16th February 2017, 12:57 PM | #61 | |
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The bigger the grains are, the lower the quality is. Every iron has this grain pattern but the graining of modern steel ist too small for human eyes. Such big crystals as in the middle of your sword are simply a sign of low quality steel. You should try another etchant to avoid this crystals. Roland |
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17th February 2017, 03:11 PM | #62 | |
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Thanks for the info Roland_M! |
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4th March 2017, 03:24 AM | #63 | |
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Thanks also for the reference photo! Regards, F. de Luzon |
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4th March 2017, 03:42 AM | #64 |
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Blade #6 To re-hilt or not to re-hilt?
With a blade length of 17.5 inches (44.5 cm) and the proportionate width, this kris is smaller than the others in my collection. The laminated blade has a separate gangya and is much older than the hilt. The pommel is some kind of hardened resin with a coin (American Era Philippines) dated 1944. It comes with a Maguindanao style scabbard.
Because the hilt is of low quality workmanship, I am contemplating on having it replaced. I also want a nice pommel to go with it. However, a part of me is saying to leave it as it is. Last edited by F. de Luzon; 4th March 2017 at 11:15 PM. |
4th March 2017, 04:04 PM | #65 |
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IMHO it looks fine the way it is. Changing the hilt is not needed as this would tamper with the sword's history and could even probably negatively affect the sword's balance if not done properly. Besides it looks like a kris meant for battle, with a hilt exactly meant for business so there is no need to dress it up with a different hilt.
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4th March 2017, 09:37 PM | #66 | |
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4th March 2017, 09:45 PM | #67 |
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I have to agree - leaving it alone might be best.
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4th March 2017, 09:46 PM | #68 |
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I agree with the above sentiments.
That sword is a splendid example just as it is! |
4th March 2017, 10:22 PM | #69 |
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Agree with all opinions so far. This is a fine old warrior with an authentic hilt.
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4th March 2017, 10:58 PM | #70 |
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Please leave the hilt on this piece as is. If it were extremely damaged or was something non traditional put on it by a U.S. serviceman or tourist after bringing it home I would agree that changing it to a more traditional hilt would be something to consider, but that is not the case with this. I totally agree that by replacing the hilt you would be taking away an important part of this swords history.
Best, Robert |
10th March 2017, 12:55 PM | #71 |
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Thank you all for your advice. I will leave the hilt as it is. I agree that this would be the wiser decision.
Kind regards to you all, F. de Luzon |
10th March 2017, 04:45 PM | #72 |
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Well, i guess you don't need one more fellow collector to say please don't change anything on this kris. I frankly don't understand collecting these items from history if the end goal it not to preserve that history, but to create some idealized alternative version of what the original piece we collected actually is. I am glad you have decide to listen to the part of you that just says "No".
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10th March 2017, 05:16 PM | #73 |
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I agree David. If it were missing pieces, that would be a different story.......
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19th May 2017, 09:05 AM | #74 |
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# 7 Twist Core "18th Century" Kalis
Number 7 in the collection is this twist core "18th Century" Moro kalis/kris with a 5 luk, 47.5 cm (18.75 inches) long blade. The total length of the blade and hilt is 59 cm (23.25 inches) and the wooden pommel is of the horse hoof motif. For more pictures and discussion please click on the link- http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showthread.php?t=22716
Last edited by F. de Luzon; 19th May 2017 at 09:19 AM. |
19th May 2017, 12:03 PM | #75 | |
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Hello Fernando,
I already commented on your newest acquisition in the dedicated thread. Here a late comment on the earlier small one: Quote:
Regards, Kai |
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19th May 2017, 03:11 PM | #76 | |
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24th May 2017, 09:13 AM | #77 |
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great collection
great collection you have there. i am curious on how you go about ethcing the whole length of the kris blade? i am planning on etching mine as well.
thank you. |
26th May 2017, 07:30 AM | #78 | |
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Thanks Pinoy Blade Hunter! I have a plastic drafting/drawing tube that I fill with sukang puti. It is long enough to immerse the blade up to the area near the gangya. I then brush vinegar on the exposed gangya from time to time. After a few minutes or hours (depending on the condition of the blade) I remove the blade from the tube and even out the etch by brushing more vinegar on the etch line and gangya. I then immerse it again if necessary, until I get the desired effect. It's important that you neutralize the blade by washing it with a baking soda slurry after etching. After washing off the slurry, I use WD 40 to protect the blade. Btw, I cover the hilt with cling wrap for protection. Kind regards, Fernando/ F. de Luzon |
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27th May 2017, 06:17 AM | #79 | |
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Do you have a place where you display your sword for public viewing? I would love to gaze upon that twist core piece up close. From malate manila here and i have been frequenting the antique shops in ermita lately. Drooling. Hahaha Thanks again. PBH |
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29th May 2017, 09:54 PM | #80 |
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This book may be of interest to the historically inclined amongst you.
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30th May 2017, 03:54 PM | #81 |
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Do you have a place where you display your sword for public viewing?
Hi PBH, I'll get in touch with you soon. A bit busy now. Thanks! Fernando |
30th May 2017, 04:00 PM | #82 | |
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Kind regards, Fernando |
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30th May 2017, 05:46 PM | #83 | |
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I found a copy in a bookstore by chance and selected it for my early summer reading, which I'm looking forward to. It's translated into English and edited by a J. S. Cummins and was published for the Hakluyt Society (1971). I'm glad to hear it's included as a school reading for students in Philippines. All the best. |
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