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Old 18th January 2017, 07:04 PM   #1
Sajen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kai
Nice wood for sure!

IMVHO it may pay to "educate" them on traditional designs for such custom projects. Even if one prefers to keep the additional carving on the crosspiece, it would look much nicer if the base of the crosspiece was flush with the stem (at least in my book - sorry, I'm a stiffler for tradition, I guess ).



Wow, I'm glad that you rescued this kris - the blade did came out very nice!

Could you add some close-ups of the blade for getting a better glimpse on the laminations, please?

Regards,
Kai
Hi F. de Luzon,

second all comments from Kai. The wood is nice for sure, the carving well done but it would look much nicer to my eyes when it would have been done in traditional manner.

Best regards,
Detlef
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Old 22nd January 2017, 07:09 AM   #2
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Hello Kai and Detlef. I completely understand your preference for traditional design. I had this made in the style of the makers because the material used was non-traditional. I just wanted a scabbard made of kamagong (I really like this wood ) If ever I have another scabbard made, it will be as traditional as it can get.

Kai, attached is the photo you requested. Thank you both for your comments!

Regards,

F. de Luzon
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Old 26th January 2017, 10:44 AM   #3
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Default Re-etched #5

I re-etched #5 (http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showthread.php?t=22242) and a pattern emerged on the core. Did I over etch? It looks almost like glitter. I wonder if this was intended by its maker.
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Old 26th January 2017, 03:04 PM   #4
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de Luzon:

That's a very good etch that you achieved, and a very unusual pattern that emerged. It's hard to know if the creator of the blade intended it to have such an effect, but some of these guys were really talented at producing specific effects and it's quite possible that this was the intended outcome. Perhaps Roland or one of our other metallurgists can speak to the way this effect was created.

Ian.
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Old 26th January 2017, 08:33 PM   #5
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What you see is the microcrystalline structure of the metal. It get visible by the etchant you used. By an other etchant it wouldn't be visible like this.

Best regards,
Detlef
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Old 28th January 2017, 03:18 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sajen
What you see is the microcrystalline structure of the metal. It get visible by the etchant you used. By an other etchant it wouldn't be visible like this.

Best regards,
Detlef

Thanks for your comments, Ian and Detlef!

Detlef, I used white cane vinegar (sukang puti) to etch the blade. I was just trying to make the contrast stronger between the metals when the pattern emerged. I felt like I was looking at stars when I wiped off the oxidized metal because of the way it sparkled. But I was also concerned that I may have ruined the blade. Anyway, it looks so much better in person.

F. de Luzon
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Old 28th January 2017, 09:57 AM   #7
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I agree that the etch seems perfectly ok - you often see these crystalline structures once the polish is done nicely and the etching accentuates the details of the clean metal surface.

I prefer to use industrial acetic acid because its strength is exactly known and can be diluted for routine use (more reproducible). The advantage of AA being volatile is that it can be completely removed via heating the blade and that it tends to also work on rust in crevices (it helps long-term preservation to remove all active rust). This can lead to some porosity of the blade and you start to see this with the narrow pamor band on each side. IMHO this is not a problem but I'd avoid to etch more (repolishing and re-etching are always an option if the surface gets too rough from over-etching). After a thorough oiling, you can go for sealing with microcristalline wax (which can also be used to close the larger pores if deemed preferable).

Regards,
Kai
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Old 28th January 2017, 01:32 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F. de Luzon
But I was also concerned that I may have ruined the blade. Anyway, it looks so much better in person.
Hi F. d. Luzon,

don't worry, the outcome is very nice, the blade isn't ruined but look much better as before. It's a nice piece and you have given it the best care!

Regards,
Detlef
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Old 16th February 2017, 12:57 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F. de Luzon
I re-etched #5 (http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showthread.php?t=22242) and a pattern emerged on the core. Did I over etch? It looks almost like glitter. I wonder if this was intended by its maker.
What you can see there is as Detlef said the so called grain boundary: "A grain boundary is the interface between two grains, or crystallites, in a polycrystalline material. Grain boundaries are 2D defects in the crystal structure, and tend to decrease the electrical and thermal conductivity of the material."

The bigger the grains are, the lower the quality is. Every iron has this grain pattern but the graining of modern steel ist too small for human eyes.

Such big crystals as in the middle of your sword are simply a sign of low quality steel.

You should try another etchant to avoid this crystals.


Roland
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Old 17th February 2017, 03:11 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roland_M
What you can see there is as Detlef said the so called grain boundary: "A grain boundary is the interface between two grains, or crystallites, in a polycrystalline material. Grain boundaries are 2D defects in the crystal structure, and tend to decrease the electrical and thermal conductivity of the material."

The bigger the grains are, the lower the quality is. Every iron has this grain pattern but the graining of modern steel ist too small for human eyes.

Such big crystals as in the middle of your sword are simply a sign of low quality steel.

You should try another etchant to avoid this crystals.


Roland


Thanks for the info Roland_M!
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