Recipe for wood filler?

Atlantia · 15th December 2010, 03:32 PM

What do you guys use for filler on ethnic gunstocks if areas are missing or splits in old wood etc?
I've always made up my own rather than use a shop bought resin. Any recipes? I'm curious how others solve this problem without the results looking 'new'?

kahnjar1 · 15th December 2010, 05:23 PM

Hi Gene,
My collection now is basically, blades but at one time I had many guns. To repair/fill breaks etc I kept a supply of broken stock pieces and used suitable wood and colour to fill breaks. A useful way to "match" the colours is to use CONDYS (???spelling) CRYSTALS. Mix a VERY small amount of the crystals with water, which is all you will need. It drys brown and when dry, bone it with either a piece of smooth bone or even the round shank of a screwdriver. Amazing what it will hide in terms of new repairs. For broken horn or later plastic butt plates I used Epiglass Plastic Steel. Its black and when sanded and polished it does a great job.
With your current weather patterns be careful not to get wool fibres from your gloves mixed up with your repairs.

TVV · 15th December 2010, 05:36 PM

Gene,

I do not have many rifles and have not had to try it, but I have heard from a friend who has hundreds and according to him, the best way to do it is with sawdust and superglue. According to his instructions, you put a bit of sawdust in the area where the wood is missing, followed imemdiately by a drop of the super glue, which solidifies the small amount of sawdust in place. Then you repeat the process until the restoration is complete, and naturally, sand at the end. This would work on gunstocks that are of dark color (the glue turns the sawdust dark, regardless of its original color), and for small areas.

And to repeat my disclaimer - I have not actually tried it myself.

Regards,
Teodor

Ibrahiim al Balooshi · 1st January 2012, 11:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Atlantia

What do you guys use for filler on ethnic gunstocks if areas are missing or splits in old wood etc?
I've always made up my own rather than use a shop bought resin. Any recipes? I'm curious how others solve this problem without the results looking 'new'?

Salaams Atlantia~ I liked this little thread so much I just had to make a comment.
A friend of mine swears by the superglue and sawdust technique and I commend it and the other workshop practices to Forum.

Regards,
Ibrahiim.

AJ1356 · 1st January 2012, 12:11 PM

I've seen some superglue and dust fillings, they are pretty good, to untrained eye. The method is pretty good, but I think something other that crazy glue would be preffered at lease by me. Crazyglue leaves a somewhat shiney residue, and is a bit messy, so maybe some clear wood glue would be better, I dunno have not tried it.

Battara · 1st January 2012, 09:22 PM

I would think that epoxy would be a better filler than crazyglue.

fearn · 2nd January 2012, 06:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Battara

I would think that epoxy would be a better filler than crazyglue.

Problem with epoxy, especially if you mix it, is it's hard to get all the bubbles out. Crazy glue is a little easier to keep the bubbles out of.

F

Battara · 2nd January 2012, 07:47 PM

Never had problems with bubbles but whatever..............

harimauhk · 10th January 2012, 03:59 AM

We used PVA glue and sawdust in high school...worked a treat. more recently I've used superglue and sawdust with good results.

trenchwarfare · 25th January 2012, 11:56 PM

I use white glue. Elmers, Dollar General brand, doesn't matter. Remove the buttplate, lock, or whatever part is removable. "Borrow" some wood shavings/filings, and mix with the glue. Fill in the area missing wood, and let dry. The smoother you apply, the less sanding you have to do. By using wood from the affected gun, the color is an perfect match.

TimW · 26th January 2012, 06:40 PM

there is a filler available that is used to fill up holes in wooden floor boards. It is a transparant fluid (smells strongly / volitile). It needs to be mixed with sanding dust (saw dust is too coarse) and can be applied. The surface is slightly sanded afterwards. When using the same sanding dust as the original wood, the difference is hard to spot.

For smaller cracks i use superglue with our without sanding dust. Look for the fluid version that will soak in deeply and sand afterwards.

rickystl · 26th January 2012, 08:22 PM

Hi Gene! For filling fine cracks, I've found something that works better than Super/Crazy glue. It's called "ZAP" glue. There are a couple other competing Brands similar. They usually sell it at hobby stores. What I really like about this glue is that it is available in three different thicknesses. Thick, Medium, and Thin. Even the thick is fairly thin. The Thin is so thin, it seems to run thinner than water. I've even used the Thin in a hypodermic needle for very fine cracks to keep the crack from spreading. Use the Thin a little at a time. Let dry overnight and add more the next day, and so on till you are satisfied. Best stuff I've ever used for filling cracks. Rick.

