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#1 |
Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Czech Republic
Posts: 841
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May be common sword, nevertheless not my specialization and I would appreciate your help - answers to the folloving questions:
Why they used to be completely (incl. handle, metal fittings) black coloured ? Is it original colour or it was colured additionaly (see detail - also scratch was coloured). Shouldn´t this black "enamel" be removed during restoring ? If yes - completely or from certain parts only ? The blade is very, very heavy and thick (not ballanced) and my opinion is the "fencing" with one hand would be rather cumbersome. Is this sword for two/"one and half" hands (the handle is relatively long) ? Regards, Martin |
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#2 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: What is still UK
Posts: 5,780
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Martin I cannot see any enamel on this, perhaps because of the light. I would be surprised to see real molten glass enamel on a sword like this. It looks genuine to me, file marks on the handle but originally it would be covered in ray or shark skin.
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#3 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,247
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Hi Martin,
As Tim noted, the handle should be covered with something like cloth or leather. As for the weight and balance, it's not designed for European-style fencing, but for circular slashes, and I'm pretty sure it's a single-handed blade. That said, it could also simply be badly balanced. That did happen, especially during war-time. Best, F |
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#4 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: The Sharp end
Posts: 2,928
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Hi Martin,
I have a very similar one if you would like to compare? Also very heavy and still retaining some black 'paint' although sadly no scabbard. Let me know how the size/weight compares. Regards Gene http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showth...hlight=chinese |
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#6 |
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: Czech Republic
Posts: 841
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Thank you all for answers and good references/links.
Gene, dimensions are: total length (in sheath): 95 cm without sheath: 92 cm weight without sheath: 1. 3 kgs blade: lenght: 75 cm width: 4. 3 cm thickness: 0. 6 cm (up tp 20 cm from the tip) smooth surface, buth with signs of fighting |
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#7 |
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: The Sharp end
Posts: 2,928
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Thats interesting, thanks for posting the stats on your mate
![]() I always find these comparisons very interesting. Heres how mine measures up! total length (sword): 91 cm weight (sword): 1. 475 kgs blade length: 75 cm width: 4.3 cm Spine thickness: 0. 6 cm (gradually thinning from half-way point) P.S Whats your guard like? Mines loose as hell ![]() Last edited by Atlantia; 10th September 2009 at 10:46 PM. |
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#8 |
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: The Sharp end
Posts: 2,928
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Its an interesting contrast.
![]() I really should take the ghastly string off the handle and start the restoration ![]() |
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#10 |
Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Czech Republic
Posts: 841
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The guard wabbles a little
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#11 | |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: The Sharp end
Posts: 2,928
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![]() Quote:
So I guess the tang is wide right up to near the end? Are you going to repolish the blade? Last edited by Atlantia; 11th September 2009 at 12:00 PM. |
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#12 |
Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Czech Republic
Posts: 841
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Sorry for late reply, Gene.
"I notice the hole in the handle of your sword is right where I thought the tang would be thinning down to enter the pommel. So I guess the tang is wide right up to near the end?" -- I am of the same idea, we will see when I overhaul it. "Are you going to repolish the blade?" --I would like to do it and also to etch the blade (for the case...). And to re-wrap the handle. (But everything later, not now). Regards, Martin |
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