Barong again!

Shakethetrees · 9th October 2014, 05:24 AM

Here are a few images of a barong that I pulled out, showing it before any cleaning was done.

I will add more pictures of the work I did in the last few days.

Any comments, pro or con are welcome.

Also, if anyone can recommend a book or two to ease my transition from a kris and barong novice to someone who can at least write using the correct terminology would be appreciated!

Shakethetrees · 9th October 2014, 05:36 AM

Here's an update after hours of work!

The blade is more or less clean, small dings and chips were polished out, old glue residue removed.

The scabbard appears to be made of golden teak. Once I find some I will update this post again.

Please, as usual, comments and suggestions are welcome.

The terminal of the scabbard is missing, as well as the grip covering. I taped up and out of the way some handmade string that I don't think was external wrapping, but, again, I'm no expert!

Any guidance here is most appreciated!

VANDOO · 9th October 2014, 07:05 PM

A NICE PROJECT. I DON'T KNOW HOW MUCH RESTORATION YOU PLAN ON BUT SOME ELMERS WOOD GLUE AND A CLAMP TO CLOSE THAT CRACK AT THE SCABBARD TOP WILL ALLOW YOU TO PUT THE LARGE MOTHER OF PEARL SECTION BACK IN PLACE. THE MISSING SCABBARD TIP LIKELY HAD MOTHER OF PEARL AS WELL AND THERE MAY HAVE BEEN A METAL FERRULE NOW MISSING THAT COVERED THE BLADE TANG. IF YOU REPLACE THE TIP PERHAPS A REFINISH ON THE SCABBARD WOULD BE NECESSARY BUT IF ITS NOT REPLACED YOU CAN REFINISH OR LEAVE THE SCABBARD AS IS DEPENDING ON WHAT YOU LIKE BEST. ONE WAY TO DO IT IS A PARTIAL RESTORE OF THE SCABBARD, RE- FINISH THE FRONT OF THE SCABBARD TO ITS ORIGINAL LOOK BUT LEAVE THE BACK AND SIDES AS THEY NOW ARE SHOWING THE OLD PATINA AND DIRT.
HERE ARE TWO EXAMPLES OF BARONGS WITH MOP PANELS SHOWING THE TIP. PLEASE PARDON MY USE OF THE PICTURES IF THEY ARE SOMEONE ELSE' S PICTURE I CANNOT KEEP TRACK OF WHERE OR WHEN I GET THE PICTURES.

PERHAPS SOMEONE CAN SUPPLY INFO ON THE PROPER DESIGN TO MATCH THE OLD MOP OR A SUGGESTION OF WHERE YOU COULD ORDER A PROPER PIECE MADE. THEY STILL DO THE MOP WORK IN THE PHILIPPINES AND MOLUCCAS. GOOD LUCK

Sajen · 9th October 2014, 07:15 PM

Hello Shakethetrees,

very good cleaning job of the blade, ready for etching. I think that this barong is much later as the other one, 1930 or later but a very nice one. From which material is the remaining ferrule? I think there is missing a second and maybe a third one. I would let work them in the same manner new, replace the missing wrapping and attach the handle firmly again in correct manner, clean carefully the wooden pommel without removing the patina and oil it with linseed oil. The scabbard don't show a nice patination so I would clean it carefully with steel wool to show the potentially nice grain of the wood. Glue the split in up and reattach the mother of pearl piece in the way it was originally. Restauration of the finish of the scabbard will be a great concern, there was once most probable as well attached a MOP piece, personally I would let it like this.
The best reference book about Moro blades is "Moro Swords" from Robert Cato, difficult to get and somewhat expensive but with good luck you will find an example.

Regards,
Detlef

Spunjer · 10th October 2014, 12:56 AM

STT,
i'm not sure how confident you are in regards to removing the handle, but if you search this "Barong restoration suggestion...", it will give you a step by step process on how to work on it. i can't add the direct link on this here post due to my current location.
as far as removing the handle, it is fairly easy. i normally use a heat gun (rated at 750 deg) and would aim it blade, about three to four inches away from the handle. just make sure you don't aim it at one place, rather doing it a sweeping motion. what you're doing is heating the blade enough so it will soften the "gal-gal", a native tree resin used by the locals. you can then either push it in to set it, or remove it if you like. if you do pull it out and decide to work on it, i would suggest pitch as an adhesive to replace the native resin. hope this helps...

Robert · 10th October 2014, 08:05 AM

STT, I totally agree with Spunjers recommendations on how to remove and reset the hilt and what to use as a replacement adhesive. The only thing I might add is that from what I can see in your photos it looks like the reason the blade has moved forward is because the wooden hilt has over the years shrank quite a bit causing the forward movement of the blade. If this is the case, to refit the blade back to its original position you might have to enlarge the tang socket a little so the tang will fit properly again. Hopefully though when heated it will just (with a little pressure) pop back into place with no problems at all.

