Kris Restoration...

Spunjer · 17th May 2005, 08:22 PM

recently acquired this wonderful piece on ebay and from the way it looked it has a lot of potential. all it needs is some proper restoration. couple things i noticed right away was the missing asang-asang and the reverse hilt. here are the pictures from the seller:

Spunjer · 17th May 2005, 08:37 PM

i recieved the kris today and i must say it's definitely a beauty! i would like to take the challenge and restore this myself, and if there's any input that you folks would like to add, you're more than welcome. understand that this is my very first attempt in restoring a kris. i've done the first part: removing the blade from the handle. it was easily done by using a circular saw with very fine teeth and delicately cutting between the ferrule and the blade... just kiddin' .

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by placing the kris in the oven, i was able to remove the handle. my next step is etch the blade. i'm thinking about restaining the tagub and prolly reshaping it into one of those crosspiece-less type. i've already contacted battara with the asang-asang. btw, can anyone shed a light on the provenance and age of this kris? thanks in advance...

Bill · 17th May 2005, 09:04 PM

Myself, I would not restain the hilt; I would clean it the best I could with just removing the dirt trying to not do anything that would damage the original finish, then put som ren wax on it. I would not be so concerned about the patina, but most would. I'm convinced that the kris goes back to at least the 16thC. My guess is that yours is at least 175yrs+. Think that hilt may be 150yrs+, too. Good Luck

Federico · 17th May 2005, 10:34 PM

Nice kris, was eyeing it myself, but Ebay has definitely become much harder to score stuff from without spending $$$. A couple recommendations. When it comes to putting the hilt back on, try pitch instead of a modern epoxy. Its fairly strong, but on the plus side easily removable if further repairs need to be done. Here is what I will normally do for pieces that arrive in ratty condition. I will clean the blade with acetone, which will remove any old dirt and grease. For wood parts, I will clean with a mild solution of warm water and soap (I stress mild). Usually with a sponge. After cleaning, any further blemishes in the wood can be worked on with #0000 steel wool. It is fine enough not to damamge the finish (if you are careful), but will remove alot of the gunk that settles on top of the finish over the years. If your going to etch the blade anyways, try a cleaning etch first with lemon juice to remove old rust. Anyways, the wood of the scabbard looks rough and dry, after cleaning I would suggest an oil solution to rejuvinate the wood. Staining changes the color too much (IMHO) and will age funny, not to mention most stains will do nothing to renourish the dry wood. A little oil (I use a linseed/tung/turpentine mix myself) will add vitality and strength to the wood, and will darken it slightly. However, for me the biggest plus is that it ages properly.

Anyways, as for age, agree with Bill. 150+ sounds good to me.

Spunjer · 18th May 2005, 06:54 AM

thanks bill and federico. the scabbard is so dry, it feels like balsa wood.

Quote:

A little oil (I use a linseed/tung/turpentine mix myself) will add vitality and strength to the wood, and will darken it slightly.

what ratio do you use for this? yeah, basically, that's what i'm trying to attain; a slightly darker scabbard. i'm also thinking about adding rattan binds. as for hilt/blade adhesive i'll definitely use pitch on this one. for etching, i've been using ferric chloride, but i'm thinking of using the more traditional stuff like citric or acetic acid this time. once again, thanks guys...

Federico · 18th May 2005, 07:12 AM

Ive been using a 1/3 ratio for each, maybe a little more tung oil than linseed. Essentially you are making a wiping varnish. Make sure you find boiled linseed oil, the unboiled stuff takes forever to dry. Since its so dry, when you apply, apply thick, let sit for a minute or two (to allow the wood to absorb the oils) and then wipe off the excess with a paper towel. Wipe as much as you can off, let dry for a day, and repeat till you feel satisfied with the look. If it builds up to fast, use #0000 steel wool, and rub between sessions. In the first few coats it will seem like you are removing everything, but you are building up micro-layers that will help bring out the grain of the wood. You can also use tru-oil as well, but while I like it for new projects, its a little too bright for my tastes to use on antique pieces. It should darken down pretty well with oil, if it is the kind of wood I am thinking of. The more sessions you do with the oil, the more the grain will pop out, but its real easy to get carried away (you can actually fill cracks with the oil, and it will help seal smaller cracks), I wish I could a recommended number of sessions, but well I normally get carried away. Once you are satisfied with the look, seal it all with a good wax (ren wax works, other wood waxes can work as well and some may add more protection) to protect the finish, and it will add some shine. When done you should have a good mellow finish, that will only grow darker with age. A great benefit of this process, should anything occur down the road, its real easy to repair. Steel wool the wax, and then re-oil.

As for etching, try doing a cleaning etch with lemon juice. The citric acid bites a little stronger than FECL, and does a great job of cleaning off rust deposits (save some elbow grease with the steel wool). Worse case scenario its etches a little white, but you can always go back with FECL to adjust color.

