Ethnographic Arms & Armour
 

Go Back   Ethnographic Arms & Armour > Discussion Forums > Ethnographic Weapons
FAQ Calendar Today's Posts Search

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 6th January 2005, 04:19 PM   #1
Brian Biegler
Member
 
Brian Biegler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Dallas Texas
Posts: 3
Default higher res pics of new daab

Took some better pics of a new daab i got in bangkok.

any suggestions on rust removal on this piece would be appreciated..do it? don't do it? best way to do it?

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/brianb...a2.jpg&.src=ph









Brian Biegler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 6th January 2005, 05:14 PM   #2
Jens Nordlunde
Member
 
Jens Nordlunde's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Europe
Posts: 2,718
Default

Congratulation to your daab.
Rust cleaning is close to being scientific, some would say, while others would say it is easy. Both parts can be right - that depends on the rust. Do yourself a favor, have a look at the old threads on the subject, it has been discussed a lot earlier.

Regards

Jens
Jens Nordlunde is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 6th January 2005, 06:46 PM   #3
RhysMichael
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Virginia
Posts: 520
Default

Active rusting should always be removed. Stains and patina are up to the sword owner whether to remove or not. I use flitz metal polish most times and for severe rusting I use wd40 and a fine steel wool or brass brush. I clean the surface with alcohol to remove any petroleum distilates left and then use rennaisance wax ( a microcrystaline not a parafin wax that is used by the royal armory ). There are many other ways just as good though and you need to as Jen said read more and decide
here is a good link on preservation

http://swordforum.com/articles/ams/conservation.php
RhysMichael is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 7th January 2005, 08:31 PM   #4
Mark
Member
 
Mark's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 987
Default

That is pretty much what I do as well, except I use mineral spirits with fine steel wool instead of WD40. Definitely oil it afterword. I usually leave the patina in place if it is even, but try and polish it out with 600 or finer wet-dry sandpaper if it is very dark and blotch.

I was surprised to find out that your basic all-purpose metal polish, the kind you would use to clean brass candlesticks and copper pots and pans or the chrome on your boat, really takes the stains off a blade (I was using Twinkle brand, but I imagine that Brasso would work just as well). i was taking the oxidation off of some copper inlay and found that the blade itself started getting nice and shiny, too). The poor-man's blade polish.
Mark is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 09:17 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Posts are regarded as being copyrighted by their authors and the act of posting material is deemed to be a granting of an irrevocable nonexclusive license for display here.