Best,
Robert

Shakethetrees · 10th October 2014, 09:00 AM

Thanks for the tips!

My primary concern right now is to determine exactly what the grip should look like-how many ferrules, any and what type of wrap gets laid down between the ferrules, how does the scabbard tip look, and possibly other considerations that I'm now wondering about.

The MOP work shown by Vandoo is of a much higher quality than what I think should be on mine. Once I am satisfied as to how it will look, I have no problem making and carving/engraving it myself. I do this type of work professionally on antique metalwork and weapons for thirty years.

There is no outlet on these boards for it, or I would show some stuff I've done.

My hesitancy with Philippine weapons is due to the fact that I don't know squat about them, their regional differences and similarities, etc. I've always liked them from a casual view of history, design, etc. but nothing particularly deep here. Likewise with Indonesian weapons. For whatever reason I've just never had the opportunity to make a detailed study of them.

When I need to make a part for something in my "real world" job, the outcome is based on many years of research and study of design by time periods. If i get stumped I at least know where to go to augment my knowledge and only then will I start to sculpt, mold, cut, or whatever my technique is that I need to use.

But, with a little understanding from you guys who appear to have made a real academic pursuit of what I'm just now getting into, I believe I have the experience and confidence in my abilities to understand the possibilities and limitations of materials that make me comfortable enough to tackle most of what I need to do for a good restoration.

And, as I've been at this for a long, long time, and am on the downside toward retirement, I would think a new forum category could be helpful to the collecting field at large. Just a place to go for advice, simple tricks that allow one to clean up and return to glory a tired old piece or two. Nothing really deep or complex, dangerous or risky to the piece or the operator, but good, sound advice with the idea to maintain and manage the long term health and well being of our collections. The standards of museum conservation and storage should be disseminated and taken to heart here.

Remember, we are only custodians of this stuff, and pay well for the privilege!

I look forward to posting a completed project or two in the near future, and, as always, I welcome your comments!

9th October 2014, 05:24 AM	#1
Shakethetrees Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Louisiana Posts: 363	Barong again! Here are a few images of a barong that I pulled out, showing it before any cleaning was done. I will add more pictures of the work I did in the last few days. Any comments, pro or con are welcome. Also, if anyone can recommend a book or two to ease my transition from a kris and barong novice to someone who can at least write using the correct terminology would be appreciated! Attached Images

9th October 2014, 05:36 AM	#2
Shakethetrees Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Louisiana Posts: 363	Here's an update after hours of work! The blade is more or less clean, small dings and chips were polished out, old glue residue removed. The scabbard appears to be made of golden teak. Once I find some I will update this post again. Please, as usual, comments and suggestions are welcome. The terminal of the scabbard is missing, as well as the grip covering. I taped up and out of the way some handmade string that I don't think was external wrapping, but, again, I'm no expert! Any guidance here is most appreciated! Attached Images

9th October 2014, 07:05 PM	#3
VANDOO (deceased) Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: OKLAHOMA, USA Posts: 3,138	A NICE PROJECT. I DON'T KNOW HOW MUCH RESTORATION YOU PLAN ON BUT SOME ELMERS WOOD GLUE AND A CLAMP TO CLOSE THAT CRACK AT THE SCABBARD TOP WILL ALLOW YOU TO PUT THE LARGE MOTHER OF PEARL SECTION BACK IN PLACE. THE MISSING SCABBARD TIP LIKELY HAD MOTHER OF PEARL AS WELL AND THERE MAY HAVE BEEN A METAL FERRULE NOW MISSING THAT COVERED THE BLADE TANG. IF YOU REPLACE THE TIP PERHAPS A REFINISH ON THE SCABBARD WOULD BE NECESSARY BUT IF ITS NOT REPLACED YOU CAN REFINISH OR LEAVE THE SCABBARD AS IS DEPENDING ON WHAT YOU LIKE BEST. ONE WAY TO DO IT IS A PARTIAL RESTORE OF THE SCABBARD, RE- FINISH THE FRONT OF THE SCABBARD TO ITS ORIGINAL LOOK BUT LEAVE THE BACK AND SIDES AS THEY NOW ARE SHOWING THE OLD PATINA AND DIRT. HERE ARE TWO EXAMPLES OF BARONGS WITH MOP PANELS SHOWING THE TIP. PLEASE PARDON MY USE OF THE PICTURES IF THEY ARE SOMEONE ELSE' S PICTURE I CANNOT KEEP TRACK OF WHERE OR WHEN I GET THE PICTURES. PERHAPS SOMEONE CAN SUPPLY INFO ON THE PROPER DESIGN TO MATCH THE OLD MOP OR A SUGGESTION OF WHERE YOU COULD ORDER A PROPER PIECE MADE. THEY STILL DO THE MOP WORK IN THE PHILIPPINES AND MOLUCCAS. GOOD LUCK Attached Images Last edited by VANDOO; 9th October 2014 at 07:35 PM.

