Kaskara for Comments
 

I just recieved this kaskara and was wondering what you guys thought of it. The blade is 35 inches long and the sword is 39 1/2 inches overall. I was wondering if someone could give me an estimated age. It has some conditional issues. The scabbard is split at the top, the grip is missing some of its leather wrap and the blade is just slightly loose. If you want more pictures, just let me know. Thanks in advance.

Hi JS

It looks to me like a nice older sword 1920-40 but it is hard to say? Is the blade springy or stiff?

Thanks, and sorry for the bad pics. I'll try to get some better one's later. The blade seems fairly springy to me, but I don't have much experience, so I'm not sure what to relate it to.

I think very springy usually equates to a locally made the European blades were of a stiffer temper but still had some flex to them?

Thanks for the help. I'm thinking now that it has a European blade because the blade does flex a little, but not a whole lot. Here are some better pictures. I was also wondering whether or not I should try and clean the blade at all. It has some spots of active rust that I'd like to get rid of. Should I try lightly cleaning it or just leave it as it is? Thanks again.

- Josh

Very springy .
Very nice if local work .

Rick

Your sword has a huge fuller so by that alone would make it springy less center mass. The blade is of very high quality if not European the local smith was a master sword maker. :)

I've had this for some years .

It still goes unidentified as to blade origin .

From Artzi's collection . :)

Darfur, like the one in question which I think has a local blade .

Are there any other ways to tell if a blade is European or not other than how springy it is? Very nice example by the way, Rick!

- Josh

Josh

It's hard to tell I have a shortened kaskara that I know is European and it dates back to the 1700s but I am reluctant to start flexing it. My other one is normal size and has a stiffer thicker blade but no markings so I can't be sure. The flex test is something I read in a previous thread :shrug:

Lew

Flex
 

I have examples of both here and they both have good flex. I have not yet encountered one that does not have good flex to it

Pictured is my favorite that I am keeping for display, it comes with good unreaserched provenance that I'll follow up on one day.

Gav

Thanks for all the replies. I really appreciate the help. Just to bring it up again, I was wondering whether or not I should try and clean the blade at all. It has some spots of active rust that I'd like to get rid of. Should I try lightly cleaning it or just leave it as it is? Thanks.

- Josh

Josh, always stay way conservative in cleaning! These pieces have earned whatever age they have on them, and patination is treasure on these old warriors. The main thing is to stabilize any active rust, just use light oil WD40 and then oil well with gun oil and a rag. Using the finest steel wool for tough spots. There is nothing worse than overcleaned.
The exception is always on fine steel blades of pattern, which should be polished professionally.

These kaskaras are fascinating ethnographic swords, and though this one, like many, is probably 20th century, they are still proudly owned heirlooms in tribal families.

All the best,
Jim

Thanks for the info, Jim. I know you have to be careful if you do any cleaning, which is why I wanted to ask here before I did anything. I think I'll just leave it as is (except for oiling the blade). Thanks again!

- Josh

IMO
 

Active rust should be removed before oiling or waxing .

So should I just spray a little WD40 on the active rust and then wipe it off with a rag? Sorry for all the questions, but I've never done this before and I don't want to mess up! Thanks.

- Josh

Josh

600 grit wet dry sand paper with/oil wd-40 is what I use or 0000 steel wool and WD-40 is ok to just don't over do it.