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#1 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 865
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Hello all,
I just thought I would toss this out for interest: What kind of oil/ rust preventative do you use to preserve your blades? Here are the few different things I've heard of others using.... Clove Oil Camellia oil Ballistol CRC 556 INOX Tuf Cloth Feel free to add any thoughts on pros and cons of any... Thanks, Nathaniel |
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#2 |
Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: between work and sleep
Posts: 731
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human fat from my head-hunting victims...
![]() I am absolutely no-doubt-about-it serious ![]() I use camelia oil, it's really easy to use, and not expensive. Last edited by KuKulzA28; 23rd November 2009 at 01:53 AM. |
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#3 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: What is still UK
Posts: 5,773
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Human fat! I love it. Cannot beat it. I rub my favourite Oceanic clubs across my bald head. Am I sick?
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#4 |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: France
Posts: 472
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WD40
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#5 |
Vikingsword Staff
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,285
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That's mainly for water displacement .
WD = water displacement 40 = formula # 40, or fortieth try before they got it right . ![]() ![]() It is made from modified fish oil . Do you apply it frequently ? |
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#6 | |
Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 2,222
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![]() Quote:
![]() ![]() This weekend I saw someone rub his NOSE across an brass shield and than start to polish it for the warm glow. So you are not alone. ![]() In the past I have used sewing machine oil, as it has hardly any smell and i easily spread over the surface. Nowadays I use oil that they sell in bicycle shops to oil your bike and it does pretty much the same, except it smells like oil. ![]() On keris blades that are stored I often apply some acid free vaseline, as oil tends to evaporate, causing you to find a rusty keris blade afte a year or so. |
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#7 | |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: France
Posts: 472
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It works really good, protects metal from rust and corrosion.
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#8 | |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: The Sharp end
Posts: 2,928
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Absolutely. Well I tend to use a cheaper mineral oil equivilent from the 'pound shop'. Clean them good then rub them hard with an aerosol penetrating oil. |
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#9 |
Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: In the wee woods north of Napanee Ontario
Posts: 391
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I don't use oil on any of my collection, messy and gets where you don't want it and gravity pulls it down. Boiled Linseed oil has chemicals in it so it hardens and dries, raw never dries. WD40 is a moisture remover and evaporates later leaving no protection.
Microcrystalline wax works best and you can warm the object to have it bond with the metal and fill all crevices large and microscopic. The Katrina flood left many collections submerged. It was found that items treated with Renaissance Wax faired best. |
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