9th October 2014, 07:15 PM	#4
Sajen Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Germany, Dortmund Posts: 8,781	Hello Shakethetrees, very good cleaning job of the blade, ready for etching. I think that this barong is much later as the other one, 1930 or later but a very nice one. From which material is the remaining ferrule? I think there is missing a second and maybe a third one. I would let work them in the same manner new, replace the missing wrapping and attach the handle firmly again in correct manner, clean carefully the wooden pommel without removing the patina and oil it with linseed oil. The scabbard don't show a nice patination so I would clean it carefully with steel wool to show the potentially nice grain of the wood. Glue the split in up and reattach the mother of pearl piece in the way it was originally. Restauration of the finish of the scabbard will be a great concern, there was once most probable as well attached a MOP piece, personally I would let it like this. The best reference book about Moro blades is "Moro Swords" from Robert Cato, difficult to get and somewhat expensive but with good luck you will find an example. Regards, Detlef

10th October 2014, 12:56 AM	#5
Spunjer Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Witness Protection Program Posts: 1,730	STT, i'm not sure how confident you are in regards to removing the handle, but if you search this "Barong restoration suggestion...", it will give you a step by step process on how to work on it. i can't add the direct link on this here post due to my current location. as far as removing the handle, it is fairly easy. i normally use a heat gun (rated at 750 deg) and would aim it blade, about three to four inches away from the handle. just make sure you don't aim it at one place, rather doing it a sweeping motion. what you're doing is heating the blade enough so it will soften the "gal-gal", a native tree resin used by the locals. you can then either push it in to set it, or remove it if you like. if you do pull it out and decide to work on it, i would suggest pitch as an adhesive to replace the native resin. hope this helps...

10th October 2014, 08:05 AM	#6
Robert EAAF Staff Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Centerville, Kansas Posts: 2,196	STT, I totally agree with Spunjers recommendations on how to remove and reset the hilt and what to use as a replacement adhesive. The only thing I might add is that from what I can see in your photos it looks like the reason the blade has moved forward is because the wooden hilt has over the years shrank quite a bit causing the forward movement of the blade. If this is the case, to refit the blade back to its original position you might have to enlarge the tang socket a little so the tang will fit properly again. Hopefully though when heated it will just (with a little pressure) pop back into place with no problems at all. Best, Robert

10th October 2014, 09:00 AM	#7
Shakethetrees Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Louisiana Posts: 363	Thanks for the tips! My primary concern right now is to determine exactly what the grip should look like-how many ferrules, any and what type of wrap gets laid down between the ferrules, how does the scabbard tip look, and possibly other considerations that I'm now wondering about. The MOP work shown by Vandoo is of a much higher quality than what I think should be on mine. Once I am satisfied as to how it will look, I have no problem making and carving/engraving it myself. I do this type of work professionally on antique metalwork and weapons for thirty years. There is no outlet on these boards for it, or I would show some stuff I've done. My hesitancy with Philippine weapons is due to the fact that I don't know squat about them, their regional differences and similarities, etc. I've always liked them from a casual view of history, design, etc. but nothing particularly deep here. Likewise with Indonesian weapons. For whatever reason I've just never had the opportunity to make a detailed study of them. When I need to make a part for something in my "real world" job, the outcome is based on many years of research and study of design by time periods. If i get stumped I at least know where to go to augment my knowledge and only then will I start to sculpt, mold, cut, or whatever my technique is that I need to use. But, with a little understanding from you guys who appear to have made a real academic pursuit of what I'm just now getting into, I believe I have the experience and confidence in my abilities to understand the possibilities and limitations of materials that make me comfortable enough to tackle most of what I need to do for a good restoration. And, as I've been at this for a long, long time, and am on the downside toward retirement, I would think a new forum category could be helpful to the collecting field at large. Just a place to go for advice, simple tricks that allow one to clean up and return to glory a tired old piece or two. Nothing really deep or complex, dangerous or risky to the piece or the operator, but good, sound advice with the idea to maintain and manage the long term health and well being of our collections. The standards of museum conservation and storage should be disseminated and taken to heart here. Remember, we are only custodians of this stuff, and pay well for the privilege! I look forward to posting a completed project or two in the near future, and, as always, I welcome your comments!