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#1 |
Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: yeovil, somerset, uk
Posts: 75
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hi chaps, whats the best way of removing rust without wreaking the look of the lock. thanks, michael
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#2 |
(deceased)
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Bavaria, Germany - the center of 15th and 16th century gunmaking
Posts: 4,310
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Hi Michael,
I've often posted my philosophy that doing less is more. It this were mine I would take out the lock, put a layer of olive oil on it and gently rub with fine steel wool. Never touch the dry iron with steel wool! This way you will get a nice bright polish, with just a few gray stains remaining. Have fun, and best, the other Michael |
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#3 |
Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: yeovil, somerset, uk
Posts: 75
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Thanks for that, I just wanted to stop anymore rust forming and kill what was there, will play around later on.
thanks, michael |
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#4 |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 668
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Hola
Aunque la pregunta, al parecer, no ha sido dirigida a todos, contesto: El óxido de hierro se comporta como un cuerpo extraño en la superficie del metal, como un par galvánico que fomenta mas y mas oxidación. No existe óxido pasivo, aunque en apariencia permanezca estable. Hay que eliminar las mínimas trazas de óxido. Para ello hay tres métodos: la electrolisis y el método de zinc-soda, basados en la producción de hidrogeno naciente, que reduce al óxido, y el ultra-sonido. El óxido se forma en cráteres irregulares "picaduras" y aunque se limpie la superficie, el óxido permanece en las cavernas, y la única manera de eliminarlo, es eliminando metal. Estos métodos son recomendados por el ICOM (International Council of Museums) AHello Although the question, apparently, has not been addressed to all, replied: The iron oxide acts as a foreign body in the metal surface, such as a galvanic couple that encourages more and more rust. There is no passive oxide, although apparently remains stable. Minimum necessary to remove the traces of rust. For this there are three methods: electrolysis and the zinc-soda method, based on the production of nascent hydrogen, which reduces the oxide, and the ultra-sound. The oxide is formed in craters irregular "bites" and although the surface is cleaned, rust remains in caves, and the only way to remove it is by removing metal. These methods are recommended by the ICOM (International Council of Museums) Afecdtuosamente. Fernando IK fecdtuosamente. Fernando IK |
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#5 |
Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: yeovil, somerset, uk
Posts: 75
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Thanks again for reply, michael
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#6 |
(deceased)
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Bavaria, Germany - the center of 15th and 16th century gunmaking
Posts: 4,310
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Hi Fernando K,
I'am afraid you should have added that all you get by using the methods you mentioned is an optically disturbed, dull, porous iron surface that has nothing to do with the original. ![]() Wouldn'that be sad? Best, Michael |
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#7 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 608
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Hi Michael,
I rely on #0000 steel wool and 3-in-1 oil, working just the area with the 'active' rust with just enough pressure to remove it. I then wipe it dry with a paper towel, wet another one with 3-in-1, and wipe the treated area until I see no more red on the paper towel. Sometimes I have to revisit the spot with the #0000 (again in conjunction with the 3-in-1) and repeat the process. #0000 steel wool is equivalent to somewhere between 600-grit and 1000-grit sandpaper, so with oil your safe. ![]() ![]() Cheers, Chris |
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#8 | |
Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Buraimi Oman, on the border with the UAE
Posts: 4,408
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![]() Quote:
Aluminium foil ! Marvellous !! Ibrahiim al Balooshi. Last edited by Ibrahiim al Balooshi; 24th October 2011 at 04:50 PM. Reason: text |
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#9 |
Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 6,852
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Yes, olive oil is good, with thick slices of crusty bread and a glass of good red wine.
But not for anything made of metal which one values. Olive oil is mildly acidic. Leave a coat of olive oil on a blued surface for long enough, and it will damage it. There are neutral oils made specifically to protect firearms. |
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