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#1 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Michigan, U.S.A.
Posts: 108
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This 13-luk keris just arrived from a dealer in Singapore. The Pendok (Hey! I'm learning a new language) got damaged in transit or during packing but I do like the blade.
After reading the previous post on an interesting keris from auk I wonder if I will ever know anything about this field. Well, my excuse around the house is that, at my age I need to get the brain learning new things. So here it is. I am told it is a "keris Jawa Timur Luk 13 Pelet", 19th century. I can see it has 13, or 11 depending on how one counts, waves but beyond that I am in darkness. The pamor was said to be in the melon's skin variation (kulit semangko) It is covered with a fragrant oil & came with two small containers of oil, which I presume has traditional significance but know no further. Except not to lick the blade. So, gentlemen, what might your comments be? Whatever it is, I am pleased with it. |
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#2 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 238
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Congratulations for your new keris. I agree with most of what you've already said, except that from your photos the blade appear like modern blade to me (last 20 c. or even early 21 c.)-- please keep in mind this is just my personal opinion. I like the blade for what it is. The fittings could have been better but I wouldn't change anything except the hilt ring which is Jogja/Central Java style (only if I got a chance/I wouldn't pursue a replacement).
For now I think you have better chances buying from your local market ![]() Last edited by tunggulametung; 26th September 2013 at 02:52 PM. |
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#3 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,740
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Hi James,
It is not the pendok (metal over sheath) which got damaged but the gandar (wooden stem). From the pictures the hilt appears of low quality (wood species and carvings). Best regards |
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#4 | |
Keris forum moderator
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 7,100
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Keris are generally maintained (fed) with fragrant oils. I would apply these oils whenever you blade starts to look too dry. |
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#5 | |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 238
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#6 | |
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Italy
Posts: 928
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#7 |
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,740
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Any detailed comment about the blade?
Regards |
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#8 | |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,740
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Regards |
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#9 | |
Keris forum moderator
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 7,100
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#10 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,740
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Hi David,
With a mineral oil base it should be OK as it is chemically stable ![]() Regards |
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#11 |
Keris forum moderator
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 7,100
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Yeah, i've seen coconut oil go rancid so i've always avoided it. Not sure what the oil base is that they sent to you James but it could well be coconut and you might want to make your own.
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#12 |
Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 6,857
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A good quality gun oil is without doubt superior for the purpose of retarding rust.
But --- the smell of gun oil is totally incorrect for any keris. I've used a mix of liquid parafin + synthetic sandalwood oil + natural kananga oil for about 40 years. I spray first with WD40, and let that dry off overnight, it leaves a slightly greasy deposit, then I apply the scented oil, and wrap the blade tightly in a plastic sleeve. I live 25 meters from a salt water lake. I have never had even the smallest problem with rust. The scented oils used in Jawa have coconut oil as a base and these do go rancid, leave an unpleasant smell and can build up a gunky residue. Brushing with mineral turpentine and drenching with WD40 will will clean this muck off without damage to the blade. |
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#13 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 238
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I think fragrances and spirituality has been linked one another forever.
I believe most of us bought our keris second hand so we don't have control to what has been used in the past. In Indonesia, you need to ask that you strictly don't want any oil to be applied when you hand your keris to others, eg. for repair, staining etc, otherwise most of the time (at least from my experience) it will come back generously oiled (seen as good gesture?), often with foreign interesting scent. Basically a very thin film of oil (traditional way), wax, or other (easily) removable protective substance on blade surface is what we want but on bare/unfinished wood like maybe the fact with all inner part of warangka, oil will generally create problem both for the wood and the blade in one way or another; depending on what oil has been used, how severe the wood has been saturated, how many portion of the blade exposed/touching to the warangka, how often you check/maintain the blade, is it stained (or blued) or not, other triggering factor like humidity, lighting condition, etc. Bare metal may also rust if exposed to bare wood (or even air) for prolonged period. Newly made warangka may use wood that has not been dry enough and remain so for a long time and may later pick up moisture from the air. I think most of us has seen that rust problem leading to worn surface/edges on keris blade is more pronounced in the areas where its touching the warangka and its surrounding, perhaps not because the oil itself but due to other factor like the wood absorbing the oil and left the blade unprotected?, other chemical reaction?. Anyone has a more scientific explanation to this? A plastic wrap like what Alan mention is very popular for newly stained keris done by those on the trade, it is very effective method for prolonged storage, especially if it is not on display/you have large collection. Happy oiling everyone ![]() |
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