What kind of oil do you use for your blades?

Dimasalang · 27th November 2009, 06:25 PM

One thing to really keep in mind about linseed, it is not that great if you are restoring "decorative" wood. For instance, bunti wood with the nice grain on a barong that really stands out. In the wood working world, linseed is not that great for getting the grain to pop, reflect, stand out, glow, or give that 3D effect(chatoyance). You will still see the different grain sections, but it will be dull and not stand or pop out. Many wood workers have their own techniques and can use different methods to get grain to pop..it is like an art form. It is difficult to do since nearly all wood(even if the same type) can behave differently to the same techniques. Most popping techniques involve shellac and sealers. And I have heard some wood workers using Chromium Trioxide, which is a highly cancerous chemical, just to make the grains stand out(not a good idea IMO if you are always handling the wood). Down side of all this, these popping grain finishes typically do not last long ...a good 10 years and the pop will be fading; and the shellac or sealer can make it look extremely cloudy.
So, I guess it all boils down to what you want or have, and what you want to do with it. Bunti wood is very attract wood and can be just as decorative as curly maple...which is why I believe the Moros used the wood. For historical pieces I have or will acquire, I would use linseed. If I was restoring a piece and more interested in making it look nice and stand out, then linseed may not be a good idea.

A barong I have that had the handle refinished where the grain pops.

A. G. Maisey · 28th November 2009, 03:51 AM

Yes, a hand rubbed oil finish is more subdued than a french polished finish, or any of the other variations that are used now. I am not a woodworker, even though I have made a number of custom rifle stocks, but my father was a fine art cabinet maker, and others in his family were the same trade. A normal french polish used to be the bench mark for a fine furniture finish, and if done correctly, this will highlight anything that a grain has to offer.

The old English stock finishes were, as previously mentioned, hand rubbed oil finishes, and although these will blind you with reflected light, for a connoisseur this has long been regarded as the finish of choice. The grain is still there, it is still chatoyant, but you require taste and education to appreciate it, rather than the bling that is a factor in a fine french polish, and that anybody can see and appreciate.

clockwork · 28th November 2009, 04:20 AM

I have use clove oil on my blades with good results and it smells good LOL

Nathaniel · 27th February 2017, 04:51 AM

Hello all. Just thought I would repost this thread and see if anyone had anything new to add

kahnjar1 · 27th February 2017, 05:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nathaniel

Hello all. Just thought I would repost this thread and see if anyone had anything new to add

Hi Nat,
Most seems to be covered already, but here's one we used years ago when using (particularly) guns for hunting in wet/damp conditions. 50/50 gun oil and Vaseline. Heat slightly to liquify the Vaseline and mix thoroughly. Doubles as a lubricant and waterproofer. Perhaps not so suitable for blades but excellent for keeping rust off guns.
Stu

kronckew · 27th February 2017, 09:29 AM

still using ballistol here.

or BLO on wood. LO is actually flax seed oil, flax fibre=linen.

be careful, most commercial BLO uses chemical additives, usually metallic oxides and salts to get the quick drying effect rather than spending all that time required if it is actually boiled. it's poisonous, so don't hand rub with it. i found some proper actually 'boiled' blo at my local hardware store, they also happen to be the local undertaker and coffin maker. (small town

)

Bob A · 2nd March 2017, 05:01 AM

For what it may be worth, I have used a product called Eezox on some metal items. It is both a solvent and a rust inhibitor. For red surface rust, and as a protection for some blades, I've found that cleaning with eezox and a stainless steel ribbon sponge, sold as "scrub buds", will remove light rust without damaging the surface finish, for example the bluing on firearms. Several applications, wiped with an absorbent rag, will leave red-brown staining on the rag, until the rust is minimised. I leave eezox on the surface to dry, where it forms a protective barrier against further oxidation. Once everything has dried, an application of renaissance wax serves as additional protection.

Obviously there are objects for which this is inappropriate. That said, I've found blades and firearms so treated have remained protected for more than a few years, admittedly in a reasonably controlled environment.

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27th November 2009, 06:25 PM	#1
Dimasalang Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 264	One thing to really keep in mind about linseed, it is not that great if you are restoring "decorative" wood. For instance, bunti wood with the nice grain on a barong that really stands out. In the wood working world, linseed is not that great for getting the grain to pop, reflect, stand out, glow, or give that 3D effect(chatoyance). You will still see the different grain sections, but it will be dull and not stand or pop out. Many wood workers have their own techniques and can use different methods to get grain to pop..it is like an art form. It is difficult to do since nearly all wood(even if the same type) can behave differently to the same techniques. Most popping techniques involve shellac and sealers. And I have heard some wood workers using Chromium Trioxide, which is a highly cancerous chemical, just to make the grains stand out(not a good idea IMO if you are always handling the wood). Down side of all this, these popping grain finishes typically do not last long ...a good 10 years and the pop will be fading; and the shellac or sealer can make it look extremely cloudy. So, I guess it all boils down to what you want or have, and what you want to do with it. Bunti wood is very attract wood and can be just as decorative as curly maple...which is why I believe the Moros used the wood. For historical pieces I have or will acquire, I would use linseed. If I was restoring a piece and more interested in making it look nice and stand out, then linseed may not be a good idea. A barong I have that had the handle refinished where the grain pops.

28th November 2009, 03:51 AM	#2
A. G. Maisey Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 7,048	Yes, a hand rubbed oil finish is more subdued than a french polished finish, or any of the other variations that are used now. I am not a woodworker, even though I have made a number of custom rifle stocks, but my father was a fine art cabinet maker, and others in his family were the same trade. A normal french polish used to be the bench mark for a fine furniture finish, and if done correctly, this will highlight anything that a grain has to offer. The old English stock finishes were, as previously mentioned, hand rubbed oil finishes, and although these will blind you with reflected light, for a connoisseur this has long been regarded as the finish of choice. The grain is still there, it is still chatoyant, but you require taste and education to appreciate it, rather than the bling that is a factor in a fine french polish, and that anybody can see and appreciate.

28th November 2009, 04:20 AM	#3
clockwork Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 96	I have use clove oil on my blades with good results and it smells good LOL

27th February 2017, 04:51 AM	#4
Nathaniel Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Posts: 865	Hello all. Just thought I would repost this thread and see if anyone had anything new to add

27th February 2017, 09:29 AM	#6
kronckew Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Room 101, Glos. UK Posts: 4,238	still using ballistol here. or BLO on wood. LO is actually flax seed oil, flax fibre=linen. be careful, most commercial BLO uses chemical additives, usually metallic oxides and salts to get the quick drying effect rather than spending all that time required if it is actually boiled. it's poisonous, so don't hand rub with it. i found some proper actually 'boiled' blo at my local hardware store, they also happen to be the local undertaker and coffin maker. (small town )

2nd March 2017, 05:01 AM	#7
Bob A Member Join Date: Feb 2014 Posts: 439	For what it may be worth, I have used a product called Eezox on some metal items. It is both a solvent and a rust inhibitor. For red surface rust, and as a protection for some blades, I've found that cleaning with eezox and a stainless steel ribbon sponge, sold as "scrub buds", will remove light rust without damaging the surface finish, for example the bluing on firearms. Several applications, wiped with an absorbent rag, will leave red-brown staining on the rag, until the rust is minimised. I leave eezox on the surface to dry, where it forms a protective barrier against further oxidation. Once everything has dried, an application of renaissance wax serves as additional protection. Obviously there are objects for which this is inappropriate. That said, I've found blades and firearms so treated have remained protected for more than a few years, admittedly in a reasonably controlled environment.