Spunjer · 13th July 2005, 02:59 AM

just an update:
asang-asang was made by battara who did an excellent job. also the tagub was stained by using the linseed oil/tang oil/turpentine combo. came out pretty nice.

17th May 2005, 08:22 PM	#1
Spunjer Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Witness Protection Program Posts: 1,730	Kris Restoration... recently acquired this wonderful piece on ebay and from the way it looked it has a lot of potential. all it needs is some proper restoration. couple things i noticed right away was the missing asang-asang and the reverse hilt. here are the pictures from the seller: Attached Images

17th May 2005, 08:37 PM	#2
Spunjer Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Witness Protection Program Posts: 1,730	i recieved the kris today and i must say it's definitely a beauty! i would like to take the challenge and restore this myself, and if there's any input that you folks would like to add, you're more than welcome. understand that this is my very first attempt in restoring a kris. i've done the first part: removing the blade from the handle. it was easily done by using a circular saw with very fine teeth and delicately cutting between the ferrule and the blade... just kiddin' . . by placing the kris in the oven, i was able to remove the handle. my next step is etch the blade. i'm thinking about restaining the tagub and prolly reshaping it into one of those crosspiece-less type. i've already contacted battara with the asang-asang. btw, can anyone shed a light on the provenance and age of this kris? thanks in advance... Attached Images

13th July 2005, 02:59 AM	#7
Spunjer Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Witness Protection Program Posts: 1,730	slowly but surely... just an update: asang-asang was made by battara who did an excellent job. also the tagub was stained by using the linseed oil/tang oil/turpentine combo. came out pretty nice. Attached Images

17th May 2005, 09:04 PM	#3
Bill Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Chicago area Posts: 327	Myself, I would not restain the hilt; I would clean it the best I could with just removing the dirt trying to not do anything that would damage the original finish, then put som ren wax on it. I would not be so concerned about the patina, but most would. I'm convinced that the kris goes back to at least the 16thC. My guess is that yours is at least 175yrs+. Think that hilt may be 150yrs+, too. Good Luck

17th May 2005, 10:34 PM	#4
Federico Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Minneapolis, MN, USA Posts: 312	Nice kris, was eyeing it myself, but Ebay has definitely become much harder to score stuff from without spending $$$. A couple recommendations. When it comes to putting the hilt back on, try pitch instead of a modern epoxy. Its fairly strong, but on the plus side easily removable if further repairs need to be done. Here is what I will normally do for pieces that arrive in ratty condition. I will clean the blade with acetone, which will remove any old dirt and grease. For wood parts, I will clean with a mild solution of warm water and soap (I stress mild). Usually with a sponge. After cleaning, any further blemishes in the wood can be worked on with #0000 steel wool. It is fine enough not to damamge the finish (if you are careful), but will remove alot of the gunk that settles on top of the finish over the years. If your going to etch the blade anyways, try a cleaning etch first with lemon juice to remove old rust. Anyways, the wood of the scabbard looks rough and dry, after cleaning I would suggest an oil solution to rejuvinate the wood. Staining changes the color too much (IMHO) and will age funny, not to mention most stains will do nothing to renourish the dry wood. A little oil (I use a linseed/tung/turpentine mix myself) will add vitality and strength to the wood, and will darken it slightly. However, for me the biggest plus is that it ages properly. Anyways, as for age, agree with Bill. 150+ sounds good to me.

18th May 2005, 07:12 AM	#6
Federico Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Minneapolis, MN, USA Posts: 312	Ive been using a 1/3 ratio for each, maybe a little more tung oil than linseed. Essentially you are making a wiping varnish. Make sure you find boiled linseed oil, the unboiled stuff takes forever to dry. Since its so dry, when you apply, apply thick, let sit for a minute or two (to allow the wood to absorb the oils) and then wipe off the excess with a paper towel. Wipe as much as you can off, let dry for a day, and repeat till you feel satisfied with the look. If it builds up to fast, use #0000 steel wool, and rub between sessions. In the first few coats it will seem like you are removing everything, but you are building up micro-layers that will help bring out the grain of the wood. You can also use tru-oil as well, but while I like it for new projects, its a little too bright for my tastes to use on antique pieces. It should darken down pretty well with oil, if it is the kind of wood I am thinking of. The more sessions you do with the oil, the more the grain will pop out, but its real easy to get carried away (you can actually fill cracks with the oil, and it will help seal smaller cracks), I wish I could a recommended number of sessions, but well I normally get carried away. Once you are satisfied with the look, seal it all with a good wax (ren wax works, other wood waxes can work as well and some may add more protection) to protect the finish, and it will add some shine. When done you should have a good mellow finish, that will only grow darker with age. A great benefit of this process, should anything occur down the road, its real easy to repair. Steel wool the wax, and then re-oil. As for etching, try doing a cleaning etch with lemon juice. The citric acid bites a little stronger than FECL, and does a great job of cleaning off rust deposits (save some elbow grease with the steel wool). Worse case scenario its etches a little white, but you can always go back with FECL to adjust color.