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#1 |
Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: between work and sleep
Posts: 731
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My progress so far:
Here's the blade is better lighting... took some measurements... ![]() Make rough sketches of the handle on wood... ![]() Saw, chisel, hatchet, and hammer: rough shape of hilt... ![]() but I broke the guard when I chiseled too aggressively... In any case this is poplar wood, so not extremely strong nor suitable for the kampilan I think, but good practice for me anyhow... What would the "appropriate" wood be? Kamagong? Amboyna? Ebony? Those harder woods are probably expensive and even harder to carve... ![]() Thoughts? |
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#2 |
(deceased)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: OKLAHOMA, USA
Posts: 3,138
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THE INFORMATION I HAVE ON THE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN PHILIPPINE MORO AND BORNEO KAMPILIANS POINTS TO THOSE FROM BORNEO HAVING SHORTER JAWS. SEE TWO EXAMPLES. PHILIPPINE MAHOGANY WOULD BE A GOOD WOOD AS IT DOESN'T SPLIT WHEN WET SO WOULD FARE WELL IN A SALTWATER ENVIRONMENT.
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#3 | |
Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Manila, Phils.
Posts: 1,042
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![]() Quote:
This kampilan sketch, captioned as "Kampilan Illanoon", appeared in Edward Belcher's Narrative of the voyage of HMS Samarang (1848). I've earlier blogged about the topic here and here. Thanks. |
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#4 | |
EAAF Staff
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 7,272
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![]() Quote:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pterocarpus Macassar ebony is kamagong, but to get a completely dark piece is difficult, expensive, and even harder than all the rest. I would suggest walnut or padauk - neither are endangered (padauk in the US is from Africa, narra from Southeast Asia is endangered at present). |
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#5 |
Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: between work and sleep
Posts: 731
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Sounds good, time for me to go shopping for pieces of padauk...
![]() In the meantime, continuing practice on the poplar wood "dummy" handle... |
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#6 |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 119
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Surprisingly I have a personal kampilan trainer I am making the handle from Padauk as well. It can be a little challenging but near as difficult as some other hardwoods.
Be sure to use a respirator or at least a dust mask. I've been told the Padauk dust is very carcinogenic. It take a glorious color with just a simple poly seal. http://s795.photobucket.com/albums/y...t=DSC04818.jpg |
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#7 | |
EAAF Staff
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 7,272
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![]() Quote:
![]() And yes a little difficult to carve, but much easier than kamagong (macassar ebony) or ebony. |
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#8 | ||
Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: between work and sleep
Posts: 731
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![]() Quote:
Quote:
![]() ![]() I assume the same precautions as cocobolo... face-mask, ventilation, etc. |
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#9 | |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 119
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![]() Quote:
![]() In general the denser the wood, the heavier it is of course When doing my personal aluminum trainers I prefer to get the balance just right. Purpleheart is nice as is Narra. Dark Walnut has a nice balance of weight, density and yet is workable. ![]() http://s795.photobucket.com/albums/y...t=DSC06778.jpg |
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#10 |
EAAF Staff
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 7,272
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I use padauk because it looks like the inner part of the narra tree (again a part of the narra tree family) and walnut because it looks like the outer part of the narra tree.
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