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#1 |
Member
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 17
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Hello Everyone,
Been coming to this site for a while. I have a question about desiccant packs while storing Moro weapons. Does people here use desiccant packs in their gun safe or cabinet storage to protect their swords? What are the desiccants effects on the wood, blade, bone, or ivory? Thank you for your inputs. Ced |
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#2 |
Vikingsword Staff
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,285
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#3 |
Member
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 17
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ThankYou Rick.
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#4 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 865
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Great topic. I remember some very specific comments a professional conservator, Dr. Robert Faltermeier, who was kind enough to share information regarding this exact topic.
Regarding humidity he recommend iron containing metal works without organic material be kept at under 30%, but mix media (ie like most swords that contain iron, wood, and other animal product (leather, rayskin, etc) at 50% humidity. Lower that 50% might otherwise accelerate the drying, shrinking, cracking process of the organic materials. Robert also commented he was not a fan of the famed Renaissance Wax because it contains microwax and polyethylene wax. see listed ingredients: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Renaissance_Wax Microwax has varying melting points.... potentially 40 to 80 centigrade. http://www.kremer-pigmente.com/media...lic/62800e.pdf In Singapore they put Renaissance wax on a outdoor sculpture and it ended up evaporating/ melting off. And more importantly, polyethylene wax is insoluble in any solvent. So once applied the polyethylene wax can not be properly removed. ![]() He recommended Cosmolide microwax or commercially available Tre Wax, a microwax containing carnauba which has a higher melting point and is more reversible. A nice thing about Tre Wax too, is you can get a 12.35 oz (365ml) can for $13 USD versus Renassance wax you can get a 6.7oz (200ml) can for about $19 USD (not including shipping) Reference & with permission, not promotion. http://www.faltermeier.biz/ I would also point out his published article section: http://www.faltermeier.biz/articles.html and in particular the article on Silver Conservation maybe of particular interest to all: http://www.faltermeier.biz/articles/Caring%20for.pdf Last edited by Nathaniel; 1st October 2015 at 06:43 PM. |
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#5 | |
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 584
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Just to say thanks for your valuable info. Regards Miguel |
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#6 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 865
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Happy to pass on helpful information as we all seek to understand and preserve these old warriors.
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#7 |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 424
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Sure wish I knew about the evils of renaissance wax a year ago. I had no idea that it was not reversible; I'm surprised that this information would not have been presented by the maker, as I understand reversibility is a serious concern with curators and such folk.
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#8 | |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 584
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I am just examining my collection after being in storage for approx. 20 years. I can tell you that they have and are being stored in my loft in wooden crates I had made and lined with waterproof paper. They were all given a good coating of WD40 removed from their scabbards and separated from each other ie not touching. Some I encased in Nylon sleeves, given to me by a friend, some I wrapped in cloth and others I did not wrap in anything. Around the inside of the box I hung bags of Silica gel. I was apprehensive as to what rusting I would find when taking the lids off my crates after all that time but was relieved to find that my method had worked in most cases bearing in mind that I have stored over 200 items in the crates and only 2 or 3 were affected and this was probably due to my handling when putting them in the crates in the first place. I don't know whether I have been lucky or not but the only difference I am making to my method is using oil in place of WD40 and this is because I was informed that oil would be better for longer periods of storage. In your case if you are only storing for a few months WD40 , removing from their scabbards and not touching each other should be more than adequate. Miguel |
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#9 |
Member
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 17
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Thank You Miguel for your reply. Ced
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#10 |
Member
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 17
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Thank You for your reply Miguel!
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#11 |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 424
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I have been using Eezox as a metal treatment for firearms and edged weapons. It is a solvent coupled with a rust inhibitor; one can clean the surface of contaminants, and allow the remaining eezox to remain on the surface. The solvent evaporates and leaves behind an imperceptible coating of rust inhibitor. For long-term storage I then treat with renaissance wax.
I have had occasion to use Obenauf's leather protector on some dried and aged leather sheaths and ornaments. It has re-moisturised them to a degree, and probably will aid in their long-term survival, but it's only been applied for a year or two (one application in most cases; a second in some) so I can't speak to any longevity issues. (It has been remarkable in use on shoe leather and saddlery/tack usage). I have access to silica gel, but I do not use it, as total elimination of humidity seems an extreme solution for anything containing organic material - leather, wood, ivory or bone. Keeping ambient humidity levels in the 40-50% range seems adequate. |
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#12 | |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 363
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I would be really cautious using leather protectors, since, in my experience, long term they do no good, or worse, can turn acidic and attack the leather. I have a background in conservation and have specialized in arms and metalwork. Not having experience with either product you mention, detox or Obenauf's, I would go lightly. However, you cannot go wrong with Renaissance Wax. It's the gold standard. |
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#13 | |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 424
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