New Rencong Meucannge comments and advice

[russel]

The second Rencong to fall into my custodianship arrived the other day. I picked it up cheaply as it was incorrectly listed. My heart raced as I opened the parcel. Joy soon turned to sorrow, expletives and tears when I saw that the Meucannge Hulu had snapped in transit!

I was/am devastated. Other than the absence of a sheath (sarung?) the piece was in near perfect condition (by my humble standards). The seller had packed it as if he was moving it across the room instead of the planet! He was a lovely guy though, equally upset by his oversight, and gave me a partial refund. He also offered me first dibs on anything he finds in the future which is nice.

I would appreciate any general thoughts and comments about this rencong: age, quality, origin &c. I am still very much a novice collector, and I am hungry for knowledge.

How would you go about repairing the break? As you can see from the photos, the break is very clean and can hardly be seen when placed together. Another collector has suggested CA (superglue), but I am somewhat hesitant to do anything without more advice.

As I would like the repair to be functional as well as aesthetic, perhaps I should incorporate a retaining pin of some kind to add strength (I have seen a similar repair online). If so, what pin material? Brass, stainless, wood, water buffalo horn? What glue/resin? Any advice on techniques/pitfalls? I am no craftsman, but I have friends to help me.

Importantly, can someone tell me if the macro image of the break is showing the natural broken surface of the horn? It looks very "shiny" to me, I was wondering if I am seeing the residue of an old repair.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts, this is a great community.

Cheers, Russel.

[russel]

Here is a portion of the seller's photo. On closer inspection I think I can see a repair (or crack at least) in the right location.

Also, a screen grab of a Rencong repair using a pin.

[Battara]

I would use water buffalo horn or hard wood and epoxy (carefully).

[A. G. Maisey]

In the centre of the break on the side still attached to the blade, drill a very small hole about 3mm. or 4mm. deep; the hole should not exceed 1/16" and be sufficient in size to take a small metal pin as a gentle press fit. A section of panel pin is about the right size pin.You can buy very small drill bits from a jewellers supply house.

Fit the metal pin to the hole and then locate precisely in the corresponding centre of the free piece of the hilt, again using a small press fit hole.

Test the meeting of the break edges, if they do not meet precisely the holes can be enlarged a couple of thou to permit meeting.

Clean both surfaces of the break thoroughly with acetone.

Assemble using 5 minute Araldite hand held in place until the Araldite sets. Ensure the Araldite is in the pin holes. It is best to tint the Araldite with black artists powder --- a very small quantity goes a very long way.

Remove the excess adhesive with a pointed bamboo skewer after the Araldite has set but before it cures.

Wait until the Araldite cures before doing any further work.

It is unlikely that you will get a perfect neat meeting of the break edges, no matter how hard you try, so be prepared to even up the meeting point of the break, probably by only a couple of thou if you have been careful.

Retint the area that you have cleaned up to match the rest of the hilt.

This repair can be done without the metal pin, which is easier but is not as strong. With the pin it will be as strong as it was before the break.

[Sajen]

I personally would be careful to use a pin, you need to drill two holes in both parts and this holes have to match exactly otherwise the repair will be visible. Why not try superglue? When it is not strong enough you still can look for other options.

Regards,

Detlef

[A. G. Maisey]

Detlef, I have done this repair on hilts more times than I can remember, mostly keris hilts, but also a couple of rencongs and more than a few assorted knives. I have also done similar repairs on statuary and furniture.

It does require care, and it does require precision.

If the alignment of the pins is out by a few thousandths of an inch you simply enlarge the hole a little and fill with the adhesive, which when set is at least as strong as most hilt materials. A small misalignment can be hidden by recarve and stain.

Superglue will work, and superglue is what would be used in Indonesia --- well, not super glue exactly, but a similar product called Alteco. The problem with super glue is that it dries out after a few years and the joint comes adrift. If all you want to do is to recycle something on ebay, or sell out of a warung in some market in Jawa you use super glue. If you want a joint with integrity that will outlast you , you do a tradesman like job.

[Rick]

Possibly one might apply a very tiny drop of say, acrylic artist's paint or some substance that will leave a mark to the center of one part .
Then carefully and very lightly press the parts together in the proper aligned position .
Pull them apart and you will have, at least a rough idea from the residue of where to drill on each part .

Yeah, there was a previously repaired/restored break in that spot .

[Battara]

I agree with Alan, although I was thinking of water buffalo horn or strong wood. A metal pin will do to. I would use the epoxy instead of superglue for the reasons Alan mentions and for another reason - superglue does not fill in gaps.

[Sajen]

Originally Posted by A. G. Maisey

Detlef, I have done this repair on hilts more times than I can remember, mostly keris hilts, but also a couple of rencongs and more than a few assorted knives. I have also done similar repairs on statuary and furniture.

It does require care, and it does require precision.

If the alignment of the pins is out by a few thousandths of an inch you simply enlarge the hole a little and fill with the adhesive, which when set is at least as strong as most hilt materials. A small misalignment can be hidden by recarve and stain.

Superglue will work, and superglue is what would be used in Indonesia --- well, not super glue exactly, but a similar product called Alteco. The problem with super glue is that it dries out after a few years and the joint comes adrift. If all you want to do is to recycle something on ebay, or sell out of a warung in some market in Jawa you use super glue. If you want a joint with integrity that will outlast you , you do a tradesman like job.

Hello Alan,

yes, I have done similar repairs in the same way you have described but have seen repairs which was done unprofessional and I have had a lot of work to open the break again to restore it in a better way. When someone is unused by repairs like this there is a big risk that the repair look ugly so my suggestion to use superglue. But I wasn't aware that the superglue dries out and the joint will come adrift. Anyway, agree complete with you, the way of repair you have described is the professional way.

Regards,

Detlef

[kai]

Hello Russel,

Looks like a good 19th century rencong.

I'm pretty sure that the break is old and got glued already.

As I would like the repair to be functional as well as aesthetic, perhaps I should incorporate a retaining pin of some kind to add strength

With the rather thin hilt part, this repair is not easy to do but you'll need a (metal) pin, indeed, and work very carefully.

However, before you start with the repair work, make sure to remove all old glue! The probably best way would be to have both surfaces touching a damp towel for several hours (possibly up to days) until the glue softens and gets whitish, then carefully clean off all glue with needles and forceps; afterwards let the horn dry slowly and let all pieces equilibrate for several days in a well-ventilated place with as little fluctuating humidity as possible.

Regards,
Kai

[russel]

Thanks everyone. Lots of great advice. I certainly won't be rushing things. I have a skilled taxidermist friend who may be a great help.

I'll post images of the finished repair.

Thanks again,
Russel