They called to say that my check cleared and......

[kino]

....to pick up my stuff.

These came out of the same estate that Ivory the Barungs came from.
I'll post more photos later.

[Rick]

W00t !

Congratulations are in order .

[spiral]

Wow! To some people that would be a complete collection in one go!

Congratulations!

Spiral

[tunggulametung]

Wooo, are you preparing for another pacific war?

[katana]

NICE Congrats


Even Stewie's excited

[Tim Simmons]

Very nice.

[Gavin Nugent]

I do look forward to viewing further images.

regards

Gav

[RSWORD]

I think we all dream of running across such a nice grouping. Was it formed by a collector as the quality of the grouping is top notch?

[kino]

Thanks for the drink, Rick.
NO! No Pacific war.
RSWORD, all I know is the collection came from a gentleman who lived in Seattle, that had passed away, his relatives gave his collection away, and I got it from a broker. There were a lot of Span-Am veterans that came back from the Philippines,to Fort Lewis, south of Seattle. A large amount of sandata's were brought back. Burke Museum has a good collection of Filipino and Moro weapons. Ft. Lewis donated most of them. Sadly it's tucked away in the basement. They rather display Native American basketry. I have nothing against baskets, but it would be nice to display some edged weapons.
Thanks all.
More photos.....

1 of the twist core Kris have a swirly pattern on one side and linear on the other. The Jungayan Kris' is broken at the tang, which is still in the hilt.

[carlos]

CONGRATULATIONS!! VRY GOOD PIECES!! I HAD SEEN THIS COLLECTION BEFORE...IN MY BEST DREAMS!!
BEST REGARDS
CARLOS

[Rick]

I genuflect in your general direction Kino .
What a tremenous score ; a bag of classics !!!

[Alam Shah]

Some very good pieces... congratulations!

Another collector, custodian of the next generation...

[DaveS]

Albert: That pira and panabas are screaming out to me that they want to come and live at my house after christmas...............Dave.

[Jim McDougall]

Hello Kino,
Though I admit to knowing little on these weapons, I do recognize a fantastic grouping when I see one! I'd like to add my congratulations with the others, and thank you for sharing these with everyone here.
Very nicely done!

All the best,
Jim

[kino]

Carlos, I saw these pieces also in my dreams, I guess I dreamt har enough
for it to come true.
Rick, "genuflect" , Oh my! I don't know what to say...
DaveS I don't think you can cram anymore peices in your house You'll have
to get another or larger storage space.

Thanks for the congratulatory words all!

Most of the pieces are in excellent shape. The blades have no nicks, or signs of post battle sharpening.


Strange break on this piece. Tang broke and is still residing in the hilt. Blade is fine and surprisingly the Kakatua is still in pristine form with no chips.
Dimensions 7.25" length, 2.25" width.
Anyone have any experience in having the a tang reweld. My concern would be, adding extra material to the tang and not being able to fit it thru the hole of the ganja.

[VVV]

Thanks for sharing these great blades!!!!!

Is it a shandigan barong?


Michael

[kino]

Michael, It is a Shandigan Barung with a hollow ground 16.75" blade, the
sharpened top edge measures at 12".

[VVV]

Nice, nice, nice...

Michael

[kai]

Hello Albert,

A shandigan barong with sharpened backedge, pira with genuine, antique scabbard, rare tabas, and other magnificient blades - great score!

Strange break on this piece. Tang broke and is still residing in the hilt.

Seems like it snapped fairly recently - possibly during some transport. Apparently, the tang had already an old crack through more than 2 thirds of its diameter: Sorrily, not much force needed to break it off completely...

Anyone have any experience in having the a tang reweld. My concern would be, adding extra material to the tang and not being able to fit it thru the hole of the ganja.

The battle-tested Moro method would call for serious stock removal from the blade as well as gangya - I don't think this is really called for with such a great twist core blade. Rewelding tangs is fairly regularly done with Indonesian keris: If you're willing to temporarely remove the gangya, I believe this shouldn't pose a serious problem for an experienced bladesmith to replace the tang and refile its shape so that the gangya can be snugly reattached again. This should hold perfectly well but won't be stable enough for real use, I guess.

Regards,
Kai

[kino]

Thanks Kai. I'll show the broken tang to the local knife maker to see if he's
up to the job.

[Bill M]

Just realized I had been too busy drooling over this thread to post!!!!

Great score Albert, and a really deserving guy to get these fine pieces.



I have head that an epoxy called “JB Weld” has been successfully used in repairing metal.

I have not used this, but have friends in ancient weapon collecting who have been very pleased by the results. Of course it won’t stand up to battle standards, but it might be good enough for display and normal handling.

If it does not work, you could then try a blacksmith. I try to disturb old metal as little as possible.

http://jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php

Has anyone here used it?

[kino]

Thanks Bill, I will keep this in mind. I don't want to rush things. The Kris is going nowhere fast. I'm not going to be doing some test cutting with the sword either.

[David]

Originally Posted by Bill Marsh

I have head that an epoxy called “JB Weld” has been successfully used in repairing metal.

