flavio.
Blade is light, 22 oz Blade length 20 1/16 in Overall length 24 3/4 in To me, it is craft and art. If all these photos are too many I will delete if required. I have included some pre stain photos. The blade also has a slight swollen tip. Cheers Dan |
18th August 2008, 08:34 PM | #5 |
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Looks to be what I would put in the transition category. I say early 1800's. This
thread; http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showthread.php?t=6853 might be of interest. A very similiar kris. |
19th August 2008, 02:45 AM | #6 |
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I agree with MROSS and definitely Sulu with the front part of the ganga and the style used in the ferrule.
A great piece - congratulations! BTW - the scabbard is later. |
19th August 2008, 05:04 AM | #7 |
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beautiful kris sundang (Malay term). Congrats Scratch
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19th August 2008, 05:12 AM | #8 |
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Hi Scratch,
I don't mean to criticise but the stain looks all wrong . I'm so sorry to bring this up . What did you stain the blade with ? |
19th August 2008, 05:46 AM | #9 |
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I suspect that scratch may have used arsenic and lime like he did with his "Balinese" keris. If so Scratch, that would be a "mistake" of sorts. Vinegar would give a more "correct" result for a Moro kris.
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19th August 2008, 12:25 PM | #10 |
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Thank you for your interest and imput Gentlemen
Were kris pruduced by empu? I find the quality and artistry a testament to the skill of its maker. Battara, thanks for the Sulu confirmation Rick, no problems, I was waiting for the hammer to fall David, Spot on I thought some of the metal looked like it was designed to take a pamor stain. I wondered if such cross polination of staining etching techniques could have been used in period. Curiosity got the better of me and these are the result.I was surprised to get result. I mean no disrespect by my use of warangan on this blade. To me it look quite stunning in hand, camoflaged too Thanks for your replies Mross, Hello PenangsangII What are the geometric sparkles/crystals in blade? Thanks for the communication, Dan |
19th August 2008, 01:57 PM | #11 | |
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Quote:
Good looking kris there! Here is an earlier thread related with your question: http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showthread.php?t=5092 |
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19th August 2008, 04:57 PM | #12 |
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thanks for posting the pics, scratch. our handles are pretty similar. i really like the weaving pattern done on the handle.
i always wonder if the tail on the pommel broke off, but then again, for something that doesn't even protrude that much, why would it even break? i've thought about perhaps it was design that way to begin with... |
20th August 2008, 03:00 AM | #13 |
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Nice Sulu kris there. Good catch!! Yup, I must agree that most Moro kris do not have good results after using arsenic (warangan) as it may turn splotchy at some areas. Very dirty look. But personnal I have seen only one piece which turn out to be very outstanding after using warangan etching.
I am also curious about the bottom stem. I think this is not common. |
20th August 2008, 03:29 AM | #14 |
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And to make the point, Moro did not use arsenic......
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23rd August 2008, 04:15 PM | #15 |
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G'day
Tunggulametung, Thanks for the link! That is what I was looking for. A beautiful piece Spunger! Thank you for sharing. I find kakatua/cockatoo pommel visually appealing. I recall some lovely barongs you posted, I think. Newsteel and Battarra, Thanks for your historical accuracy, And I take the point about blochiness Piece can easily be rendered stain free I think. Scabbard has received some restoration to lower half I think Thank you for your time, Kind regards, Daniel |
23rd August 2008, 07:08 PM | #16 |
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Use 220 or 240 grit sand paper (no lower) and that will get the stain off, but then you can restain with lime juice or ferrous cloride (low concentration).
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