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#31 | |
Vikingsword Staff
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: The Aussie Bush
Posts: 4,167
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Ian. |
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#32 |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,252
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Hello Apolaki,
I doubt that the blade produces any really toxic fumes. It's most certainly not arsenic nor zink. (However, it is common sense not to sniff any fumes that smell bad, just to be sure...) Steel with higher carbon content stains darker. Hardened steel stains darker than the same steel unhardened, too. Also, both are corroding faster than mild/unhardened steel. The current state does not look that bad. In Jaw this would be fully acceptable (except for the splash of fresh rust which should be avoided by quick drying/oiling). For a Moro kris, the metal surface should preferably be more shiny. It's a fine line between too shiny and no laminations visible and too strong an etch with a dull surface which just needs some experience to achieve. And even experienced folks here will retry the process several times to obtain a better result. Regards, Kai |
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#33 | |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,252
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Hello Detlef,
Quote:
Hardly any harm done in this case - we all have seen much worse restoration attempts, I believe! Regards, Kai |
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#34 |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,252
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Hello Apolaki,
Please try to answer those questions raised in post #18. Regards, Kai |
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#35 | |
Vikingsword Staff
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: The Aussie Bush
Posts: 4,167
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One possibility might be hydrogen sulfide ("rotten egg gas") if there is any sulfur in the metal. I've not heard of this being a problem with acid etching of steel/iron. Perhaps others have some more information on that possibility. Otherwise, I think your term "rancid" probably covers what is happening here. Ian |
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#36 | ||
Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Germany, Dortmund
Posts: 8,731
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I have polished several moro blades with a much harder grade of corrosion without a bath in a vinegar or citric acid solution before, not one of this blades show until now new active corrosion. But in general I agree, it can't hurt! ![]() Quote:
![]() ![]() Yes, it's a little bit circuitous to polish a kris blade with attached hilt but for sure more easy as to dismantle a hilt and more to reattach it proper again IMVHO. Regards, Detlef |
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#37 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Germany, Dortmund
Posts: 8,731
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By this pictures (taken from Gustav) you can see, how a kris hilt is constructed in many cases and I think Apolakis kris hilt as well. When the brass bands get broken when you want to dismantle the hilt you need to open the binding and you have a difficult restore object. It can be done but only for experienced persons.
Regards, Detlef Last edited by Sajen; 16th February 2020 at 10:07 AM. Reason: add picture |
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#38 |
EAAF Staff
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 7,200
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Just a side note, Gustav's Moro hilt looks like it comes from Tawi-Tawi. Their hilts are made in this fashion.
Also Sajen is right - I've done a couple of Tawi-Tawi hilts before and it is a lot of work and time consuming. |
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#39 | |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Germany, Dortmund
Posts: 8,731
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The hilt I've shown again with Gustavs pictures missing it's back crest, see picture. How you would classify the complete kris? Regards, Detlef Last edited by Sajen; 17th February 2020 at 10:55 PM. |
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