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#1 |
Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 59
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If a keris keeps getting new rust spots even though you've cleaned it thoroughly with WD 40 and it looks clean afterward, is it reasonable to suspect the warangka is polluted? Perhaps the mranggi who last did the job on the warangka accidentally dropped some sweat inside?
Assuming you do need to clean a warangka, what would you do aside from calling a mranggi? Is there any quick home-fix solution to remove salt and other debris from the interior of the warangka? By the way, selamat Idul Fitri untuk semua yang merayakan ![]() Edit P.S.: I've searched the forum and I found that having some "plastic condom" to wrap over the blade to be a good idea to protect a blade from polluted warangka. However, it just feels more comfortable to be certain that the warangka is safe and clean ... especially if you want to bring the keris outside and be seen by others, it will look better without the condom ![]() |
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#2 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Germany, Dortmund
Posts: 8,726
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Hello Neo,
selamat Idul Fitri. You will find a good description from Alan how to clean a sheath in this thread: http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showthread.php?t=11844 There you can also see how good it works. Regards, Detlef |
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#3 |
Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 6,852
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I think that was mostly about the outside of a wrongko, wasn't it?
To do the inside I use .22 & .17 rifle cleaning rods with bronze brush, followed by bristle brush. If the build up of filthy wood is too bad I use a segrek, which is like a sort of reverse saw. I'll post a pic of one later. You can get into the top of the wrongko with scrapers or chisels to do a clean up. To get rid of the dust inside, a thin piece of copper pipe long enough to reach the bottom of the gandar will allow you to blow it out. |
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#4 |
Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 59
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Thanks, Guys ... Looking forward to that photo.
By the way, is it a bad idea to quickly rinse the interior with 95% alcohol? I'm thinking that since alcohol is evaporative, most of the stuff will vaporize anyway, leaving the interior clean. |
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#5 |
Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 6,852
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Why bother?
I don't see that it would do any good. |
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#6 |
Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 6,852
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Here's pics of the tools to work inside a wrongko.
The segrek cuts on the draw stroke, I forged this one out of a car coil spring. The knife is designed to get inside the top of the wrongko, I forged this from an old chisel. The copper tube is pinched together at the end to increase [pressure of air blown through it |
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#7 | |
Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 459
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Wood absorbs liquid. |
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#8 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 2
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Regarding the use of the blowpipe / straw to remove the dust from the inside : close your eyes when blowing or wear safety glasses , the dust will get in your eyes otherwise . Don't ask , been there and it is very irritating .
Regards F. |
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#9 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Germany, Dortmund
Posts: 8,726
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[QUOTE=A. G. Maisey]I think that was mostly about the outside of a wrongko, wasn't it?
Yes, it was. Sorry, I don't read the titel and text carefully and to fast! ![]() |
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#10 |
Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 59
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Pak Sajen: No problemo
![]() Mr. Maisey: Thanks. I haven't seen any store selling gun maintenance equipments, but for now I think some nipple-cleaning brush (for baby milk bottles, I definitely need to clarify ![]() |
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#11 |
Vikingsword Staff
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,287
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Neo, I'm not so sure a plastic bristle brush will do much good .
Metal bristles would remove the bad wood; plastic ? ![]() |
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#12 | |
Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 160
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Thanks! |
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#13 |
Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 6,852
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Rule #1 of care for all ferric material, ie, iron/steel, is that it must never be stored in contact with cellulose material.
Wood is cellulose material. No iron/steel blade should ever be stored in its wooden scabbard. Scabbards are intended to be used to carry blades, they are not intended to be used to store blades. If you wish to store your blades in a wooden scabbard you have basically two alternatives:- 1) weekly inspection & appropriate maintenance 2) wrap your blades in a plastic sleeve after oiling |
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#14 |
Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 160
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I better find a duster to flake off all the cellulose particles! I have a air canister for getting rid of debris from keyboards, but sometimes it shoots out liquid so i hate using it.
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#15 |
Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 6,852
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A soft toothbrush works well.
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#16 | |
Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 459
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I wish to share and add that recently I found a black spot mark on my old Balinese bilah, most likely due to the warangka. I cleaned the whole bilah again and inspected it. Then I applied No 2 in above statement as per Alan's advice which was very good. But there is no way I can get it in my country, so I use below item: Food film wrap, for those who has problem buying a plastic cover. https://www.amazon.sg/Glad-thomaswi-...37597381&psc=1 |
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#17 |
Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 6,852
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Yes, cling wrap, or food wrap, or plastic wrap, or sandwich wrap, or whatever-you-like-to-call-it-wrap works just fine. I've used it myself in times past when I had run out of plastic sleeve.
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