Proportions on various wootz etching solutions

FenrisWolf · 20th February 2007, 06:59 AM

Hey, all;

I have that project jambiya just about ready for the etching stage, and was wondering what proportions to use when mixing the etch. I have both ferric chloride and copper sulfate in powder form, and need to know what ratio to use: how many ounces of powder to add to say 8 oz. of water to mix the proper strength? Thanks!

Jeff Pringle · 20th February 2007, 03:57 PM

The more dilute the etchant is, the smoother the 'bite' and the longer it takes to do the etch. So start out with a low perecentage and if it's taking too long, make the solution stronger. If it's too strong you'll get a rough finish that looks bad.
For Ferric, I use the liquid PCB etchant and dilute it three or four parts water to one FeCl. If you are using powdered, I'd say make it about the color of 18 year old Macallan's and adjust up or down.
Degrease, in for thirty seconds, rinse, check, repeat; adjust time in the solution or solution strength. Wipe off the accumulated etching debris or they will interfere with the etch.
The copper sulfate should give you some cool effects when the copper plates out of solution!

ariel · 20th February 2007, 10:22 PM

18 yo Macallan as a color yardstick...
Single malt, of course.
But... is it single cask?

Bill M · 21st February 2007, 01:34 AM

Brian,

Whatever dilution, use DISTILLED water! I have found that tap water can make the color come out brownish.

Also be sure to have some amonia or baking soda to stop the etch when you get it like you want it.

DaveS · 27th February 2007, 03:15 AM

Brian: Instead of using ferric chloride, you might want to try phosphoric acid. It is sold by Orchard Supply Hardware under the name "metal etch" I have used it for many years to etch layer welded blades, especially moro swords. I think it gives a much better look to the steel, a silver and black look. I used ferric on wootz until just recently. I tried phosphoric on a wootz piece and the results were outstanding. Instead of diluting it ,use it right out of the bottle as i have found it really dosen't need to be diluted. It also helps if the blade is warmed with a propane torch. Just warm enough so you can't hold your hand on it. It makes the high carbon areas stand out better. Ferric chloride always seems to give a gray-green etch which i dont think looks as good as a phosphoric etch. I also have never had a problem with using straight tap water. Possibly my area of the country (Central Calif) might have different or less dissolved minerals than where Bill lives (Atlanta). That might make a big difference in the kook of the final etch.....Dave

Pukka Bundook · 27th February 2007, 01:49 PM

Dave,
thanks for the tip re. phosphoric acid.
I see you use the "metal etch" neet. Would you mind telling me how you apply it, and, How long do you leave it on the metal?
Thank you again Dave,

All the best,
Richard.

20th February 2007, 06:59 AM	#1
FenrisWolf Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 181	Proportions on various wootz etching solutions Hey, all; I have that project jambiya just about ready for the etching stage, and was wondering what proportions to use when mixing the etch. I have both ferric chloride and copper sulfate in powder form, and need to know what ratio to use: how many ounces of powder to add to say 8 oz. of water to mix the proper strength? Thanks!

20th February 2007, 03:57 PM	#2
Jeff Pringle Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 189	The more dilute the etchant is, the smoother the 'bite' and the longer it takes to do the etch. So start out with a low perecentage and if it's taking too long, make the solution stronger. If it's too strong you'll get a rough finish that looks bad. For Ferric, I use the liquid PCB etchant and dilute it three or four parts water to one FeCl. If you are using powdered, I'd say make it about the color of 18 year old Macallan's and adjust up or down. Degrease, in for thirty seconds, rinse, check, repeat; adjust time in the solution or solution strength. Wipe off the accumulated etching debris or they will interfere with the etch. The copper sulfate should give you some cool effects when the copper plates out of solution!

20th February 2007, 10:22 PM	#3
ariel Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Ann Arbor, MI Posts: 5,503	18 yo Macallan as a color yardstick... Single malt, of course. But... is it single cask?

21st February 2007, 01:34 AM	#4
Bill M Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: USA Georgia Posts: 1,599	Brian, Whatever dilution, use DISTILLED water! I have found that tap water can make the color come out brownish. Also be sure to have some amonia or baking soda to stop the etch when you get it like you want it.

27th February 2007, 03:15 AM	#5
DaveS Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 327	Brian: Instead of using ferric chloride, you might want to try phosphoric acid. It is sold by Orchard Supply Hardware under the name "metal etch" I have used it for many years to etch layer welded blades, especially moro swords. I think it gives a much better look to the steel, a silver and black look. I used ferric on wootz until just recently. I tried phosphoric on a wootz piece and the results were outstanding. Instead of diluting it ,use it right out of the bottle as i have found it really dosen't need to be diluted. It also helps if the blade is warmed with a propane torch. Just warm enough so you can't hold your hand on it. It makes the high carbon areas stand out better. Ferric chloride always seems to give a gray-green etch which i dont think looks as good as a phosphoric etch. I also have never had a problem with using straight tap water. Possibly my area of the country (Central Calif) might have different or less dissolved minerals than where Bill lives (Atlanta). That might make a big difference in the kook of the final etch.....Dave

27th February 2007, 01:49 PM	#6
Pukka Bundook Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 803	Dave, thanks for the tip re. phosphoric acid. I see you use the "metal etch" neet. Would you mind telling me how you apply it, and, How long do you leave it on the metal? Thank you again Dave, All the best, Richard.