Jambiya restoration Take 2

FenrisWolf · 20th February 2007, 11:20 PM

Well, the process is proceeding. First attempt at bringing up the pattern produced mixed results. The ferric chloride solution was effective (2 Tsp. powder/8 oz. water), but I picked up spring water by mistake, and the predicted brown staining occured. I also didn't have a large enough pan to immerse the blade completely, and the method I used with the lime juice (cotton swabs) equalled a spotty finish. Here's the results:

My plan now is to attempt to use crocus cloth to buff out the brown; failing that, taking it back to 600 aluminum oxide wet/dry followed by the crocus. Once the blade is prepped I'll mix a larger batch of soultion, this time with DISTILLED water, and make sure I have some way to immerse the blade completely. New photos will follow the next attempt.

Gt Obach · 21st February 2007, 02:27 AM

the distilled water is a good idea.... and keep your etch time abit shorter...

-- you must dry the blade immediately after pulling from the etch..... or rust will instantly be there..... use a drying agent to speed it up... such as methyl alcohol ...wipe it on as soon as you pull from the etch.....
-- that staining you see will be very hard to remove...

i'd start over... the 600 to 1000 grit is a good idea... and don't burnish the steel

lots of fun this repolishing..

Greg

DaveS · 21st February 2007, 03:55 AM

Iv'e etched many, many blades, both wootz and layered steel. My experience with ferric chloride has been that no matter what, it will give a slightly greenish-brown tinge to the steel. Wether this is due to the acid possibly containing some compound of chlorine i do not know. Try using phosphoric acid. It goes under the name "metal etch" at Orchard Supply Hardware. I have used it for many years on layered steel such as on moro swords, and i feel it gives a MUCH better etch and is easier to use. You don't even need to dilute it AT ALL!!!!!!. It has the added advantage of not turning silver black as ferric chloride does. Normally i etch wootz with ferric, but the last few times i have etched wootz with phosphoric with outstanding results. Also i have never had any problems using plain tap water, but that might have something to do with the minerals that occur naturally in the water, and would vary from area to area. As someone just stated, you do want to dry the blade as quickly as possible because as you have seen it starts to rust instantly...........Dave

DaveS · 21st February 2007, 04:11 AM

I forgot to add that i use a resin brush to apply the acid, brushing it on one side and then turning the blade and brushing it on the other side. Keep turning and brushing and observing the blade until you get the desired amount of color change. Iv,e also found that when you start to apply the acid that you get both sides wet quickly and keep them wet until you rinse the blade. Another way you can get a little more contrast especially on layered steel is to very carefully heat the blade evenly with a propane torch. It just needs to be heated just enough to open the pores in the steel. Done correctly, you will have a beautiful contrast between the high and low carbon areas. The acid will sometimes smoke a little bit but this does not effect the quality of the etch..............Dave

spiral · 24th February 2007, 12:30 AM

Dave, what percentage phosphoric acid. Is "metal etch" ?

I can get 81% phosphoric acid localy but I think that may be rather to strong?

Spiral

20th February 2007, 11:20 PM	#1
FenrisWolf Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 181	Jambiya restoration Take 2 Well, the process is proceeding. First attempt at bringing up the pattern produced mixed results. The ferric chloride solution was effective (2 Tsp. powder/8 oz. water), but I picked up spring water by mistake, and the predicted brown staining occured. I also didn't have a large enough pan to immerse the blade completely, and the method I used with the lime juice (cotton swabs) equalled a spotty finish. Here's the results: My plan now is to attempt to use crocus cloth to buff out the brown; failing that, taking it back to 600 aluminum oxide wet/dry followed by the crocus. Once the blade is prepped I'll mix a larger batch of soultion, this time with DISTILLED water, and make sure I have some way to immerse the blade completely. New photos will follow the next attempt.

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21st February 2007, 02:27 AM	#2
Gt Obach Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 116	the distilled water is a good idea.... and keep your etch time abit shorter... -- you must dry the blade immediately after pulling from the etch..... or rust will instantly be there..... use a drying agent to speed it up... such as methyl alcohol ...wipe it on as soon as you pull from the etch..... -- that staining you see will be very hard to remove... i'd start over... the 600 to 1000 grit is a good idea... and don't burnish the steel lots of fun this repolishing.. Greg

21st February 2007, 03:55 AM	#3
DaveS Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 327	Iv'e etched many, many blades, both wootz and layered steel. My experience with ferric chloride has been that no matter what, it will give a slightly greenish-brown tinge to the steel. Wether this is due to the acid possibly containing some compound of chlorine i do not know. Try using phosphoric acid. It goes under the name "metal etch" at Orchard Supply Hardware. I have used it for many years on layered steel such as on moro swords, and i feel it gives a MUCH better etch and is easier to use. You don't even need to dilute it AT ALL!!!!!!. It has the added advantage of not turning silver black as ferric chloride does. Normally i etch wootz with ferric, but the last few times i have etched wootz with phosphoric with outstanding results. Also i have never had any problems using plain tap water, but that might have something to do with the minerals that occur naturally in the water, and would vary from area to area. As someone just stated, you do want to dry the blade as quickly as possible because as you have seen it starts to rust instantly...........Dave

21st February 2007, 04:11 AM	#4
DaveS Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 327	I forgot to add that i use a resin brush to apply the acid, brushing it on one side and then turning the blade and brushing it on the other side. Keep turning and brushing and observing the blade until you get the desired amount of color change. Iv,e also found that when you start to apply the acid that you get both sides wet quickly and keep them wet until you rinse the blade. Another way you can get a little more contrast especially on layered steel is to very carefully heat the blade evenly with a propane torch. It just needs to be heated just enough to open the pores in the steel. Done correctly, you will have a beautiful contrast between the high and low carbon areas. The acid will sometimes smoke a little bit but this does not effect the quality of the etch..............Dave

24th February 2007, 12:30 AM	#5
spiral Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 1,712	Dave, what percentage phosphoric acid. Is "metal etch" ? I can get 81% phosphoric acid localy but I think that may be rather to strong? Spiral