Atlantia · 27th January 2012, 08:09 AM

Excellent thoughts and ideas everyone

Thanks to all of you

15th December 2010, 03:32 PM	#1
Atlantia Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: The Sharp end Posts: 2,928	Recipe for wood filler? What do you guys use for filler on ethnic gunstocks if areas are missing or splits in old wood etc? I've always made up my own rather than use a shop bought resin. Any recipes? I'm curious how others solve this problem without the results looking 'new'?

15th December 2010, 05:23 PM	#2
kahnjar1 Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: CHRISTCHURCH NEW ZEALAND Posts: 2,739	Hi Gene, My collection now is basically, blades but at one time I had many guns. To repair/fill breaks etc I kept a supply of broken stock pieces and used suitable wood and colour to fill breaks. A useful way to "match" the colours is to use CONDYS (???spelling) CRYSTALS. Mix a VERY small amount of the crystals with water, which is all you will need. It drys brown and when dry, bone it with either a piece of smooth bone or even the round shank of a screwdriver. Amazing what it will hide in terms of new repairs. For broken horn or later plastic butt plates I used Epiglass Plastic Steel. Its black and when sanded and polished it does a great job. With your current weather patterns be careful not to get wool fibres from your gloves mixed up with your repairs. Last edited by kahnjar1; 16th December 2010 at 06:16 AM.

15th December 2010, 05:36 PM	#3
TVV Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Bay Area Posts: 1,620	Gene, I do not have many rifles and have not had to try it, but I have heard from a friend who has hundreds and according to him, the best way to do it is with sawdust and superglue. According to his instructions, you put a bit of sawdust in the area where the wood is missing, followed imemdiately by a drop of the super glue, which solidifies the small amount of sawdust in place. Then you repeat the process until the restoration is complete, and naturally, sand at the end. This would work on gunstocks that are of dark color (the glue turns the sawdust dark, regardless of its original color), and for small areas. And to repeat my disclaimer - I have not actually tried it myself. Regards, Teodor

1st January 2012, 12:11 PM	#5
AJ1356 Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Nashville Posts: 314	I've seen some superglue and dust fillings, they are pretty good, to untrained eye. The method is pretty good, but I think something other that crazy glue would be preffered at lease by me. Crazyglue leaves a somewhat shiney residue, and is a bit messy, so maybe some clear wood glue would be better, I dunno have not tried it.

1st January 2012, 09:22 PM	#6
Battara EAAF Staff Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Louisville, KY Posts: 7,219	I would think that epoxy would be a better filler than crazyglue.

2nd January 2012, 07:47 PM	#8
Battara EAAF Staff Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Louisville, KY Posts: 7,219	Never had problems with bubbles but whatever..............

10th January 2012, 03:59 AM	#9
harimauhk Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Posts: 88	We used PVA glue and sawdust in high school...worked a treat. more recently I've used superglue and sawdust with good results.

25th January 2012, 11:56 PM	#10
trenchwarfare Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Posts: 385	I use white glue. Elmers, Dollar General brand, doesn't matter. Remove the buttplate, lock, or whatever part is removable. "Borrow" some wood shavings/filings, and mix with the glue. Fill in the area missing wood, and let dry. The smoother you apply, the less sanding you have to do. By using wood from the affected gun, the color is an perfect match.

26th January 2012, 06:40 PM	#11
TimW Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Posts: 54	there is a filler available that is used to fill up holes in wooden floor boards. It is a transparant fluid (smells strongly / volitile). It needs to be mixed with sanding dust (saw dust is too coarse) and can be applied. The surface is slightly sanded afterwards. When using the same sanding dust as the original wood, the difference is hard to spot. For smaller cracks i use superglue with our without sanding dust. Look for the fluid version that will soak in deeply and sand afterwards.

26th January 2012, 08:22 PM	#12
rickystl Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: St. Louis, MO area. Posts: 1,623	Hi Gene! For filling fine cracks, I've found something that works better than Super/Crazy glue. It's called "ZAP" glue. There are a couple other competing Brands similar. They usually sell it at hobby stores. What I really like about this glue is that it is available in three different thicknesses. Thick, Medium, and Thin. Even the thick is fairly thin. The Thin is so thin, it seems to run thinner than water. I've even used the Thin in a hypodermic needle for very fine cracks to keep the crack from spreading. Use the Thin a little at a time. Let dry overnight and add more the next day, and so on till you are satisfied. Best stuff I've ever used for filling cracks. Rick.

27th January 2012, 08:09 AM	#13
Atlantia Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: The Sharp end Posts: 2,928	Excellent thoughts and ideas everyone Thanks to all of you