![]() |
![]() |
#1 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,217
|
![]()
Here is an interesting massive Sundang that I just acquired; as you can see, there is a lot going on in the blade. The handle is in bad disrepair.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 | |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 327
|
![]() Quote:
|
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,217
|
![]()
Thanks Dave, I thought it could be post WW2, but it is of pretty good quality; are the inlays silver ? It is a distinctive blade; any way of knowing who made it ?
It would be great seeing yours, intact.Any chance ? |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Germany, Dortmund
Posts: 8,726
|
![]()
Hello Drac2k,
yes, agree with Dave, a post WWII blade of nice quality, the sharp luks indicate it as later blade. If the inlays are from silver you only can test byself with silver test or let it test by a jeweler. Like Dave said there is a dealer who sell time by time nice handles but maybe you can grind it down to a form like this one from my own collection: http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showthread.php?t=12825 Handle wrapping can be done easily, the biggest concern will be the missing asang-asang. Regards, Detlef |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,235
|
![]()
In original auction listing it was going as part of the William Herbert McGinty collection. Collected between the late 1800's and early 1900's, in storage since 1930's.
I don't thrust auction descriptions much, and it looks like quite later then early 1900's kris to me also, yet could we expect a separate Ganja on a post WWII example? It seems to be evident that pointy luks appeared already around 1900: http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showth...aranao+sundang Last edited by Gustav; 29th April 2014 at 01:46 PM. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,235
|
![]()
Related blades of some interest:
http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showth...0940#post70940 http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showth...ight=naga+kris |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,217
|
![]()
Wow, the picture shown looks very much like mine ; it could be it's brother. With the distinctive blade, could it have been made by the same "sword smith ," or a family member?
Now, I am confused; generally as a rule of thumb, I thought that the larger kris , with sharp luk(s), were WW2 or later .I have seen old postings from the Smithsonian with such swords attributed to being brought back from the Moro Insurrections, but as we all know, even museums get things wrong : so I thought ,maybe they made a mistake .At this time, I am not so sure . Great information coming in from the forum ! |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#8 | |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,252
|
![]()
Congrats, a very good bargain you got there!
Quote:
I don't think we'll be able to pin down the panday who crafted this blade - it's probably more like a recognizable style which was in fashion during an extended period and possibly crafted by a number of (possibly unrelated) bladesmiths. At least there are varying qualities if you compare several similar pieces. I'm fairly convinced that the inlay is silver. If it tarnishes like silver a while after polishing, you probably won't need to test it. Brass inlay is more difficult to work with and this is quality work done for a customer who could afford to pay for silver. I believe that Detlef's sugggestion to recarve the remaining pommel is certainly worth a try. Get Jose to do some metal bands for the gripping area if you like to restore the original appearance as much as possible. Are you going to etch the blade? I believe it could be worth it! Regards, Kai |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#9 | |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,252
|
![]()
Hello Gustav,
Quote:
I agree that auction listings have to be taken with a lump of salt. However, this kris is of very decent quality and, even with only the pics to go by, I'd suggest a pre-1930 origin. As you already mentioned, there are more examples that are pretty much in line with this example, especially if we assume that "early 1900's" is not meant very strictly... Regards, Kai |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#10 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,217
|
![]()
Thanks for the additional information, Kai. I never believe what is stated in an auction listing.I did get this kris and others(I also got outbid on some good ones), from the recent auction of items from the William Herbert Mcginty Collection.I can tell you that he had some great stuff! This was the second offering of his items and what I thought was my best kept secret until it was posted on this forum calling all members to arms.Even though I did better on the first listing(different auctioneer), I was pleased with the results.
In regards to etching, I am not experienced enough to try and I rather not harm an item, which by luck has been placed in my care. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#11 | |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 327
|
![]() Quote:
|
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#12 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,217
|
![]()
Great blade and great handle ! Thanks for the info.After reading all of the threads, I could go either way, but now I'm leaning towards the 1930's theory ; either way, I'm happy with the kris .
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#13 |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Kaboejoetan Galoenggoeng Mélben
Posts: 458
|
![]()
redundancy
Last edited by Amuk Murugul; 30th April 2014 at 06:12 AM. Reason: redundancy |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#14 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Greenville, NC
Posts: 1,855
|
![]()
Hi Drac and Dave,
Regarding age, Dave your example is made without a separate 'ganja' and I do believe that one is a later one, but Drac's example has the separate ganja and the workmanship(chiseling and silver inlay) seems a bit crisper, though the curves do seem awfully 'extreme' for an earlier example. I think that example is more likely early 20th century though the blade's exaggerated curves, especially at the forte, seem to argue against it a bit. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#15 | |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 327
|
![]() Quote:
|
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#16 | |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Germany, Dortmund
Posts: 8,726
|
![]() Quote:
![]() |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#17 |
Keris forum moderator
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 7,098
|
![]()
Gentleman, is it beyond reason to believe that a post WWII kris could be crafted WITH a separate gangya? Sure, it's probably a rare occurrence, but then so is a pre-WWII kris with pointy luks. Another clue might be found in the metal itself. Is this laminated or mono steel? I'm fairly certain that is just design work and that this is not a twisted core. Can't really see any definite lines of lamination throughout either. If it is mono steel AND has pointy luks i would be more inclined to a later dating.