I have not used this, but have friends in ancient weapon collecting who have been very pleased by the results. Of course it won’t stand up to battle standards, but it might be good enough for display and normal handling.

If it does not work, you could then try a blacksmith. I try to disturb old metal as little as possible.

http://jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php

Has anyone here used it?

Bill, i have used JB Weld to repair a broken gonjo and it worked just fine...but i don't think i would use it in a situation like this unless i planned never to draw the blade from the sheath again. I am not convince it would hold all that weight that well.

[Battara]

Albert, I bow in your presence!

[VANDOO]

SOMEHOW I MISSED THIS POST THE FIRST TIME AROUND , SO BELATED CONGRADULATIONS!!

IT ALWAYS WARMS THE COCKELS OF MY HEART TO SEE A COLLECTOR GET ANOTHER COLLECTORS COLLECTION INTACT. A COLLECTION OF THIS TYPE REPRESENTS A LOT OF TIME, STUDY,WORK, MONEY AND LUCK TO PUT TOGETHER SO IT IS SORT OF LIKE A LIFES WORK. SO IT IS ESPECIALLY GOOD IF ANOTHER COLLECTOR CAN PICK IT UP AND CONTINUE TO ADD TO IT AND REFINE IT AS HIS LIFES WORK BEFORE PASSING ON THE COLLECTION FOR THE NEXT LAP OF THE RELAY.

OFTEN SUCH COLLECTIONS ARE BROKEN UP AND SOLD PIECEMEAL AND ALL THE INFORMATION AND WORK THAT WENT INTO MAKING IT IS LOST. IN THIS CASE THE COLLECTION OR AT LEAST A PART OF IT HAS REMAINED INTACT, UNFORTUNATELY ANY RECORDS ON WHERE AND WHEN THESE ITEMS WERE AQUIRED AND ANY OF THE HISTORY OF THE COLLECTOR WHO PUT IT TOGETHER IS USUALLY LOST. IF SUCH RECORDS EXHIST THEY USUALLY DON'T STAY WITH THE COLLECTION AND PROBABLY END UP IN THE DUST BIN.

THE BIGGEST PROBLEM I SEE WITH REPARING THE BROKEN KRIS TANG WILL BE REMOVING THE BROKEN PIECE FROM THE HANDLE WITHOUT DAMMAGING IT. IF YOU CAN SOMEHOW HEAT IT UP AND GET AHOLD OF IT AND PULL IT OUT WITHOUT DAMMAGE AND THEN HAVE IT ATTACHED BY A PRO THAT WOULD BE THE BEST WAY. IF IT IS IMPOSSIBLE TO REMOVE ANOTHER WAY TO FIX IT WOULD BE TO DRILL 3 SMALL HOLES IN THE BROKEN ENDS (MAKE SURE THEY LINE UP SO THE BLADE WILL FIT TOGETHER SNUG AND IN LINE. THEN PUT IN 3 PINS WITH EPOXY (CLEAN ANY EXCESS) AND LET THEM SET THEN CHECK TO MAKE SURE THE BLADE LINES UP RIGHT AND IF NOT MAKE ADJUSTMENTS BY CUTTING DOWN THE PINS OR DRILLING A BIT MORE. WHEN ALL LINES UP EPOXY THE BLADE TOGETHER AND PUT A CLAMP IF POSSIBLE TO HOLD UNTIL IT DRYS. THIS WOULD ATTACH THE TWO PIECES TOGETHER BUT WOULD BE A FRAGILE REPAIR AS THE PINS WILL BE VERY SMALL SO CARE WOULD HAVE TO BE TAKEN WHEN HANDELING THE ITEM IN FUTURE. I WOULD NOT USE J/B WELD AS IT IS THE COLOR OF SILVER PAINT AND CAN MAKE A MESS THAT IS DIFFICULT TO CLEAN UP OR REMOVE. THE SAFEST WAY WOULD BE TO JUST LAY IT IN A NICE PADDED CASE AND IT WOULD LOOK TO BE IN ONE PIECE SO ITS BEAUTY COULD STILL BE ENJOYED.
I ALSO BOW IN YOUR DIRECTION, YOU THE MAN

[Spunjer]

yo kino, have you fixed the krises yet???

[kino]

Got it repaired in April, the broken tang was not worth saving so it was replaced.
A brief summary of how it was repaired:
The way I restored it, I believe it's probably.stronger than the original tang was, I used a tungsten-carbide drill to drill two holes into the base area along the center line of the broken tang, to about 1/2 inch deep, then used two high strength, same size "Drill Rod" pins to run down into those two holes, and let them extend out of the broken area and into two matching holes that I drilled up into the new tang about one inch deep, then slid them together and glued all the parts in place with J.B.Weld. The J.B. Weld is good up to about 600 degrees, but each time it gets near there, it looses some of it's strength. I can use a low melt temp. epoxy to set the handle in place, if that's OK with you, and by doing that, heaven forbid, we will be able to remove the hilt if you ever need to sometime down the line.

I was very pleased with the outcome. Here are some photos.
Thanks for asking.

[Rick]

Nicely done !

[Sajen]

Great repair!

[Battara]

What a nice job and nice piece now.