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#18 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 1,083
|
![]()
What I find interesting about Dave's kris is that it has a mixture of sharp pointy luk and more typical late 19th, early 20th century smoother flowing luk. If you look at all the pictures, not all the luk are pointy. In my experience, the later pieces have ALL pointy luk. I think the provenance is solid enough on this piece. To name an individual and the fact that the items were in storage since the 1930's I don't think was provided loosely. Auction houses rarely list that kind of provenance. If they didn't have a certain degree of certainty I don't think they would have mentioned that. Then again, I have seen auction houses out and out lie but I don't think that is the norm, I think that tends to be the exception. I think they misidentify way, way more but in this particular case I would have more confidence in the provenance and would say this kris is 1900-1920. Without the provenance, I personally would have placed that sword circa 1930-40 so we are only talking a 20-30 year difference. Where did the dating philosophy of pointy luk originate? Has it ever been challenged? Are there other provenance examples that show pointy luk that pre-date WW2? I think this piece stands on its own and whether it is 1920 or 1950 is pretty inconsequential to its appeal as is.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#19 | |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Greenville, NC
Posts: 1,855
|
![]() Quote:
I learned a long time ago that as soon as we make "rules" about things such as origins, age, terminology, etc., within no time something will come along to challenge the 'rule', so I am always open to possibilities of variations, and "no rules" when it comes to analyzing things now...I am sure you know what I mean!...and this certainly could apply to this kriss. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#20 | |
Keris forum moderator
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 7,098
|
![]() Quote:
I would still be interested to know if this blade is laminated or mono steel. Drac2k, you don't need to be particularly skilled to do a mild etch on this blade. Vinegar can act as a gentle etching agent, enough at least to show laminations in the blade if they exist. It is also very easy to polish the effect off. Kind of hard to ruin the blade with this method. I still think knowing whether it is laminated or mono steel will go a long way in helping top determine the age of this kris. While i think there are some examples out there of older mono steel pieces, most older kris are laminated and most recent examples tend to be mono steel. Again, if it is indeed mono steel AND has pointy luks it seems a good indication for a later dating. ![]() |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#21 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,217
|
![]()
Thanks for the information.I bought an old Philippine blade in poor condition to explore etching.Do you use white, wine, cider, etc. vinegar.Do you soak it or brush it on? How long do you leave it on ? Do you neutralize it with baking soda when finished . Is there any treatment afterwards.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#22 | |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Germany, Dortmund
Posts: 8,726
|
![]() Quote:
Regards, Detlef |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#23 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,217
|
![]()
What percentage of vinegar essence to water; 50/ 50, 25%/75% ? Do you mix them in a pan and heat ? Do you brush on the mixture and steel wool immediately or do you let it sit until you see a reaction and then steel wool after rinsing with water and neutralizing it with baking soda ?
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#24 | |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Germany, Dortmund
Posts: 8,726
|
![]() Quote:
![]() ![]() ![]() Use the search function with etch/etching and you will find other recipes also. Regards, Detlef Last edited by Sajen; 2nd May 2014 at 06:59 AM. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#25 | |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 1,083
|
![]() Quote:
Dave, one test that Spunjer uses prior to an etch is simply to run some hot water on the blade for a few minutes and watch closely. He can see the laminations in the blade this way. Of course, as soon as you take away the hot water they go away. As far as dating this sword, I still remain fairly confident in the provenance provided by the auction house. Pre 1930 based on that. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#26 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,217
|
![]()
Thanks for the added tips, especially the one about waiting for the wife to leave before trying the etching .Does it smell badly; maybe I'll buy some candles to hide the after effect.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#27 | |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Germany, Dortmund
Posts: 8,726
|
![]() Quote:
![]() ![]() ![]() |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#28 |
EAAF Staff
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 7,200
|
![]()
When etching make sure that there is a breeze - these chemicals can do lung and organ damage.
And if you take a bath at least once a month, some of the other smells go away too... ![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#29 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 80
|
![]()
To provide some more background on the items in the sale. While I am not a specialist in Philippines or Southeast Asian items, I was able to view all of the pieces that went up for sale and know the auctioneer who is also not a specialist in Southeast Asian or Philippines items, or arms and armor in general.
All of the items that came from the collection of William McGinty collection were collected in the late 19th C. - early 20th C. and were packed away in the late 1920s. The auctioneer actually assisted in unpacking the items out of crates that the pieces were kept in for several decades and they were all wrapped in old newspapers dated to the late 1920s-early 1930s. I leave the discussions of style and form to the specialists but all of the items provenanced to the McGinty collection were collected in the early 20th C. at the latest. That is more than can be said of 99% of the pieces on the market so I hope that it provides some interesting dating material for the specialists on these boards. Best regards L |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|